BOSS APPROVED!
Solution for the ATI heating inpaired: Be Cool
This is why we installed a Be Cool radiator in the ProCharger 402 T/A we recently finished up. While working on this car, my guy's discovered a problem that could of caused a disaster at the track. It is hard to see the cranks in the plastic tank in these two pictures, but they are there. This car has a lot of miles on it (170k+), so it isn't too surprising to find things like this. Luckily we found the cracks, as it could of made for one huge water burnout!
Originally Posted by ninetres
Bump for current operating temps and driving conditions!
I do not have a real time temp gauge or any other way to check the temps, however the car will not overheat any longer in any type of driving (with the a/c on).
Sorry for the resurection... but I have a question.
What do you guys think would be a better idea:
Stock radiator with the SDCE shroud and fans. (pullers) SDCE Shroud
BeCool HUGE aftermarket radiator and pusher fans, I dont think this one will work with puller fans because there isnt enough clearance with the D1SC. BeCool Radiator
or
Fluidyne aftermarket radiator with either dual puller spals or the SDCE dual puller fan setup. Fluidyne
Thanks..
What do you guys think would be a better idea:
Stock radiator with the SDCE shroud and fans. (pullers) SDCE Shroud
BeCool HUGE aftermarket radiator and pusher fans, I dont think this one will work with puller fans because there isnt enough clearance with the D1SC. BeCool Radiator
or
Fluidyne aftermarket radiator with either dual puller spals or the SDCE dual puller fan setup. Fluidyne
Thanks..
Originally Posted by Urban Legend
I do not have a real time temp gauge or any other way to check the temps, however the car will not overheat any longer in any type of driving (with the a/c on).
How do you know how hot its getting? ****, my stock temp gauge reads under 210 with verified coolant temps over 220. You might not be running near as cool as you thought.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
Originally Posted by Avengeance
Sorry for the resurection... but I have a question.
What do you guys think would be a better idea:
Stock radiator with the SDCE shroud and fans. (pullers) SDCE Shroud
BeCool HUGE aftermarket radiator and pusher fans, I dont think this one will work with puller fans because there isnt enough clearance with the D1SC. BeCool Radiator
or
Fluidyne aftermarket radiator with either dual puller spals or the SDCE dual puller fan setup. Fluidyne
Thanks..
What do you guys think would be a better idea:
Stock radiator with the SDCE shroud and fans. (pullers) SDCE Shroud
BeCool HUGE aftermarket radiator and pusher fans, I dont think this one will work with puller fans because there isnt enough clearance with the D1SC. BeCool Radiator
or
Fluidyne aftermarket radiator with either dual puller spals or the SDCE dual puller fan setup. Fluidyne
Thanks..
It was my understanding it does. Am installing this weekend and don't want to waste my time removing the stock radiator and attempt to install the BeCool if I have to start hacking to get it to fit.
Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
Does the BeCool fit with a D1SC with the Ati fan puller or not?
It was my understanding it does. Am installing this weekend and don't want to waste my time removing the stock radiator and attempt to install the BeCool if I have to start hacking to get it to fit.
It was my understanding it does. Am installing this weekend and don't want to waste my time removing the stock radiator and attempt to install the BeCool if I have to start hacking to get it to fit.
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
Yes, it fits with the ATI fan assembly. Bob
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 99
Wow - old thread.
Update:
I installed the BeCool along with a Spal 16 inch Extreme 3000 CFM puller fan replacing the ATI 16 inch fan along with replacing the ATI 3 1/2 dual intercoolers with Epp's FMIC kit.
Car runs OK but it has risen to 220 (1998 Z28 with a real temp guage) with the AC on. I also replaced the Meziere ewp with a stock pump due to the fact that the BeCool and ewp would not fit due to the longer snout on the ewp.
Time will tell if the BeCool will maintain temps of 220-230 this summer in stop and go traffic with the AC on.
If it can't then I have three options left.
1) Reinstall a smaller 9 inch puller fan on the ATI shroud.
2) Install a pusher fan on the AC condenser to help cool the condensor. It's the heat from the AC condenser blowing off the condensor directly into the fins into the radiator that cause the temps to elevate so quickly past 230 after you turn on the AC. Turn off the AC and the temps will come down.
3) Replace the coolant with evans coolant. Evans doesn't boil.
The cheapest of the three choices would be to replace the coolant with Evans. Since Evans aids in pulling heat from the heads more efficiently than regular coolant due to the fact there isn't any water in the coolant to create steam pockets I think this might be my first choice. Since Evans doesn't require a pressurized system it should also stop the boiling which has occured after shutting the car off forcing boilover into the overflow tank.
Read how Evans coolant works compared to 50/50 coolant. It explains how it transfers heat more efficiently than normal water and coolant.
http://www.evanscooling.com/main27.htm
Tip: Make sure your ac condenser is clean on the bottom. It gets filled with sand and gravel in the fins. It's not big enough as it is and loosing surface area on the bottom of the condenser reduces even more its efficiency.
Update:
I installed the BeCool along with a Spal 16 inch Extreme 3000 CFM puller fan replacing the ATI 16 inch fan along with replacing the ATI 3 1/2 dual intercoolers with Epp's FMIC kit.
Car runs OK but it has risen to 220 (1998 Z28 with a real temp guage) with the AC on. I also replaced the Meziere ewp with a stock pump due to the fact that the BeCool and ewp would not fit due to the longer snout on the ewp.
Time will tell if the BeCool will maintain temps of 220-230 this summer in stop and go traffic with the AC on.
If it can't then I have three options left.
1) Reinstall a smaller 9 inch puller fan on the ATI shroud.
2) Install a pusher fan on the AC condenser to help cool the condensor. It's the heat from the AC condenser blowing off the condensor directly into the fins into the radiator that cause the temps to elevate so quickly past 230 after you turn on the AC. Turn off the AC and the temps will come down.
3) Replace the coolant with evans coolant. Evans doesn't boil.
The cheapest of the three choices would be to replace the coolant with Evans. Since Evans aids in pulling heat from the heads more efficiently than regular coolant due to the fact there isn't any water in the coolant to create steam pockets I think this might be my first choice. Since Evans doesn't require a pressurized system it should also stop the boiling which has occured after shutting the car off forcing boilover into the overflow tank.
Read how Evans coolant works compared to 50/50 coolant. It explains how it transfers heat more efficiently than normal water and coolant.
http://www.evanscooling.com/main27.htm
Tip: Make sure your ac condenser is clean on the bottom. It gets filled with sand and gravel in the fins. It's not big enough as it is and loosing surface area on the bottom of the condenser reduces even more its efficiency.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Apr 28, 2009 at 08:40 PM.
