EPP

iTrader: (22)

The newer ATI ProCharger ProFlow bypass valve is really all you should need at your boost level. Bob

No Juice

iTrader: (11)

Anyone know what the part number is for the little filter?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

ATI part number is AF0571-004
Air filter RU-0160 "surge system filter"
1.5" inlet, 4.00" long, 3.00" dia
MSRP is $41.00.
Bob

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

This is wrong. Your intake will not be pulling air in thru the bypass valve, it will be pushing excess air out of the bypass valve.

kp

iTrader: (34)

There is really no way it will ever draw anything into the bypass when its running, at WOT is closed and when not at WOT the blower is pushing enough air out of the bypass to keep anything out. Unless the inlet is pointing straight forward (which mine is) then maybe something could get in there at highway speeds but its unlikely. Even if a big rock got in there during a pass when it was closed it would get blown out as soon as I dumped the throttle..

I used to filter to quiet it down, plus you have to be careful what filter you use, if its too restrictive it kind of defeats the purpose of the bypass

Superado

iTrader: (34)

kp, having said that about the filter...
I wonder if the little Summit filter (pic in first post) that I have on there led to the problems with the valve?
I've had it on for prolly 8 months...but was no where near the boost level I am now when I installed it...

kp

iTrader: (34)

I doubt the filter made it go bad, but I would probably find a little bigger filter if you have the room or just not use one at all if its fairly protected from the elements (done want it to get filled up with water when washing it).

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I used the ATI race bypass vented to atmosphere and loved it. The one that comes in the kit is a real piece and it leaks really bad.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

You could be at an idle or light cruise and punch it fast enough to gulp some air through the bypass before it can react. It may not be often, but why take a chance? A small filter is a cheap insurance policy compared to all the money we have in our setups... And what if your blower belt breaks - do you want to be sucking up shreds of whatever is flying around? $20-40 depending on your setup...

Jim

kp

iTrader: (34)

I extremely doubt there would ever be a time when it would draw through the bypass, unless you took off the blower belt The blower is always moving a ton of air, even at idle you can feel it 10 feet in front of my car. A bypass like the ATI race has no provision to use a filter even if you wanted..

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Not everyone has a race setup with a blower moving a ton of air. I'm just saying it's cheap insurance. Imagine if you were wrong and a small stone got in there. Anytime your MAP is reading less than ambient air pressure there is a chance that you could flow into the bypass at certain times. Haven't you ever seen a datalog where you can see the TPS punch to WOT and you get a quick dip in the MAP reading?

Whatever works for your setup. It's just not something I would do. If I didn't have at least a screen on it, I might do some dipshit thing like drop a screw in there or something...

Jim

BLNLS1/RX7

iTrader: (2)

You need to check with Bob at Exotic Performance Plus.com.They wrote the book on the Pro Charger.

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

I liked how mine looks so I mounted it in the engine bay. It looks like it can flow a good amount of air too. It's the vortech race by-pass, it's just a little smaller than the mondo.

Superado

iTrader: (34)

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

I think you can put it anywhere between the outlet of the supercharger and the inlet of the throttle body. I don't see how it could make much dif where, it's just venting the extra air the engine doesn't need when it's not wot. As soon as you start to make boost it closes. I'm no expert but that's how I understand it.

kp

iTrader: (34)

I understand, but a D1SC with a 7.25/3.4 setup is hardly a race setup Even if the MAP dips the the blower will still be moving a ton of air and blowing out the bypass, plus the spring is strong enough where if the it did drop for 1/10 of a second it would slam shut. Only time I could see sucking something in would be if the blower belt broke, then the bypass would be wide open at idle/decell.

I'm not telling people NOT to use a filter or screen, if you want to its not a big deal really, especially if its exposed and something could get in it (especially water, water is bad). Just dont use one thats too small since restricting the flow kind of defeats the purpose of it

Superado

iTrader: (34)

anyone ever tried a JGS Precision Turbo bypass valve?
part # is JGS 340 Sequential Bypass Valve

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I have the well proven Vortech Mondo Valve in stock
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=644
and the steel flange
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=646
I could get it out to you tomorrow. Bob

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/684452-vortech-mondo-dump-atmosphere-back-into-piping.html

Post 9 has a pic of my Mondo.

Superado

iTrader: (34)

Bob, I believe that you were correct in saying that the ProFlow is sufficient for my application. I spoke with ProCharger and was made aware that the style I have was changed to the ProFlow for appearance reasons mainly and maybe a little cleaner install...but that the reaction time of the one I have is actually a little better however. andereck got me the part # for the OE application of the vacuum control used on the one I have and I ordered one last night...it arrived this morning. He said that the diaphragm was replaceable, but for $9 my price...I may just replace the valve...it is just screwed onto the butterfly assembly. First I'm going to take the whole assembly off and clean and lube it really well and see if that solves the occassional sticking. If it continues, I will just change out the VCV. I probably should replace the little Summit filter I have on it with the K&N like you use or similar.
Thanks everyone for your input!