Realistic gains going to an F1A from a D1SC?
07-16-2007, 08:16 AM
#61
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Renegade Mustang guys run 8 rib belts into the 8.6's on a regular basis, so if you can run 9.1's like mister smartypants you are not far off from the guys who run them to the limit. Renegade guys run strut braces, and have the belts very tight. Here is a pic of my old YSi setup with strut brace:
do they make those for 98+fbody setups on prochargers?
07-16-2007, 11:22 AM
#64
Originally Posted by cablebandit
Your dog has fleas cause you bought a really good converter.
Kp, what is your IAT gain from start to finish in the 1/4 on the low 9 sec passes?
Kp, what is your IAT gain from start to finish in the 1/4 on the low 9 sec passes?
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Renegade Mustang guys run 8 rib belts into the 8.6's on a regular basis, so if you can run 9.1's like mister smartypants you are not far off from the guys who run them to the limit. Renegade guys run strut braces, and have the belts very tight. Here is a pic of my old YSi setup with strut brace:
How often do those renegade cars lose engines and throw belts though? They are pushed to edge every pass. But yes its more then possible to go mid 8s with an 8 rib but I believe they have to run an 8 rib. I have very little tension on mine and its expected to slip at some point, stepping up to the 5.4:1 ratio puts a lot of extra strain on the drive in 1st gear. Maybe I should have replaced the over one year old belt too, next time.
07-16-2007, 03:08 PM
#66
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The correct way for a brace, is from pulley to pulley.
This gives both blower bearings extra support, and the crankshaft itself. So belt tension loadings arent as severe on both items.
I finally got one from Australia for my Vortech setup....just need to squeeze the damn thing in somehow ! well...after I get some bits machined to fit.
This gives both blower bearings extra support, and the crankshaft itself. So belt tension loadings arent as severe on both items.
I finally got one from Australia for my Vortech setup....just need to squeeze the damn thing in somehow ! well...after I get some bits machined to fit.
04-20-2008, 02:41 PM
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havent been on in a while. Got my d1sc setup working great. I was making 17psi on my configuration by 6200 rpm, and was bleeding at 17psi, so it never rose above this. All belt slip issues taken care of, and even got some special carbon kevlar belts that dont stretch and have a 5x+ longer life span than conventional.
Just got my hands on a newly rebuilt f1r, and just swapped it out. Putting on some etp 245 heads, and the hold up right now is backordered t&d and jesel rockers. I will have much more flow, so in the beggining, im going to set my bleed off valve to 12lbs of boost, and see what that gives me on the dyno. Obviously if i create more power, its bc im flowing more air at 12psi than i was at 17psi with my old ported ls1 heads. Im gearing the f1r with the 3 inch pulley still, and hopefully ill be making my peak flow/psi at a lower rpm than 6200 like i was with the d1sc.
The valve im using is fully adjustable, and has a simple screw concept that adds or lessens pressure on the diaphram spring, so i can adjust it while on the dyno in 5 seconds. Ill back it off more and more as my tuner gives the ok. If he says its ok to run 20lbs of boost, we will try it, but this valve gives us the flexability to keep things in the safe zone at first and gradually move up, without switching pulleys while on dyno time $$$.
Those 10,000 other people must have had more time and more cash than me, and magic tires with gobs and gobs of traction that never spun at 1000+hp at high rpms, or they had normal tires that spun once you throw enough power at them, but instead had magical low end torque that came from nowhere, and a completely flat dyno curve that produced huge power at low rpms even tho their supercharger wasnt spinning very much... thus allowing them to make peak tire pealing power at all rpms, even while using a supercharger that is designed to produce more air as rpms get higher, and not as much at lower rpms, their power is still magically usable and flat, if you meet one of them, tell them to give me a call, im curious how they do it
Just got my hands on a newly rebuilt f1r, and just swapped it out. Putting on some etp 245 heads, and the hold up right now is backordered t&d and jesel rockers. I will have much more flow, so in the beggining, im going to set my bleed off valve to 12lbs of boost, and see what that gives me on the dyno. Obviously if i create more power, its bc im flowing more air at 12psi than i was at 17psi with my old ported ls1 heads. Im gearing the f1r with the 3 inch pulley still, and hopefully ill be making my peak flow/psi at a lower rpm than 6200 like i was with the d1sc.
The valve im using is fully adjustable, and has a simple screw concept that adds or lessens pressure on the diaphram spring, so i can adjust it while on the dyno in 5 seconds. Ill back it off more and more as my tuner gives the ok. If he says its ok to run 20lbs of boost, we will try it, but this valve gives us the flexability to keep things in the safe zone at first and gradually move up, without switching pulleys while on dyno time $$$.
Those 10,000 other people must have had more time and more cash than me, and magic tires with gobs and gobs of traction that never spun at 1000+hp at high rpms, or they had normal tires that spun once you throw enough power at them, but instead had magical low end torque that came from nowhere, and a completely flat dyno curve that produced huge power at low rpms even tho their supercharger wasnt spinning very much... thus allowing them to make peak tire pealing power at all rpms, even while using a supercharger that is designed to produce more air as rpms get higher, and not as much at lower rpms, their power is still magically usable and flat, if you meet one of them, tell them to give me a call, im curious how they do it
Last edited by irun4cops; 04-20-2008 at 02:51 PM.
04-20-2008, 10:32 PM
#69
havent been on in a while. Got my d1sc setup working great. I was making 17psi on my configuration by 6200 rpm, and was bleeding at 17psi, so it never rose above this. All belt slip issues taken care of, and even got some special carbon kevlar belts that dont stretch and have a 5x+ longer life span than conventional.
Just got my hands on a newly rebuilt f1r, and just swapped it out. Putting on some etp 245 heads, and the hold up right now is backordered t&d and jesel rockers. I will have much more flow, so in the beggining, im going to set my bleed off valve to 12lbs of boost, and see what that gives me on the dyno. Obviously if i create more power, its bc im flowing more air at 12psi than i was at 17psi with my old ported ls1 heads. Im gearing the f1r with the 3 inch pulley still, and hopefully ill be making my peak flow/psi at a lower rpm than 6200 like i was with the d1sc.
The valve im using is fully adjustable, and has a simple screw concept that adds or lessens pressure on the diaphram spring, so i can adjust it while on the dyno in 5 seconds. Ill back it off more and more as my tuner gives the ok. If he says its ok to run 20lbs of boost, we will try it, but this valve gives us the flexability to keep things in the safe zone at first and gradually move up, without switching pulleys while on dyno time $$$.
Those 10,000 other people must have had more time and more cash than me, and magic tires with gobs and gobs of traction that never spun at 1000+hp at high rpms, or they had normal tires that spun once you throw enough power at them, but instead had magical low end torque that came from nowhere, and a completely flat dyno curve that produced huge power at low rpms even tho their supercharger wasnt spinning very much... thus allowing them to make peak tire pealing power at all rpms, even while using a supercharger that is designed to produce more air as rpms get higher, and not as much at lower rpms, their power is still magically usable and flat, if you meet one of them, tell them to give me a call, im curious how they do it
Just got my hands on a newly rebuilt f1r, and just swapped it out. Putting on some etp 245 heads, and the hold up right now is backordered t&d and jesel rockers. I will have much more flow, so in the beggining, im going to set my bleed off valve to 12lbs of boost, and see what that gives me on the dyno. Obviously if i create more power, its bc im flowing more air at 12psi than i was at 17psi with my old ported ls1 heads. Im gearing the f1r with the 3 inch pulley still, and hopefully ill be making my peak flow/psi at a lower rpm than 6200 like i was with the d1sc.
The valve im using is fully adjustable, and has a simple screw concept that adds or lessens pressure on the diaphram spring, so i can adjust it while on the dyno in 5 seconds. Ill back it off more and more as my tuner gives the ok. If he says its ok to run 20lbs of boost, we will try it, but this valve gives us the flexability to keep things in the safe zone at first and gradually move up, without switching pulleys while on dyno time $$$.
Those 10,000 other people must have had more time and more cash than me, and magic tires with gobs and gobs of traction that never spun at 1000+hp at high rpms, or they had normal tires that spun once you throw enough power at them, but instead had magical low end torque that came from nowhere, and a completely flat dyno curve that produced huge power at low rpms even tho their supercharger wasnt spinning very much... thus allowing them to make peak tire pealing power at all rpms, even while using a supercharger that is designed to produce more air as rpms get higher, and not as much at lower rpms, their power is still magically usable and flat, if you meet one of them, tell them to give me a call, im curious how they do it
I'm not going into detail here, but what you're doing is a bad idea. You will have higher IAT's, more parasitic loss from the blower, and increased possibility of belt slip.
04-21-2008, 05:16 AM
#70
The graph above is from an EPP built LS2/402/EPP cam on my Mustang Chassis Dyno at only 14.4 psi of boost with an F-1A ProCharger. Take a look at the torque at 2500 rpm! Bob
04-21-2008, 12:51 PM
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my internal air temps were 110 degress on a 70 degree day with the d1sc, and that was with the meth OFF, and the front mounted intercooler that is custom.... not doing its full duty bc the car is on a stationary dyno and no wind is actually hitting it, just a little fan. I thought about internal air temps a lot, and will keep my eye out. I can always go back down to the d1sc if things dont work out, so we will see. I dont feel its gonna be an issue tho.
as far as parasetic power loss... i guess im confused why procharger would even sell bigger blowers to the public if they hurt more than they gained... i know what yorue saying, but at the same time i dont. I feel like a year ago, i walked into the most negative thread on the interenet of people who know "everything about what im doing" even tho if any of you would have succeeded, you would still be using it on yoru car. I saw blatent obvoius benefits with the d1sc, and ill see more benefits with the f1r probably.
What part about an engine only holding a certain psi, lets say 20psi, and anything above that blowing head gaskets, or lifting the heads, etc.... what part about that concept seems so foreign here? Why is it so difficult for not one person on this thread to understand if you put a valve that limits that dangerous number, you can gear your sc to make even more boost and flow at lower rpms, and not surffer the fatal engine consiquences at the higher rpms. I guess im all done typing, i have other threads on this other place, i figured you guys would be somewhat interested, but it appears you already know its a horrible idea, so ill do you a favor and quit trying to burst your bubble. If anyone wants to know power gains from a maxed out d1sc, to a maxed out f1r, look me up elsewhere, the guys in this thread already know the anser, and its a horrible idea to upgrade, let alone put on a limiting valve to keep your engine safe after doing so. Cheers to the experts
as far as parasetic power loss... i guess im confused why procharger would even sell bigger blowers to the public if they hurt more than they gained... i know what yorue saying, but at the same time i dont. I feel like a year ago, i walked into the most negative thread on the interenet of people who know "everything about what im doing" even tho if any of you would have succeeded, you would still be using it on yoru car. I saw blatent obvoius benefits with the d1sc, and ill see more benefits with the f1r probably.
What part about an engine only holding a certain psi, lets say 20psi, and anything above that blowing head gaskets, or lifting the heads, etc.... what part about that concept seems so foreign here? Why is it so difficult for not one person on this thread to understand if you put a valve that limits that dangerous number, you can gear your sc to make even more boost and flow at lower rpms, and not surffer the fatal engine consiquences at the higher rpms. I guess im all done typing, i have other threads on this other place, i figured you guys would be somewhat interested, but it appears you already know its a horrible idea, so ill do you a favor and quit trying to burst your bubble. If anyone wants to know power gains from a maxed out d1sc, to a maxed out f1r, look me up elsewhere, the guys in this thread already know the anser, and its a horrible idea to upgrade, let alone put on a limiting valve to keep your engine safe after doing so. Cheers to the experts
04-21-2008, 03:42 PM
#72
my internal air temps were 110 degress on a 70 degree day with the d1sc, and that was with the meth OFF, and the front mounted intercooler that is custom.... not doing its full duty bc the car is on a stationary dyno and no wind is actually hitting it, just a little fan. I thought about internal air temps a lot, and will keep my eye out. I can always go back down to the d1sc if things dont work out, so we will see. I dont feel its gonna be an issue tho.
as far as parasetic power loss... i guess im confused why procharger would even sell bigger blowers to the public if they hurt more than they gained... i know what yorue saying, but at the same time i dont. I feel like a year ago, i walked into the most negative thread on the interenet of people who know "everything about what im doing" even tho if any of you would have succeeded, you would still be using it on yoru car. I saw blatent obvoius benefits with the d1sc, and ill see more benefits with the f1r probably.
What part about an engine only holding a certain psi, lets say 20psi, and anything above that blowing head gaskets, or lifting the heads, etc.... what part about that concept seems so foreign here? Why is it so difficult for not one person on this thread to understand if you put a valve that limits that dangerous number, you can gear your sc to make even more boost and flow at lower rpms, and not surffer the fatal engine consiquences at the higher rpms. I guess im all done typing, i have other threads on this other place, i figured you guys would be somewhat interested, but it appears you already know its a horrible idea, so ill do you a favor and quit trying to burst your bubble. If anyone wants to know power gains from a maxed out d1sc, to a maxed out f1r, look me up elsewhere, the guys in this thread already know the anser, and its a horrible idea to upgrade, let alone put on a limiting valve to keep your engine safe after doing so. Cheers to the experts
as far as parasetic power loss... i guess im confused why procharger would even sell bigger blowers to the public if they hurt more than they gained... i know what yorue saying, but at the same time i dont. I feel like a year ago, i walked into the most negative thread on the interenet of people who know "everything about what im doing" even tho if any of you would have succeeded, you would still be using it on yoru car. I saw blatent obvoius benefits with the d1sc, and ill see more benefits with the f1r probably.
What part about an engine only holding a certain psi, lets say 20psi, and anything above that blowing head gaskets, or lifting the heads, etc.... what part about that concept seems so foreign here? Why is it so difficult for not one person on this thread to understand if you put a valve that limits that dangerous number, you can gear your sc to make even more boost and flow at lower rpms, and not surffer the fatal engine consiquences at the higher rpms. I guess im all done typing, i have other threads on this other place, i figured you guys would be somewhat interested, but it appears you already know its a horrible idea, so ill do you a favor and quit trying to burst your bubble. If anyone wants to know power gains from a maxed out d1sc, to a maxed out f1r, look me up elsewhere, the guys in this thread already know the anser, and its a horrible idea to upgrade, let alone put on a limiting valve to keep your engine safe after doing so. Cheers to the experts
04-21-2008, 09:28 PM
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its ideal for cars that are built at higher altitudes that are running max psi for their engine and have a tune for only "x-psi" bc thats all their blower could make up on the mountain in colorado, and it allows them to drive off the mountain on a trip to the beach at sea level without harming their motors, and keeping their tune from becoming obsolete. But you and the 10,000 other experts already have that figured out and the patent rights to it too i supose.
This has to be one of the most humerous threads to read on this forum at this point
I love the word "experts"
You have a 9 sec car, sweet, so do i... not the one ive been talking about this whole time... but just bc we have 9 sec cars doesnt meen we know everything... my family also owns 12 car dealerships, but that doenst make me an expert on this either.... thats why we come on the forum to try and better our knowledge and learn. I dont mind objections or ideas or things to consider, but people like yourself who insult first and give advice why "im wrong, and its been tried 10,000 times".... you make it too easy for people like myself to put you in a position of weakness and now your ignorance is here for the whole world to read. Its your ego and self image, not mine... keep the "expert" advice coming so we have something to laugh at Ill keep making the ultimate streetable daily driver with as flat of power as possible, and keep it under 1000hp so that i dont have to snap parts left and right, and yet will make power down low as well. I know im losing top end power... im fully aware of that. I suppose your next piece of expert advice would be to just put in a cam that makes low end power, which i already do, and here again, youre still stuck with the same problem of popping yoru heads off your motor bc of too much psi. The other thing is the restriction against the blower is relieved bc im limiting the backpressure with the valve to 17psi.... and procharger says they are rated to 31+psi... and im not actually overspinning it, im right at the limit of their rps they suggest. But, im sure im wrong, lets hear the experts
This has to be one of the most humerous threads to read on this forum at this point
I love the word "experts"
You have a 9 sec car, sweet, so do i... not the one ive been talking about this whole time... but just bc we have 9 sec cars doesnt meen we know everything... my family also owns 12 car dealerships, but that doenst make me an expert on this either.... thats why we come on the forum to try and better our knowledge and learn. I dont mind objections or ideas or things to consider, but people like yourself who insult first and give advice why "im wrong, and its been tried 10,000 times".... you make it too easy for people like myself to put you in a position of weakness and now your ignorance is here for the whole world to read. Its your ego and self image, not mine... keep the "expert" advice coming so we have something to laugh at
Ill keep making the ultimate streetable daily driver with as flat of power as possible, and keep it under 1000hp so that i dont have to snap parts left and right, and yet will make power down low as well. I know im losing top end power... im fully aware of that. I suppose your next piece of expert advice would be to just put in a cam that makes low end power, which i already do, and here again, youre still stuck with the same problem of popping yoru heads off your motor bc of too much psi. The other thing is the restriction against the blower is relieved bc im limiting the backpressure with the valve to 17psi.... and procharger says they are rated to 31+psi... and im not actually overspinning it, im right at the limit of their rps they suggest. But, im sure im wrong, lets hear the experts
04-21-2008, 09:37 PM
#76
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If you are asking me, ill post the link to my build thread on corvette forum once i get all the pics up... i havent taken any pics of my car or posted any of them up yet, but my car was originally built by corvette connection in denver colorado, i bought it with about 13k miles on it last spring from the original owner, and now im doing my big sweep of upgrades. You can check the car in its original form from when i bought it at... http://www.vettepieces.com/customer_...5/Koppels.html
04-22-2008, 10:07 AM
#77
its ideal for cars that are built at higher altitudes that are running max psi for their engine and have a tune for only "x-psi" bc thats all their blower could make up on the mountain in colorado, and it allows them to drive off the mountain on a trip to the beach at sea level without harming their motors, and keeping their tune from becoming obsolete. But you and the 10,000 other experts already have that figured out and the patent rights to it too i supose.
This has to be one of the most humerous threads to read on this forum at this point
I love the word "experts"
You have a 9 sec car, sweet, so do i... not the one ive been talking about this whole time... but just bc we have 9 sec cars doesnt meen we know everything... my family also owns 12 car dealerships, but that doenst make me an expert on this either.... thats why we come on the forum to try and better our knowledge and learn. I dont mind objections or ideas or things to consider, but people like yourself who insult first and give advice why "im wrong, and its been tried 10,000 times".... you make it too easy for people like myself to put you in a position of weakness and now your ignorance is here for the whole world to read. Its your ego and self image, not mine... keep the "expert" advice coming so we have something to laugh at Ill keep making the ultimate streetable daily driver with as flat of power as possible, and keep it under 1000hp so that i dont have to snap parts left and right, and yet will make power down low as well. I know im losing top end power... im fully aware of that. I suppose your next piece of expert advice would be to just put in a cam that makes low end power, which i already do, and here again, youre still stuck with the same problem of popping yoru heads off your motor bc of too much psi. The other thing is the restriction against the blower is relieved bc im limiting the backpressure with the valve to 17psi.... and procharger says they are rated to 31+psi... and im not actually overspinning it, im right at the limit of their rps they suggest. But, im sure im wrong, lets hear the experts
This has to be one of the most humerous threads to read on this forum at this point
I love the word "experts"
You have a 9 sec car, sweet, so do i... not the one ive been talking about this whole time... but just bc we have 9 sec cars doesnt meen we know everything... my family also owns 12 car dealerships, but that doenst make me an expert on this either.... thats why we come on the forum to try and better our knowledge and learn. I dont mind objections or ideas or things to consider, but people like yourself who insult first and give advice why "im wrong, and its been tried 10,000 times".... you make it too easy for people like myself to put you in a position of weakness and now your ignorance is here for the whole world to read. Its your ego and self image, not mine... keep the "expert" advice coming so we have something to laugh at
Ill keep making the ultimate streetable daily driver with as flat of power as possible, and keep it under 1000hp so that i dont have to snap parts left and right, and yet will make power down low as well. I know im losing top end power... im fully aware of that. I suppose your next piece of expert advice would be to just put in a cam that makes low end power, which i already do, and here again, youre still stuck with the same problem of popping yoru heads off your motor bc of too much psi. The other thing is the restriction against the blower is relieved bc im limiting the backpressure with the valve to 17psi.... and procharger says they are rated to 31+psi... and im not actually overspinning it, im right at the limit of their rps they suggest. But, im sure im wrong, lets hear the experts I'll assume you're talking to me.
I assure you, the only one being laughed at here is you.
Its been explained a zillion times, but here goes again:
It takes "x" amount of power to drive a blower, and that value increases as boost pressure is increased. Of course, the blower makes alot more power than is being consumed by driving it, so its all good. Now, if you create a controlled boost leak (your valve), you are still using "x" amount of power to drive the blower but are only seeing a certain manifold pressure. Your theory is that the reduced boost psi will be easier on the engine. However, compressing air creates HEAT, and the more boost you make the more heat it makes. Heat can cause detonation. So while your blower might be pullied for 20 psi, and your valve may be limiting manifold pressure to, lets say, 15 psi, you are still going to have increased IAT's which are detrimental to performance, and possibly dangerous.
So lets say you make 900 RWHP at 20 psi, and lets say you make 750 RWHP at 15 psi- this is using the correct pullies, not your valve. Now, using your valve you manually adjust that 20 psi pulley ratio to make 15 psi. 1st off, the car isn't going to make 750 RWHP like it would with the correct pullies because you are using more power to turn the blower and you will likely have to reduce timing and/or increase fueling to compensate for your high IAT's.
You will also have a higher likelyhood of belt slip using the smaller high boost pullies. But lets not even worry about that.
There are some very experienced racers here (you know, the experts you won't listen to) who have used restrictor plates on the inlet side to limit boost pressure.
FWIW, this forum has members who are engineers at ATI and I believe Vortech. They have agreed in past threads that this is an ineffective method of "boost control".
Besides, it takes, what, 20 minutes to change a pulley?
What I don't understand is why you don't just run the power level you want and leave it?
04-22-2008, 11:06 AM
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I'll assume you're talking to me.
I assure you, the only one being laughed at here is you.
...Now, if you create a controlled boost leak (your valve), you are still using "x" amount of power to drive the blower but are only seeing a certain manifold pressure...
So lets say you make 900 RWHP at 20 psi, and lets say you make 750 RWHP at 15 psi- this is using the correct pullies, not your valve. Now, using your valve you manually adjust that 20 psi pulley ratio to make 15 psi. 1st off, the car isn't going to make 750 RWHP like it would with the correct pullies because you are using more power to turn the blower and you will likely have to reduce timing and/or increase fueling to compensate for your high IAT's....
What I don't understand is why you don't just run the power level you want and leave it?
I assure you, the only one being laughed at here is you.
...Now, if you create a controlled boost leak (your valve), you are still using "x" amount of power to drive the blower but are only seeing a certain manifold pressure...
So lets say you make 900 RWHP at 20 psi, and lets say you make 750 RWHP at 15 psi- this is using the correct pullies, not your valve. Now, using your valve you manually adjust that 20 psi pulley ratio to make 15 psi. 1st off, the car isn't going to make 750 RWHP like it would with the correct pullies because you are using more power to turn the blower and you will likely have to reduce timing and/or increase fueling to compensate for your high IAT's....
What I don't understand is why you don't just run the power level you want and leave it?
Good god, what part of.... i dont need over 1000 hp dont you understand? You are correct in the things you say above, but my point it, THAT IS WHAT I WANT.... lets change your numbers to 850hp and 1000hp instead.... and lets see if you cant get it this time
.....I DONT WANT 1000 hp, its useless.
I WANT as much low end power as possible.
Forget my valve is even on the car, lets take it off for a sec so its easy on your brain... no valve on the car. You have a 3 inch pulley, and a 4 inch pulley, 3 inches makes more boost.
Popquiz smartboy.... at 3000 rpm, only having different pulleys in the car.... which setup will provide my car more power at 3000rpm? 3 inch, or 4 inch?
The correct answer is 3 inch. Ill have more power at 3 inches than 4 inches at 3000 rpm
BUT WAIT... THERES A NEGATIVE TRADEOFF TO THE 3 INCH PULLEY!
UH OH, I KNOW THE BAD SIDE OF THE 3 INCH IS IT IS GOING TO CREATE TOO MUCH PRESSURE AT TOP END, AND HURT MY MOTOR... DAMN, IF ONLY THERE WAS A WAY TO GET RID OF SOME OF THE BOOST, I DONT EVEN NEED A 1000 HP ANYWAY, 850 WOULD BE PLENTY, EITHER WAY IM BURNING RUBBER. IF ONLY THERE WAS A SOLUTION......
DO I HAVE TO KEEP GOING OR DOES YOUR WALLNUT GET IT YET?
04-22-2008, 11:18 AM
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i think this convo is as productive as arguing polotics with an opposing political party.... its nothing but ego at this point, theres no way your actually dont understand the logic behind this, so you stand your ground, and say youre right to tell me im wrong and my idea is useless, and ill leave your thread alone, im serious, this is my last post, if anyone has any questions about my setup, please just message me in private and ill be more than happy to explain it without smartboy telling us we are wrong, and ill let you know what my f1r vs my d1sc puts to the ground... with the 4 inch pulley, and with the 3 inch pulley with my valve active, thanks, brandon
04-22-2008, 05:43 PM
#80
Good god, what part of.... i dont need over 1000 hp dont you understand? You are correct in the things you say above, but my point it, THAT IS WHAT I WANT.... lets change your numbers to 850hp and 1000hp instead.... and lets see if you cant get it this time .....
I DONT WANT 1000 hp, its useless.
I WANT as much low end power as possible.
Forget my valve is even on the car, lets take it off for a sec so its easy on your brain... no valve on the car. You have a 3 inch pulley, and a 4 inch pulley, 3 inches makes more boost.
Popquiz smartboy.... at 3000 rpm, only having different pulleys in the car.... which setup will provide my car more power at 3000rpm? 3 inch, or 4 inch?
The correct answer is 3 inch. Ill have more power at 3 inches than 4 inches at 3000 rpm
BUT WAIT... THERES A NEGATIVE TRADEOFF TO THE 3 INCH PULLEY!
UH OH, I KNOW THE BAD SIDE OF THE 3 INCH IS IT IS GOING TO CREATE TOO MUCH PRESSURE AT TOP END, AND HURT MY MOTOR... DAMN, IF ONLY THERE WAS A WAY TO GET RID OF SOME OF THE BOOST, I DONT EVEN NEED A 1000 HP ANYWAY, 850 WOULD BE PLENTY, EITHER WAY IM BURNING RUBBER. IF ONLY THERE WAS A SOLUTION......
DO I HAVE TO KEEP GOING OR DOES YOUR WALLNUT GET IT YET?
.....I DONT WANT 1000 hp, its useless.
I WANT as much low end power as possible.
Forget my valve is even on the car, lets take it off for a sec so its easy on your brain... no valve on the car. You have a 3 inch pulley, and a 4 inch pulley, 3 inches makes more boost.
Popquiz smartboy.... at 3000 rpm, only having different pulleys in the car.... which setup will provide my car more power at 3000rpm? 3 inch, or 4 inch?
The correct answer is 3 inch. Ill have more power at 3 inches than 4 inches at 3000 rpm
BUT WAIT... THERES A NEGATIVE TRADEOFF TO THE 3 INCH PULLEY!
UH OH, I KNOW THE BAD SIDE OF THE 3 INCH IS IT IS GOING TO CREATE TOO MUCH PRESSURE AT TOP END, AND HURT MY MOTOR... DAMN, IF ONLY THERE WAS A WAY TO GET RID OF SOME OF THE BOOST, I DONT EVEN NEED A 1000 HP ANYWAY, 850 WOULD BE PLENTY, EITHER WAY IM BURNING RUBBER. IF ONLY THERE WAS A SOLUTION......
DO I HAVE TO KEEP GOING OR DOES YOUR WALLNUT GET IT YET?
Holy **** you're stupid.
If you pulley a blower setup for 850 RWHP, its going to make crazy power at 3000 RPM anyway. Not to mention the RPM's will climb extremely fast.
Lets look at it like this, since I actually have experience with this: My car makes 13 psi max boost. I start the dyno pull at 3500 RPM. At 3500, once floored, the car instantly makes 10-11 psi and well over 500 RWHP. Boost and power come up VERY fast, making 740 at 6500 RPM. So lets say I pulley it for 16 PSI to make 850. I might make another 50 HP at 3500 RPM, maybe not even that much (remember that parasitic lag?). In trade for that few horsepower I get high IAT's, possible belt slip, and more drag on the motor.
We won't even talk about what will happen when your valve sticks.
Since you're free with the name calling and insults, here's a big "**** you" to you. Prove me wrong and maybe someone will listen to you. Your dumbass idea had no business in my thread anyway.
Have a nice day moron.