How to break in FI Stroker
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Miami/Tampa
How to break in FI Stroker I have a 383 cu 9:1 compression ls6 being finished thursday. It has a D1 blower, 6.0 liter heads, LT's, motron 60lb, ect. The shop is recommending putting on a base tune, driving it extremely easy for the first thousand miles, performing the periodic oil changes, and then bringing it back to the shop for an agressive tune. I am wondering if the motor is supposed to see any certain rpms or throttle during the initial break in, and if so what rpm and % throttle? Also, keep in mind the blower has a 12 lb pulley on it and the motor will not be completely tuned, which would make me think that any high-throttle accelerations would be a bad idea (Seeing boost with no real fuel curve tuned in). Thoughts? 
With a new motor you are supposed to vary the rpm, but keep it low. Its a load and wash away situation with the metal surfaces and the oil. Its like a final machining process. What I do with a new motor is run it till warm on dino oil then change it, then run it with the same type oil to 500 miles varying the rpm to about no more than 2 or 3000 rpm. Then change the oil again with dino oil and varying the rpm to no more than 3500 or 4000 or so to 1000 miles, the whole time only light throttle. The key is no highway miles. Then tune it and run the dino oil to about 2000 or more miles then change to synthetic. If the part tune is accurate enough you can rev it with part throttle, ( very light, just enough to drive it.) to the rpms here and not hurt it.
I broke mine in without the blower but I would think if you stay out of boost and vary the rpm's you should be ok. I know some people heat cycle the springs then let loose. I wouldnt do it but to each is his own.
Originally Posted by Turbo LS1 SS
if the tune is safe....MAKE SURE TO LOAD THE ENGINE....those rings need to seat properly, and u dont have that big a window of time to do it
Good Luck
Break in procedure for new engines:
1.build motor
2. put in car
3. put car on dyno
4. Flog the hell out of it...
The only thing you are "breaking in" on a car with a roller cam is the ring, and they get broken in under load... WOT passes to seat the rings is the best way.
1.build motor
2. put in car
3. put car on dyno
4. Flog the hell out of it...
The only thing you are "breaking in" on a car with a roller cam is the ring, and they get broken in under load... WOT passes to seat the rings is the best way.
Originally Posted by Ryan K
Break in procedure for new engines:
1.build motor
2. put in car
3. put car on dyno
4. Flog the hell out of it...
The only thing you are "breaking in" on a car with a roller cam is the ring, and they get broken in under load... WOT passes to seat the rings is the best way.
1.build motor
2. put in car
3. put car on dyno
4. Flog the hell out of it...
The only thing you are "breaking in" on a car with a roller cam is the ring, and they get broken in under load... WOT passes to seat the rings is the best way.
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way ive understood it...break it in hard and soon...itll make more power but for not as long...break it in slow and easy....it wont make as much power but will usually last longer so long as you make sure to seat the rings.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Miami/Tampa
Yea, from what I've gathered, I think I am going to just drive it like I typically would, nothing crazy, no WOT, but enough load to break everything in properly. And, of course, make sure I change the oil as periodically as is recommended for the early break-in stages. Thank you all for your help and advice, I would definitley be lost without you guys' guidance.