burritoboy9984

iTrader: (1)

If you have about 10,000 give or take a bit, wait for the aps twin turbo kit, get a clutch, fuel pump, injectors, exhaust and a bmr k-member... tune it for around 500 hp... I will bet if you don't rag the **** out of it all the time everything will live for a good ammount of time and still drive close to stock, and have a TON of power and torque down low... (only reason I say aps is because I've helped put thier kits on corvettes and g35s and if thier fbody kit is half as good, it will rock)

If you don't, just do cam, headers, exhaust and heads... that will run u around 7,000 give or take a bit... You will make easily 400hp with a big cam and headers or closer to 450 with heads... and it will sound mean as hell and vibrate your whole car all the time, and your power will mostly be up top...

No brainer for me, I would go turbo, esp. for the sleeper status... until they hear the hairdryers But... It's up to you

-Erik

gametech

iTrader: (1)

500RWHP turboed 346 is a mild daily driver that you don't even know is modded until you push the pedal a little further. 500RWHP N/A with a 346 is a full out can't idle, loud as hell, shakes enough to mix paint, makes your garage stink like raw fuel race motor.

bulletz28

iTrader: (6)

F/I is the way to go, spend money and get broke

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

Lots of good info in this thread. I'm in the same situation. I'm in college right now so I don't have much money. How much does it cost total to get a decent supercharger for one of these cars(not counting needing to build the tranny/replace the rear, etc.)?

burritoboy9984

iTrader: (1)

If you don't drag race, you shouldn't need a rear end... and on the supercharger it all depends on if you want to make around 500 go with a p1sc or more than 600 go with a d1sc... or over 800 go with an F1... don't quote me, but I would assume a procharger setup would be close to the same price as a turbo setup...

-Erik

bulletz28

iTrader: (6)

Lots of good info in this thread. I'm in the same situation. I'm in college right now so I don't have much money. How much does it cost total to get a decent supercharger for one of these cars(not counting needing to build the tranny/replace the rear, etc.)?
Like Borritoboy said, you to have at least 10k

bulletz28

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=Speedmonster185]Lots of good info in this thread. I'm in the same situation. I'm in college right now so I don't have much money. How much does it cost total to get a decent supercharger for one of these cars(not counting needing to build the tranny/replace the rear, etc.)?[/QUO
10k

JayplaySS

iTrader: (15)

FI all the way. Just like cable tv..its there all day every day. It would cost you MORE money to run that number n/a and would be very unfriendly. You like changing valve springs every 10K miles? FI man.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

I definitely like EVERY aspect of the FI over N/A, except for the price. Other than that last night I decided I had to have a supercharger... lol

germeezy1

I have already done Heads/Cam/N20 and can tell you that FI IMHO is the way to go. A buddy of mine put down very close to 550 RWHP with a stock everything other than LT's C5 Z06. And it cost alot less than the route I went and he has it all the time.

Grimery

iTrader: (1)

After reading the responses, i'm heavily leaning towards FI.


Now the big decision...supercharger or turbo?


Reliability is the most important thing to me, I don't like being stranded in the 60 mile canyon that I drive through every weekend that has zero cell phone coverage.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

Dont forget if your willing to accept something in the 450-475rwhp range, then theres plenty of options. There are some VERY streetable setups making good power. If you really wanna check out what kind of reasonable N/A power you can make, then check around that section of the board. This area is gonna be a little more biased if ya know what i mean

Check into the cheatR cam or something of that nature for decent numbers and stock like idle/ride. But i agree once you break that 500+rwhp mark with n/a its gonna be a little bit more of a chore to drive everyday.

Grimery

iTrader: (1)

I'd be happy with 450-475, whatever is the most streetable/reliable is the way I'll go...

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

Would something that makes 450-475 be any cheaper also? Maybe not have to build up so many parts to be a lot stronger? I would like to have 400+ with a cam, so if I can get 450+ and more stock feeling, while not a ton more expensive I would seriously consider it.

How much more would one of those 450-475 setups cost than a cam setup that would give me 400+? That means not counting the things that you need to build stronger or replace, like tranny, rear-end, etc.

02SSLE

iTrader: (26)

with my setup if feels factory just cruising around until you get into boost.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

That would be my IDEAL setup. I would love for that feeling.

gun5l1ng3r

I don't know if he was serious, he had the " " in there!

I think that a twin turbo on a forged short block (346 or 370) would be very streetable w/ about 550RWHP.

germeezy1

If you had a forged 346 or 370 shortblock with a TT kit, 550 RWHP is the bare minimum that I would be happy with. That setup would easily makes upwards of 650 RWHP.

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

My set-up's goal is just that: Stock drivability w/ 700+ rwhp and ice-cold AC in traffic... Well, with a little lope, of course.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

I will be selling my Vortech blower setup to help fund my twin turbo project. My kit will make ya 550 hp.

To me 550 is just the right amount of horsepower for the street. Its tame enough to drive around but stomp on it, flash the converter and go into boost and hold on here we go.