how much $?
You can do it for under $10,000 (motor only) if you do it with some of the cheeper parts, or know how to do the engine work yourself. I spent about $15,000 on just my motor (best parts money can buy, and professionally built). And then you need to figure a good $6,000-$8,000 for the supporting mods (fuel system, rear end, clutch/transmission, tune, ect., ect.,). Oh, and last but not least, you need to figure $3,000-$7,000 for the blower or turbo itself depending on which way you go and which one you get.
Basically stated, you need to save up some serious cash for this ordeal (at least $15,000+).
Basically stated, you need to save up some serious cash for this ordeal (at least $15,000+).
I spent a lot of time searching for deals and then I had people price match, everything is new in my motor except for my crank which I had polished and keyed for my blower pulley. that also includes new heads and if you read my sig I think Ive got some pretty damn good parts myself
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
I can do the engine work (well with a case of beer for my buddy lol) myself.
My drivetrain is pretty well taken care of I think. So all thats left is the fuel mods, and a tune (again, another friend lol)
If I can swing the motor and the fuel upgrades, hopefully i'll be good
My drivetrain is pretty well taken care of I think. So all thats left is the fuel mods, and a tune (again, another friend lol)
If I can swing the motor and the fuel upgrades, hopefully i'll be good
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Originally Posted by lmt0705
I spent a lot of time searching for deals and then I had people price match, everything is new in my motor except for my crank which I had polished and keyed for my blower pulley. that also includes new heads and if you read my sig I think Ive got some pretty damn good parts myself
looks good, how much are you putting down with your new setup?
I will let you know in a week or so, chris from east coast supercharging had the identical combo on his dyno and he got 764hp with one of his custom ground cams which im running. as soon as I get numbers I will post them. anything in the 7 range and I will be pretty happy though
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
here's what Larry at speedinc recommended for me....anything you would change? add to the list?
************************************************
SPORTSMAN SHORT BLOCK INCLUDES:
-GM 6.0 Iron Block
-Polished& refinished factory LS1 crankshaft
-Billet 6.125” connecting rods
-Diamond -8.6cc Boost pistons
-Diamond Pro-select rings
-High performance bearings
-All Gaskets, seals and hardware for short block
-Fully balanced/blueprinted/Finish hone w/torque plate, assembled
We have made over 1000 rwhp reliably with this combo.
The engine covers and hardware would all be used from your stock motor.
Timing chain, oil pump , lifters , cam would all be needed
We would recommend ARP main stud upgrade to the motor with your plans of high HP boost application.
************************************************
SPORTSMAN SHORT BLOCK INCLUDES:
-GM 6.0 Iron Block
-Polished& refinished factory LS1 crankshaft
-Billet 6.125” connecting rods
-Diamond -8.6cc Boost pistons
-Diamond Pro-select rings
-High performance bearings
-All Gaskets, seals and hardware for short block
-Fully balanced/blueprinted/Finish hone w/torque plate, assembled
We have made over 1000 rwhp reliably with this combo.
The engine covers and hardware would all be used from your stock motor.
Timing chain, oil pump , lifters , cam would all be needed
We would recommend ARP main stud upgrade to the motor with your plans of high HP boost application.
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honestly i don't really care lol
i just want a solid 700rwhp....so maybe around 750 just to make me happy
but i was thinking i could use the stock block? but Larry said there would be a reliability issue with pushing the block that much....but hell if i take it outa the car, it'll just sit in a corner anyways (pack rat)
have the crank polished
and then whatever else I would need
seems like a safe route?
this wont be a full race motor...mainly street...and will see the strip a few times a month for 3-4 months a year...rest of the time she is sitting b/c ohio weather sucks!
i just want a solid 700rwhp....so maybe around 750 just to make me happy
but i was thinking i could use the stock block? but Larry said there would be a reliability issue with pushing the block that much....but hell if i take it outa the car, it'll just sit in a corner anyways (pack rat)
have the crank polished
and then whatever else I would need
seems like a safe route?
this wont be a full race motor...mainly street...and will see the strip a few times a month for 3-4 months a year...rest of the time she is sitting b/c ohio weather sucks!
It comes down to which FI you are going.
Blower setups are around $20-$26k and turbo's are more,like $30k
This is including the motor,whole fuel systems,clutch/tranny upgrades and a ton of misc stuff you never think of.
We ussually do just the motor's for $10-$12k installed.Thats all forged,good heads,studs,everything new.
Blower setups are around $20-$26k and turbo's are more,like $30k
This is including the motor,whole fuel systems,clutch/tranny upgrades and a ton of misc stuff you never think of.
We ussually do just the motor's for $10-$12k installed.Thats all forged,good heads,studs,everything new.
I'm building a nitrous LT1 383 stroker setup to make roughly around 850RWHP and 1000+ RWTQ... I've got a little breakdown on what it cost so far roughly... keep in mind that i'm trying to run 8's so safety, suspension, and weight reduction was just as big a priority as the motor was...
Motor-I've got about 15K in the motor... everything is best money can buy and professionally built/balanced/blueprinted
Engine management-FAST XFI standalone about 2K give or take
Fuel system-nasty tank, 10AN feed, 6AN return, 50lb injectors, edelbrock fuel rails, fuel labs filters, weldon pump about 2300 bucks...
Suspension-Offset lower control arms, manual rack, QA1's at all 4 corners, BMR tubular front k-member and control arms upper/lower, BMR transmission crossmember.... Madman rack... probably at least another 2500 bucks for everything.
Misc parts-Drag brakes, proportioning valve, new brake lines, manual master cylinder.... alot of this stuff is race only but you will be shocked at how quickly it adds up.... probably by the time the car is running i'll have upwards of 25K in it..... easily....
Just know what you are getting yourself into before you do it. Have a plan and stick to it and don't be surprised when you go overbudget. I'd say whatever you figured it will cost you add about 20% to that figure for misc unseen expenses that WILL come up....
Motor-I've got about 15K in the motor... everything is best money can buy and professionally built/balanced/blueprinted
Engine management-FAST XFI standalone about 2K give or take
Fuel system-nasty tank, 10AN feed, 6AN return, 50lb injectors, edelbrock fuel rails, fuel labs filters, weldon pump about 2300 bucks...
Suspension-Offset lower control arms, manual rack, QA1's at all 4 corners, BMR tubular front k-member and control arms upper/lower, BMR transmission crossmember.... Madman rack... probably at least another 2500 bucks for everything.
Misc parts-Drag brakes, proportioning valve, new brake lines, manual master cylinder.... alot of this stuff is race only but you will be shocked at how quickly it adds up.... probably by the time the car is running i'll have upwards of 25K in it..... easily....
Just know what you are getting yourself into before you do it. Have a plan and stick to it and don't be surprised when you go overbudget. I'd say whatever you figured it will cost you add about 20% to that figure for misc unseen expenses that WILL come up....
theres no doubt you can take the stock block to 1000k to the wheels, i know someone thats doing it right with twins,
the 6.0 would leave room to grow just in case 700hp is not satsfying enuff, plenty of 700hp stock cubed blocks so you can save some money and do that, good luck with the build
the 6.0 would leave room to grow just in case 700hp is not satsfying enuff, plenty of 700hp stock cubed blocks so you can save some money and do that, good luck with the build
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Originally Posted by SSilverSSurfer
theres no doubt you can take the stock block to 1000k to the wheels, i know someone thats doing it right with twins,
the 6.0 would leave room to grow just in case 700hp is not satsfying enuff, plenty of 700hp stock cubed blocks so you can save some money and do that, good luck with the build
the 6.0 would leave room to grow just in case 700hp is not satsfying enuff, plenty of 700hp stock cubed blocks so you can save some money and do that, good luck with the build
who wants to help me price this baby out
750hp would be plenty
more than that and i'm just getting a drag car lol
I think you could probably do it with a budget built LSx motor with pretty good heads, reasonable size cam, forged pistons/rods/crank..... i'd say go with a good reputable builder that can build you a long/short block for the best price...
then invest in a twin turbo setup using a couple small turbo's... most of your money is going to be in the turbos and intercooler/piping.... but remember getting 750hp to the wheels is also going to require some serious consideration to your fuel system.... and if the car is a 6 speed it's going to shred your clutch or the bands in your stock auto.... so the price will still add up... i'd say 15 grand and it's doable... hell what do two turbo's cost nowadays with an intercooler and all the piping???? 5K at least no????
then invest in a twin turbo setup using a couple small turbo's... most of your money is going to be in the turbos and intercooler/piping.... but remember getting 750hp to the wheels is also going to require some serious consideration to your fuel system.... and if the car is a 6 speed it's going to shred your clutch or the bands in your stock auto.... so the price will still add up... i'd say 15 grand and it's doable... hell what do two turbo's cost nowadays with an intercooler and all the piping???? 5K at least no????