FI: Thin Oil Issues?
#1
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From: Houston TX/Worldwide
FI: Thin Oil Issues?
Ok reading another thread here I wanted to get some feedback and not ***** his thread.
Ok I had valvetrain tap once motor warmed up. Changed oil and found it was thin. Once I changed no tap at all. Made 6 1/4 miles passes and tap came back. Check oil and its thin again. Again on start up it does not do it till its warm. Its nothing to do with the motor I am 100% sure, but with the oil being so thin.
The car is running really rich 10:1 below and I am running meth.
What could be the cause of this? Running rich or Meth
How often do I need to change my oil? Reg change or what?
I am running mob1 10W30.
Do I need to switch to a different oil?
Help needed please.
Ok I had valvetrain tap once motor warmed up. Changed oil and found it was thin. Once I changed no tap at all. Made 6 1/4 miles passes and tap came back. Check oil and its thin again. Again on start up it does not do it till its warm. Its nothing to do with the motor I am 100% sure, but with the oil being so thin.
The car is running really rich 10:1 below and I am running meth.
What could be the cause of this? Running rich or Meth
How often do I need to change my oil? Reg change or what?
I am running mob1 10W30.
Do I need to switch to a different oil?
Help needed please.
Last edited by 1INSANEGTO; 03-27-2007 at 10:47 AM.
#3
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From: Houston TX/Worldwide
Should I stay with the mob1 10W30? Thats what I was thinking was fuel cause I am told thats really really rich. I see it on my wide band when I hit boost it shoots to 10 so it might be lower but it just tuning issues that have to be worked out I guess.
#5
Running so rich could wash the bores, and dilute the oil. Does the oil smell of fuel ?
Im running Motul 300V 5/40 in my car, and its fine. I did use 15/50 previously though. Im not a fan of overly thin oils.
Im running Motul 300V 5/40 in my car, and its fine. I did use 15/50 previously though. Im not a fan of overly thin oils.
#6
Id say your starting to wash the cylinder walls from running so rich..... and then getting fuel in the oil....
I run 5W30 in my motor. Mobil 1. I run it for about 1K miles or so.... then i change it.....sometimes less...
I run 5W30 in my motor. Mobil 1. I run it for about 1K miles or so.... then i change it.....sometimes less...
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#9
Originally Posted by 1INSANEGTO
15w50 good for a street car daily driven?
No fuel smell in oil. I am getting it tuned this weekend! Eric going to get all the tuning headache done!
No fuel smell in oil. I am getting it tuned this weekend! Eric going to get all the tuning headache done!
#13
Originally Posted by fastest94v6
honestly, I run mobil 1 10w30, and I'm adding a quart by oil change time. Just did my cam swap and the valvetrain is louder....i'm switching to royal purple.
#14
I ran 20W50 with NO problems in my SS, but I would not do it with a stock motor... Its too thick for the stock bearing clearences. I did it once with my old stock motor and drained it out 5 minutes later.
#15
Originally Posted by Inspector12
Do not run that thick of an oil. I have had personal experience with this problem and the tune is probably your biggest problem that much fuel and some blow by under boost and it is contaminated with fuel and to much that won't flash off under regualar driving. With the clearances that are on our motors you shouldn't run anything thicker than a 10W40 if you go anythicker you are just cooking the oil trying to force such a thick oil through tight or normal clearances. I guaratee your oil temp will be a lot higher with the thicker oil and it will break down quicker and also doesn't flow as well so takes longer for parts to get oil on startup etc... Ideal oil temp is 220 just hot enough to flash off any normal blow by fuel, I say normal cause if you are pouring the fuel in your motor under boost it will contaminate oil fast and will also break it down and that equal more motor wear and so on down the list of probelms it can cause. By the way before any of you internet gurus say anything this is first hand experience with 20W50 and then swapping to a 10W40 that was a 62 degree drop in oil temps in the high 280 low 290's with the 20W50. If you set you bearing clearances up at 30-35 thousands then a 15W50 or 20W50 could be and would be recomended, but I know of noone setting up those clearances now days. That test was on a big block and it didn't matter if it was on the drag strip or on the road couse the temps were still lower with the 10W40 not as high temps in Drags cause of the short duration of the run etc..., but it was noticibly lower and in the proper operating range. Get your tune looked at and get your AF down in the mid 11's and you will see a huge change in your oil samples. Good luck.
#16
Originally Posted by Country Boy
I ran 20W50 with NO problems in my SS, but I would not do it with a stock motor... Its too thick for the stock bearing clearences. I did it once with my old stock motor and drained it out 5 minutes later.
#17
Originally Posted by Inspector12
Do not run that thick of an oil. I have had personal experience with this problem and the tune is probably your biggest problem that much fuel and some blow by under boost and it is contaminated with fuel and to much that won't flash off under regualar driving. With the clearances that are on our motors you shouldn't run anything thicker than a 10W40 if you go anythicker you are just cooking the oil trying to force such a thick oil through tight or normal clearances. I guaratee your oil temp will be a lot higher with the thicker oil and it will break down quicker and also doesn't flow as well so takes longer for parts to get oil on startup etc... Ideal oil temp is 220 just hot enough to flash off any normal blow by fuel, I say normal cause if you are pouring the fuel in your motor under boost it will contaminate oil fast and will also break it down and that equal more motor wear and so on down the list of probelms it can cause. By the way before any of you internet gurus say anything this is first hand experience with 20W50 and then swapping to a 10W40 that was a 62 degree drop in oil temps in the high 280 low 290's with the 20W50. If you set you bearing clearances up at 30-35 thousands then a 15W50 or 20W50 could be and would be recomended, but I know of noone setting up those clearances now days. That test was on a big block and it didn't matter if it was on the drag strip or on the road couse the temps were still lower with the 10W40 not as high temps in Drags cause of the short duration of the run etc..., but it was noticibly lower and in the proper operating range. Get your tune looked at and get your AF down in the mid 11's and you will see a huge change in your oil samples. Good luck.
#18
I run 10/40 in the winter and switch to 20-50 or just straight 50W for summer since it gets so hot here. Even the 20-50 gets kind of thin.
I'm also a fan of Shell Rotella oil like DrTurbo. Very cheap and lasts a long time, this is what most cummins diesel guys run.
I'm also a fan of Shell Rotella oil like DrTurbo. Very cheap and lasts a long time, this is what most cummins diesel guys run.
#19
Originally Posted by Zombie
I run 10/40 in the winter and switch to 20-50 or just straight 50W for summer since it gets so hot here. Even the 20-50 gets kind of thin.
I'm also a fan of Shell Rotella oil like DrTurbo. Very cheap and lasts a long time, this is what most cummins diesel guys run.
I'm also a fan of Shell Rotella oil like DrTurbo. Very cheap and lasts a long time, this is what most cummins diesel guys run.
#20
Originally Posted by gi8e7oi825
Did you experience this problem on a built or stock motor? It was recommended to me by Lingenfelter to use 15W50 on their engine. They also said they use it on all their TT Corvettes. I just want to make sure because I'm really not interested in buying another damn engine.