Turbo oil question????!!!
Does the Oil inlet have to be directly above (vertical) the Oil Drane on turbo? Does the turbo Oil feed and drane have to be completly vertical, or can they be at an angle I would think that since the feed is pressured oil it will flow through the trubo anyways as long as the feed is somewhat above the outlet
Last edited by Eatinstang4life; Apr 9, 2007 at 10:22 AM.
my feed line goes to the top of the turbo at a semicircle to keep stress off of everything due to the rearend/panhard/turbo moving/torqing due to load, and then my return line goes 90* out of the bottom of the turbo to the STS pump and then to the front of the car
check my sig for my build
i can post pics for ya later if ya want
check my sig for my build
i can post pics for ya later if ya want
how else would you do it and why would you do it another way? you get a straight down fitting for the top and you feed the bottom 90* out and then up with the hose over the axle and back up.
i mean i guess it doesn't HAVE to be. how you plan on hooking it all up?
i mean i guess it doesn't HAVE to be. how you plan on hooking it all up?
I understand the fittings and such see the thing is when I mounted my turbo the outlet is even (parrallel with the ground) But the oil inlet and outlets are not perfectly vertical they are at an angle, but the feed is still above the drane just not perfectly vertical. If I clock the housing to make the oil inlet and outlet vertical then the turbo outlet is going to be facing towards the ground. Sorry killa for the confusion and thanks for your input
Last edited by Eatinstang4life; Apr 8, 2007 at 05:14 PM.
The actual line that feeds the oil into the turbo can be at any angle/position above or below the turbo. The oil pressure from you car will drive the feed line. As for the drain, almost all are gravity drain, therefore the drain line must be lower than the turbos (unless you use some type of scavenger pump). There is a couple of other trend on where to put the drain line (i.e. oil pan, timing chain cover). I personally use my stock oil guage placement for my oil feed, and than drain it back into the timing cover. You can go to my site for more pictures of the oiling system.
Good luck
David
Hope this helps.
David
Good luck
David
Hope this helps.
David
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From: Anheuser Busch, Houston Texas
Originally Posted by Navy David SS
The actual line that feeds the oil into the turbo can be at any angle/position above or below the turbo. The oil pressure from you car will drive the feed line. As for the drain, almost all are gravity drain, therefore the drain line must be lower than the turbos (unless you use some type of scavenger pump). There is a couple of other trend on where to put the drain line (i.e. oil pan, timing chain cover). I personally use my stock oil guage placement for my oil feed, and than drain it back into the timing cover. You can go to my site for more pictures of the oiling system.
Good luck
David
Hope this helps.
David
Good luck
David
Hope this helps.
David
Are you sure about that?
I know some turbos with thrust bearings will not oil correctly at anything more than about 10* off vertical even though they obviously have a pressure feed because of the bearing configuration.
At least, I know TD0X IHI turbos will not. My guess is it depends heavily on the turbo you are using. I would check with the manufacturer if it was my turbo.
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Thanks guys its a garrett turbo with the sts rear mount kit. I will check with them. The feed prob is about 10 oclock and the drane is about 4 oclock, just for more info I started my car and checked it seems like the oil is flowing pretty well.
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On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
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From: Breese, IL
my front mount is right around 25-30 degrees with a -10an return. I haven't had any oiling issues in the few miles it has driven so far. We're going to thrash on it on the dyno on Friday, so if something is going to fail, we should know then.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
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From: Breese, IL
The compressor side is clockable throughout the 360 degree range. The exhaust side (at least on mine) only has 6 bolt holes and locations to clock, meaning that each clocked location is 60 degrees apart from the next.
The exhaust housings are made so that the oil inlet can be clocked to straight vertical when the T4 flange is straight horizontal. If that T4 flange is angled at all, you won't get a vertical clocking of the oil inlet.
Let's say the T4 flange is at a 25* angle from horizontal, you would have a choice of the oil inlet being off vertical by 25* or 35* depending on which bolt holes you used.
Though, for the sake of this thread and Eatinstang4life, I think his problem is just clocking the compressor side. Just loosen up the bolts on the compressor side, clock the housing to where you need it, and lock it down.
The exhaust housings are made so that the oil inlet can be clocked to straight vertical when the T4 flange is straight horizontal. If that T4 flange is angled at all, you won't get a vertical clocking of the oil inlet.
Let's say the T4 flange is at a 25* angle from horizontal, you would have a choice of the oil inlet being off vertical by 25* or 35* depending on which bolt holes you used.
Though, for the sake of this thread and Eatinstang4life, I think his problem is just clocking the compressor side. Just loosen up the bolts on the compressor side, clock the housing to where you need it, and lock it down.
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From: Anheuser Busch, Houston Texas
Yes if the oil inlet is permenantly mated to a housing, or not clockable, then you have to spin that housing to get oil to (near) vertical. On TD0X turbines, the center cartridge sperates from both housings, but there are indexing pins that keep the oil inlet in one position relative to the housings. Those can be removed of course.
I do not see why you would not be able to take both housings off and delete the mechanism(s) that keep the center cartridge from being mounted in a different poisition relative to the housings though. For servicing the cartridge and seals, it would not make sense to have a housing permenantly affixed.
I do not see why you would not be able to take both housings off and delete the mechanism(s) that keep the center cartridge from being mounted in a different poisition relative to the housings though. For servicing the cartridge and seals, it would not make sense to have a housing permenantly affixed.
