ATI shroud/Spal 9" 30100452
06-27-2010, 10:08 PM
#21
Yes, I am bringing this back from the dead.
Today the temps were 95 and my car was running at 220 with 109 IAT with the A/C on. I need to bring this down. I just ordered the SPAL fan and will hopefully have it installed this week and will report back with my findings.
Today the temps were 95 and my car was running at 220 with 109 IAT with the A/C on. I need to bring this down. I just ordered the SPAL fan and will hopefully have it installed this week and will report back with my findings.
06-28-2010, 12:22 AM
#22
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And now when I am on the freeway, the fans never rarely turn on.
Temps vary from 170 to 200. Depending on the outside temps. On average they are about 190-200.
07-05-2010, 11:49 AM
#28
I got the 9" fan installed yesterday. I moved the 16" fan all the way to the passenger side and from the cut pieces I covered up the hole. Then I mounted the 9". It is not the prettiest but it functions. I also like the fact that the 9" fan mounts completely on the shroud without any overhang.
During cutting the hole for the 16" fan the shroud broke. I think the vibration from the saw snapped it. I fixed but.... I am going to contact Procharger and see of I can get a blank shroud from them and redo the whole thing.
I already noticed a 20 degree drop in temps with the A/C on at almost dusk. I am going to take it out in a little bit (it's F-in HOT OUT TODAY (97 DEGREES) and monitor the temps.
Here are some pics.
(ignore the wiring! I was testing the wires to find the high speed signal wire)
During cutting the hole for the 16" fan the shroud broke. I think the vibration from the saw snapped it. I fixed but.... I am going to contact Procharger and see of I can get a blank shroud from them and redo the whole thing.
I already noticed a 20 degree drop in temps with the A/C on at almost dusk. I am going to take it out in a little bit (it's F-in HOT OUT TODAY (97 DEGREES) and monitor the temps.
Here are some pics.
(ignore the wiring! I was testing the wires to find the high speed signal wire)
07-05-2010, 02:03 PM
#31
It's been awhile since I did the dual fan mod, but have since come to learn that it's the airflow restriction through the AC condenser that is the real issue causing overheating because of the removal of the stock air intake assembly and replacing with the ATI shroud etc.
Although the dual fans will help and lower temps, two 12 inch pusher fans mounted on the face of the AC condenser solves the overheating problem completely.
'Trust' recently did the same mod and it took care of his overheating problems as well. Us folks in KS, OK, and Texas have some extreme mid day temps always around 100 during the summer and AC is a necessity even with a weekend cruiser.
Firstly a tip. Always cut heavy corrugated cardboard to fit and tape it to the rear of the radiator when replacing the shroud. You will never have to worry about gouging the tubes or bending fins - ever again. Pull it down and out after you get the shroud in place.
Here are pics of the dual fans mounted on the AC - hard to see but enough room and they mount perfectly on a stock ac condenser.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
I parked my BeCool and reinstalled the stock 97 SLP style radiator after learning that the front mounted pusher fans on the AC condenser is what really gives a blast of fresh air into the cavity between the AC condenser and the radiator. I can let the car sit now and idle or run in stop and go traffic with AC running and it just won't overheat.
Although the dual fans will help and lower temps, two 12 inch pusher fans mounted on the face of the AC condenser solves the overheating problem completely.
'Trust' recently did the same mod and it took care of his overheating problems as well. Us folks in KS, OK, and Texas have some extreme mid day temps always around 100 during the summer and AC is a necessity even with a weekend cruiser.
Firstly a tip. Always cut heavy corrugated cardboard to fit and tape it to the rear of the radiator when replacing the shroud. You will never have to worry about gouging the tubes or bending fins - ever again. Pull it down and out after you get the shroud in place.
Here are pics of the dual fans mounted on the AC - hard to see but enough room and they mount perfectly on a stock ac condenser.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
I parked my BeCool and reinstalled the stock 97 SLP style radiator after learning that the front mounted pusher fans on the AC condenser is what really gives a blast of fresh air into the cavity between the AC condenser and the radiator. I can let the car sit now and idle or run in stop and go traffic with AC running and it just won't overheat.
07-05-2010, 04:52 PM
#32
For a cooling system, thats just a band-aid.
It's been awhile since I did the dual fan mod, but have since come to learn that it's the airflow restriction through the AC condenser that is the real issue causing overheating because of the removal of the stock air intake assembly and replacing with the ATI shroud etc.
Although the dual fans will help and lower temps, two 12 inch pusher fans mounted on the face of the AC condenser solves the overheating problem completely.
'Trust' recently did the same mod and it took care of his overheating problems as well. Us folks in KS, OK, and Texas have some extreme mid day temps always around 100 during the summer and AC is a necessity even with a weekend cruiser.
Firstly a tip. Always cut heavy corrugated cardboard to fit and tape it to the rear of the radiator when replacing the shroud. You will never have to worry about gouging the tubes or bending fins - ever again. Pull it down and out after you get the shroud in place.
Here are pics of the dual fans mounted on the AC - hard to see but enough room and they mount perfectly on a stock ac condenser.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
I parked my BeCool and reinstalled the stock 97 SLP style radiator after learning that the front mounted pusher fans on the AC condenser is what really gives a blast of fresh air into the cavity between the AC condenser and the radiator. I can let the car sit now and idle or run in stop and go traffic with AC running and it just won't overheat.
Although the dual fans will help and lower temps, two 12 inch pusher fans mounted on the face of the AC condenser solves the overheating problem completely.
'Trust' recently did the same mod and it took care of his overheating problems as well. Us folks in KS, OK, and Texas have some extreme mid day temps always around 100 during the summer and AC is a necessity even with a weekend cruiser.
Firstly a tip. Always cut heavy corrugated cardboard to fit and tape it to the rear of the radiator when replacing the shroud. You will never have to worry about gouging the tubes or bending fins - ever again. Pull it down and out after you get the shroud in place.
Here are pics of the dual fans mounted on the AC - hard to see but enough room and they mount perfectly on a stock ac condenser.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7623345499537/
I parked my BeCool and reinstalled the stock 97 SLP style radiator after learning that the front mounted pusher fans on the AC condenser is what really gives a blast of fresh air into the cavity between the AC condenser and the radiator. I can let the car sit now and idle or run in stop and go traffic with AC running and it just won't overheat.
07-05-2010, 05:29 PM
#33
Not quite sure what you mean by a bandaid?
My 'bandaid' system is identical to yours. I run Spal 16 Extreme and 9 inch puller fans on the backside of the radiator and two 11 inch pusher fans on the front side of the AC condenser.
The pusher fans keep the AC condenser cooler by pushing air through the unit and into enclosed cavity between the AC condenser and the front of the radiator. In stop and go traffic it makes a huge difference when running the AC.
My 'bandaid' system is identical to yours. I run Spal 16 Extreme and 9 inch puller fans on the backside of the radiator and two 11 inch pusher fans on the front side of the AC condenser.
The pusher fans keep the AC condenser cooler by pushing air through the unit and into enclosed cavity between the AC condenser and the front of the radiator. In stop and go traffic it makes a huge difference when running the AC.
07-05-2010, 10:11 PM
#35
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I am curious on have everyone is wiring the second fan. Can you wire on the same relay as the 16 inch fan? (I used the left over grey wire from the Procharger install and tied into the y-connector for my second wire, I hope that was correct)
07-07-2010, 09:44 PM
#36
Band-Aid, meaning it only solves the traffic issue. Sure, it works great up to about 40 m.p.h. But after that it is a restriction. It wouldn't be as big of an issue on a car that received air directly in front of the rad or condensor, but our cars utilize an air damn, so now you are blocking most of the condensor with the shroud of the fans. Remember, air has to flow through the condensor to get to the rad. It's the same as your puller fans (behind the rad.) should be set to shut off at highway speeds so that they dont create a pressure zone and block incoming air. Instead your are lessening the surface to be cooled. I'm sure you don't notice it but it would cool better (once moving) if they were not there. If pushers were so effective, you would see more vehicles equipped with them.
Not quite sure what you mean by a bandaid?
My 'bandaid' system is identical to yours. I run Spal 16 Extreme and 9 inch puller fans on the backside of the radiator and two 11 inch pusher fans on the front side of the AC condenser.
The pusher fans keep the AC condenser cooler by pushing air through the unit and into enclosed cavity between the AC condenser and the front of the radiator. In stop and go traffic it makes a huge difference when running the AC.
My 'bandaid' system is identical to yours. I run Spal 16 Extreme and 9 inch puller fans on the backside of the radiator and two 11 inch pusher fans on the front side of the AC condenser.
The pusher fans keep the AC condenser cooler by pushing air through the unit and into enclosed cavity between the AC condenser and the front of the radiator. In stop and go traffic it makes a huge difference when running the AC.
07-07-2010, 09:47 PM
#37
Do not use the same relay. Run a seperate one for the 9" fan. I would recommend using the same signal wire that the the 16" uses so that they both run at the same time.
I am curious on have everyone is wiring the second fan. Can you wire on the same relay as the 16 inch fan? (I used the left over grey wire from the Procharger install and tied into the y-connector for my second wire, I hope that was correct)Attachment 241190
07-07-2010, 09:57 PM
#38
Filling the gaps is a bad idea. When on the highway (fans are off) you want the air to be able to enter and exit the surface of the rad as efficiently as possible. If you blocked off all of the gaps, the air would then be forced to exit through the fan openings.
I've had the 9" spal sitting on my work bench for about a month. With the thicker LG radiator I'm doubtfull it will fit. Tends to push the steering cooler too far back.
Has anyone tried sealing up the gaps between the shroud and radiator with some tape? After looking it over, I would be surprised if 20% airflow is bypassing the radiator and entering through these gaps on its way to the fan.
Are you setting up the fans for low and high speed like OEM?
Has anyone tried sealing up the gaps between the shroud and radiator with some tape? After looking it over, I would be surprised if 20% airflow is bypassing the radiator and entering through these gaps on its way to the fan.
Are you setting up the fans for low and high speed like OEM?
07-09-2010, 10:39 PM
#39
I bought my procharger used so it didn't come with the fans, I bought a big piece of sheetmetal, 1 16inch zirgo fan and 1 9inch spal fan. I dropped radiator and factory fan assembly at my local muffler shop and they made me a fan shroud, I don't have a pic but it looks exactly like the one above. Cost me $50 labor plus materials
