Stroker or Blower? Help me decide!
Stroker or Blower? Help me decide! I have about $11,000 for this budget. I wish I could do both but I know this isn't enough money to cover it. Anyway, I don't know which one to do. How does a supercharged engine with 6.0 heads and mild cam compare to say a 402 or 427 stroker with a MILD set up? I just had my tranny rebuild to handle the power along with rear end. Just need some expertise on which will make more power and run low low 11's or high 10's with 125+ traps. I don't know alot about superchargers, so maybe you guys can help me with an awesome set-up. Thanks
Well, I cant speak for big cubes n/a, but boost imho has more potential. Reason being, if the motor is built for it, you can always up the boost instead of going bigger cubes, stroker, bigger motor, etc... Search around for guys making tons of power with boost alone and relativly small cubes, they have hit the numbers you are looking for. Also one of my favorite parts about sc/turbo, not happy with the power levels you want, throw in a shot of juice. Don't make mistakes (like me), as in too small injector, turbo or the p1sc instead of the D or even F. Some people say boost is cheating, well it kinda is, want more power up the boost. lol... I've got the D-1sc and love it. The major advatage to big cubes would net potentially less gremlins, as in, if something is broke it's the motor, instead of motor or the type of boost application or eek both. Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by texada
I have about $11,000 for this budget. I wish I could do both but I know this isn't enough money to cover it. Anyway, I don't know which one to do. How does a supercharged engine with 6.0 heads and mild cam compare to say a 402 or 427 stroker with a MILD set up? I just had my tranny rebuild to handle the power along with rear end. Just need some expertise on which will make more power and run low low 11's or high 10's with 125+ traps. I don't know alot about superchargers, so maybe you guys can help me with an awesome set-up. Thanks
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/592291-new-1-4-mile-best-today.html
Check out KP's car. Bob
I dont want to start a war here. Because I am boosted. My buddies 427 LS2 stroker with a ls7 topend 565 rwhp ZO6 raped my other buddies 600 rwhp forged 347 z06. It wasnt pretty either!
With only an $11000 budget, build a good forged 402 for about $6000-$7000. You can run low 11s, high 10s all day. Then you have a forged motor to start with and you can always add a blower or NOS later on when you budget allows.... 
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I hate these questions 
Either way is OK but it depends what YOU want and are capable of. The nice thing about the blower setup is you can use a nothing motor and still make a ton of power. No heads and cam of the month BS, no worrying about which headrs/catback/cutouts, stock intake, stock throttle body, stock valvetrain etc etc.
I ran 10.90s with a P1SC, 6 rib drive and a 100% stock engine except for valve springs and headers through cats and cutout, LS1 intake and all. Only weight removal on the car was rear seat, pass seat and a/c compressor/lines and drag wheels/tires. But I had a 9" ford rear and roll bar in the car so that pretty much offsets some of that weight. The TH350 was just a reliabilty thing, a decent 4L60 would hold up for quite a while - I make a LOT of passes a year
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/p1sc...32d9a380c6.htm
It would take a pretty decent n/a car to do that. Plus the advantage is you can still run the stock engine for a while while building it. Add a cheap forged 347 or 402, turn up the boost and you have a mid 10 second car. Plus with a 8 rib D1 kit and the bigger intercoolers you have a ton of potential to upgrade. I'm doing OK with a D1SC on a 347 still..
Forced induction isnt for everyone though, it really depends on what your goals are and if you want something 'different' or not. Plus how much work you plan to do by yourself should be a part of it. If you want to have a 'set it and forget' car then a nice heads/cam/stroker setup is better for you, if you dont mind a little tinkering and you can turn a wrench and figure out the tuning on your own you can be well ahead of the horsepower game with a forced induction car..
Either way is OK but it depends what YOU want and are capable of. The nice thing about the blower setup is you can use a nothing motor and still make a ton of power. No heads and cam of the month BS, no worrying about which headrs/catback/cutouts, stock intake, stock throttle body, stock valvetrain etc etc.
I ran 10.90s with a P1SC, 6 rib drive and a 100% stock engine except for valve springs and headers through cats and cutout, LS1 intake and all. Only weight removal on the car was rear seat, pass seat and a/c compressor/lines and drag wheels/tires. But I had a 9" ford rear and roll bar in the car so that pretty much offsets some of that weight. The TH350 was just a reliabilty thing, a decent 4L60 would hold up for quite a while - I make a LOT of passes a year
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/p1sc...32d9a380c6.htm
It would take a pretty decent n/a car to do that. Plus the advantage is you can still run the stock engine for a while while building it. Add a cheap forged 347 or 402, turn up the boost and you have a mid 10 second car. Plus with a 8 rib D1 kit and the bigger intercoolers you have a ton of potential to upgrade. I'm doing OK with a D1SC on a 347 still..
Forced induction isnt for everyone though, it really depends on what your goals are and if you want something 'different' or not. Plus how much work you plan to do by yourself should be a part of it. If you want to have a 'set it and forget' car then a nice heads/cam/stroker setup is better for you, if you dont mind a little tinkering and you can turn a wrench and figure out the tuning on your own you can be well ahead of the horsepower game with a forced induction car..
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Originally Posted by kp
I hate these questions
Either way is OK but it depends what YOU want and are capable of. The nice thing about the blower setup is you can use a nothing motor and still make a ton of power. No heads and cam of the month BS, no worrying about which headrs/catback/cutouts, stock intake, stock throttle body, stock valvetrain etc etc.
I ran 10.90s with a P1SC, 6 rib drive and a 100% stock engine except for valve springs and headers through cats and cutout, LS1 intake and all. Only weight removal on the car was rear seat, pass seat and a/c compressor/lines and drag wheels/tires. But I had a 9" ford rear and roll bar in the car so that pretty much offsets some of that weight. The TH350 was just a reliabilty thing, a decent 4L60 would hold up for quite a while - I make a LOT of passes a year
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/p1sc...32d9a380c6.htm
It would take a pretty decent n/a car to do that. Plus the advantage is you can still run the stock engine for a while while building it. Add a cheap forged 347 or 402, turn up the boost and you have a mid 10 second car. Plus with a 8 rib D1 kit and the bigger intercoolers you have a ton of potential to upgrade. I'm doing OK with a D1SC on a 347 still..
Forced induction isnt for everyone though, it really depends on what your goals are and if you want something 'different' or not. Plus how much work you plan to do by yourself should be a part of it. If you want to have a 'set it and forget' car then a nice heads/cam/stroker setup is better for you, if you dont mind a little tinkering and you can turn a wrench and figure out the tuning on your own you can be well ahead of the horsepower game with a forced induction car..
Either way is OK but it depends what YOU want and are capable of. The nice thing about the blower setup is you can use a nothing motor and still make a ton of power. No heads and cam of the month BS, no worrying about which headrs/catback/cutouts, stock intake, stock throttle body, stock valvetrain etc etc.
I ran 10.90s with a P1SC, 6 rib drive and a 100% stock engine except for valve springs and headers through cats and cutout, LS1 intake and all. Only weight removal on the car was rear seat, pass seat and a/c compressor/lines and drag wheels/tires. But I had a 9" ford rear and roll bar in the car so that pretty much offsets some of that weight. The TH350 was just a reliabilty thing, a decent 4L60 would hold up for quite a while - I make a LOT of passes a year
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/p1sc...32d9a380c6.htm
It would take a pretty decent n/a car to do that. Plus the advantage is you can still run the stock engine for a while while building it. Add a cheap forged 347 or 402, turn up the boost and you have a mid 10 second car. Plus with a 8 rib D1 kit and the bigger intercoolers you have a ton of potential to upgrade. I'm doing OK with a D1SC on a 347 still..
Forced induction isnt for everyone though, it really depends on what your goals are and if you want something 'different' or not. Plus how much work you plan to do by yourself should be a part of it. If you want to have a 'set it and forget' car then a nice heads/cam/stroker setup is better for you, if you dont mind a little tinkering and you can turn a wrench and figure out the tuning on your own you can be well ahead of the horsepower game with a forced induction car..
