Street build critique
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Street build critique I want a very reliable 450-500rwhp I can use whenever I want, 25mpg, and decent driveability. I don't want it to sound like the the pro stock class decided to do some racing in the company parking lot at 7am either. I won't be able to start until May-June (when I get my signing bonus, and start working), but I'm just trying to make sure everything is accounted for so I know how much $$ I'm going to need.
Here's what I'm thinking:
Car:
1998-2000 z28 m6 w/ low miles ($10k)
Engine:
Used STS Turbo @ 5-8psi ($3000)
Comp 918 Valve Springs ($175)
Ford Green Top 42# injectors ($250)
LS6 oil pump ($100)
LS6 Intake (used $250)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump ($175)
Tuning ($300)
Alky/Meth/Water Kit ($300)
Gaskets/misc parts ($200)
Driveline:
Spec Stage 3 Clutch ($400)
T56-Rebuilds Stage 3B build ($1565 + shipping)
Accessories:
Boost gauge ($100)
Total: $16,815
Here's what I'm thinking:
Car:
1998-2000 z28 m6 w/ low miles ($10k)
Engine:
Used STS Turbo @ 5-8psi ($3000)
Comp 918 Valve Springs ($175)
Ford Green Top 42# injectors ($250)
LS6 oil pump ($100)
LS6 Intake (used $250)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump ($175)
Tuning ($300)
Alky/Meth/Water Kit ($300)
Gaskets/misc parts ($200)
Driveline:
Spec Stage 3 Clutch ($400)
T56-Rebuilds Stage 3B build ($1565 + shipping)
Accessories:
Boost gauge ($100)
Total: $16,815
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
As for a history, I owned a 95 z28 m6, and did the following mods:
xe224/230 112 cam
ported stock heads
spec stage 3 clutch
150 wet shot
slp headers
hooker catback
3" cutout
k&n cai
msd digital 6+
etc etc
Not exactly new to this...
xe224/230 112 cam
ported stock heads
spec stage 3 clutch
150 wet shot
slp headers
hooker catback
3" cutout
k&n cai
msd digital 6+
etc etc
Not exactly new to this...
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Verdad Gallardo That, and the STS setups don't have the load they need in 1st gear with an M6 (3.42 gears!) to make full boost in first, and often times in second as well. The A4 with a stall will make boost early and hold onto it.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
So Frost, whats the verdict then on the rear mount kit on the street only. Will it give me safe and reliable power up to 500rwhp? Would a heads/cam/n2o setup be any faster, safer, or more reliable, considering I cut no corners on either setup?
Originally Posted by lt1_fool
So Frost, whats the verdict then on the rear mount kit on the street only. Will it give me safe and reliable power up to 500rwhp? Would a heads/cam/n2o setup be any faster, safer, or more reliable, considering I cut no corners on either setup?
There is no real answer here, or at least not one, need to read and decide what fits within the boundaries that you have set. I was just trying to point that one thing out.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Ok, thanks for the insight. So as far as the engine parts list is concerned, does that look about as 'safe' as it can get for 500rwhp on a stock bottom end?
Also, would a heads/cam/n2o going to be 'safer' in terms of snapping a rod, cracking a piston, spinning a bearing, etc etc.
Also, would a heads/cam/n2o going to be 'safer' in terms of snapping a rod, cracking a piston, spinning a bearing, etc etc.
Last edited by lt1_fool; Jan 7, 2007 at 10:10 PM.
Originally Posted by lt1_fool
Ok, thanks for the insight. So as far as the engine parts list is concerned, does that look about as 'safe' as it can get for 500rwhp on a stock bottom end?
Also, would a heads/cam/n2o going to be 'safer' in terms of snapping a rod, cracking a piston, spinning a bearing, etc etc.
Also, would a heads/cam/n2o going to be 'safer' in terms of snapping a rod, cracking a piston, spinning a bearing, etc etc.
im still on my stock bottom end and i still have 2psi to go. equals out to about another 35-50RWHP 
but i didnt want to chance the internals so i left it with the small leak. i might fix the leak and tell them to get 6.5psi 