F--- this car. Still running hot.
agreed, same idea as taking the hood off to reduce temps, and it actually raises them.
I run the street EWP, but lots of guys use it w/o problems. I had it before when I was H/C and it worked fine. Besides, wouldn't comprimised water flow show up at high speeds too?
I spoke to another member today who used his stock fan shroud with an LT1 fan swapped on the driver side (its shorter), also relocated up higher. I might try it, although I have alot of fan now.
I made some more shrouding just now, to block off where the radiator is exposed to the engine bay on each side. It didn't help, but I suppose the lack of any shroud besides that is killing me. My IC needs to be moved forward some, I'm not sure why they mounted it so close to the radiator, but opening that gap could only help. Right now I have about a 2.5" gap between the ic and the radiator support where the airdam meets it. Otherwise all the air is coming from the grill opening, through the ic of course.
No, stock. Wouldn't matter anyway, except with my voltage.
Anyone know where I can get a smaller alternator pulley?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Anyone know where I can get a smaller alternator pulley?
I think most underdrive pulley manufacters make alt pulleys
Putting a pusher fan in front probably hurt more then helped.
The EWPs move way more more water at idle then a stock pump, if it was overheating on the highway I would suspect the pump.
200* at idle isnt bad, I have heard people say their LSx never gets over 180 degrees on a 90 degree day but I never seen one. I have owned 6 of them myself from everything from a solid roller 414 iron block, 2 head/cam stock shortblock and three ATI supercharged LS1 cars and I never was able to get a STOCK LS1 to run at 180 degrees at idle over 75 degrees out.
I have no idea about your voltage, I have just as much stuff running and the battery in the back and my voltage doesnt drop that low, something is wrong there. Its normal for the voltage to drop some at idle, its not going to hold at 13.5 volts at idle with all the stuff running.
I just need to figure out if I should make a shroud to seal the radiator to the underside only or allow it to draw through the bottom and the front, through the ic. I really see no reason why allowing it to draw from both areas would hurt, but hell, I've been wrong thus far!
KP, I doubt the pusher fan hurt per se, since its not really blocking anything off (no shroud). I took a cue from the turbo guys who use pushers only, some had to add a puller to get temps down. I figure it works both ways. All 3 fans running might keep temps in check, but man, at idle the voltage drops so low the car feels like its gonna die or something.
Hey, anyone have their (intact) stock shrouds? Mine got kinda destroyed. At least I have the stock fans still.
And thanks to everyone else who is helping, and for listening to my whining.
Griffin makes radiators larger or with bigger or thicker cores than are advertised on Summit. Check the Griffin site closely and you will see P/N's for higher capacity radiators. I am using a 31" x 19" but with a dual 1.5" core, that is rated to 1000HP. Got it through Summit but I had to know what to ask for.
Also, I am running Evans waterless coolant, which boils at like 370 degrees. Between the Griffin rad and the Evans coolant, I have overcooling issues which are much easier to address.
Jim
I've been reading this whole thread, wish I had something to contribute, but I'm as baffled as you are.
Took everything apart today, moved ic forward a ton, and moved radiator up. Still can't fit the factory fan shroud in. But I made an interesting discovery while under the POS....my EWP has been leaking oil or grease out of the motor, so thats not cool. Might be why it doesn't cool so well or maybe why my voltage is low.
Going to reassemble tomorrow, probably going to re-use my ATI shroud with the 16" and 9" pullers. I'm installing a stock water pump and 160 stat too. Then I'll try to shroud the radiator as best I can.



