Vacuum lines and gauge install Help to Newbs
ok cool thanks! yeah im trying to get a clear picture on the bR fuel pressure regulator.
what i dont get is, you set it on vacuum and then run it that way when you dont hook up the boost reference line...
what im not understanding is if you set it this way at sya 60 psi in vacuum... how does it drop? the aeromotive br-fpr is suppose to keep the pressure constant unless its boost referenced then it gets 1:1 boost to fuel psi. just wondering if im just not understanding or is everyone regurgitating another internet myth?
what i dont get is, you set it on vacuum and then run it that way when you dont hook up the boost reference line...
what im not understanding is if you set it this way at sya 60 psi in vacuum... how does it drop? the aeromotive br-fpr is suppose to keep the pressure constant unless its boost referenced then it gets 1:1 boost to fuel psi. just wondering if im just not understanding or is everyone regurgitating another internet myth?
thought it add a pic or two of where to drill from the inside of the cabin lol
when drilling that square bulkhead wire plug connection is a good place to reference where to drill. shouldnt need that big of a drill bit to make this hole about an inch above the connector
and you come out right here.
keeping it as clean and stock as possible
kinda keeped the vacuum manifold out of sight
the other ports in the manifold will have a BOV and wastegate refernced from it when i get to that point
when drilling that square bulkhead wire plug connection is a good place to reference where to drill. shouldnt need that big of a drill bit to make this hole about an inch above the connector
and you come out right here.
keeping it as clean and stock as possible
kinda keeped the vacuum manifold out of sight
the other ports in the manifold will have a BOV and wastegate refernced from it when i get to that point
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Question for power to aftermarket gauges. I just hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and a vacuum gauge in my 1997 Trans Am WS6. I take it that once you connect the positive wires to the fuse box, the gauges will draw continuous power until disconnected? I was testing my wiring job and they light up, but it would be nice to get them to turn on to when the ignition switch is turned on.
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Verdad Gallardo That is actually rather easy. You can either splice into a power wire that is only hit when the ignition is on, or yout can do it using a relay.
I just hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and a vacuum gauge in my 1997 Trans Am WS6. I take it that once you connect the positive wires to the fuse box, the gauges will draw continuous power until disconnected? I was testing my wiring job and they light up, but it would be nice to get them to turn on to when the ignition switch is turned on.
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I figured. This is my first time hooking up aftermarket gauges. I have my positives set up to run off the fuses in my fuse box, put I would prefer something more professional. Would tapping into my headlight switch work?
Is the headlight switch hot on ignition? There are plenty of accessory or spare 12V lines that are hot on ignition only.
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I was going to ask, I was thinking about tapping into the yellow power wire to activate the headlights, as I only need the gauges glowing at night or when the headlights are turned on. That is of course if I am reading an electrical diagram correctly...
Sounds reasonable. Post a pic of the wiring diagram and I can verify.
That sounds reasonable if you only want them on or glowing when the headlights are up. Most people do it on ignition hot so they glow constantly as long as the car is running. Just note that if you're sitting in the car with the key on but the headlights off the gauges wont illuminate.
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That sounds reasonable if you only want them on or glowing when the headlights are up. Most people do it on ignition hot so they glow constantly as long as the car is running. Just note that if you're sitting in the car with the key on but the headlights off the gauges wont illuminate.
Well, when I sit in my car at night with the key in the ignition and the exterior lights turned off, my gauges are not lit, short of my odometer and radio screen. Okay, so this weekend I am splicing into the headlight switch wire. I am getting sick of using my fuse box as a temporary means, I want these pods to appear professionally installed--by me. Thanks again for your input.
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Update In the process of trying to splice my positive gauge wires into the headlight wire from the switch, I found it too difficult to try to trace the yellow headlight wire throughout the dash panel interior. Fortunately through a cut out where the hatch back unlock button sits, I was able to trace the brown running light wire directly from the switch. After routing my butt connected gauge wires behind the fuse box, I was able to splice them into the brown wire.
Now my gauges light up when the running light is turned on, which is fine. An additional benefit is when my factory alarm is activated. The gauges light up in tune with my gauge cluster lights, interior lights, and exterior lights after locking my door and shutting it. My installation is now complete and quite professional now. I love it. Thanks again for your help.
As far as power sources the fuse box on the side of the dash on the driver side is a great place. With the factory “A” pillar removed you can feed the wire down to the fuse box. You can then either use the correct connectors(spade connector) to stick in an empty slot or wrap the bare wire around the fuse itself and push back into the slot with some effort. You’re going to want to use only the slots that are power on ignition only so as not to kill your battery.Most wiring diagrams will ask for an "ignition switch 12V". Such fuses are acc, radio, radio acc and so on. That should be all the power you need.