wildta

iTrader: (1)

I like the way it sits so far Forward!

I would like to see one on a F-body!

IFRYRCE

iTrader: (3)

I've always wanted a whipple, but I refuse to buy a ford. If you're serious about this fitting on F-bodies, you've already got one order.

big reg

iTrader: (28)

Please let us know more about this. I have been emailing a few companies exploring this idea as I will def be a future customer if this can happen. Almost sprang for the Maggie kit but 500-550rwhp in ideal conditions with a H/C car for 6500 is not worth it in my book.

Anyone coming up with a F-body 2.3 or 3.4 Whipple kit with minimal cowl mods or hacking gets a future customer, several I am assuming.

Look at all the fly by night companies that came on here offering turbo setups to no avail. They got more orders than they could handle and eventually buckled under the pressure. The market is def there for a kit like this.

rjw

iTrader: (3)

No cowl hacks here..if I do it, it will be done right.

When you see some of the detail, innovations and most importantly results of this setup, you'll know it's the REAL DEAL and a quality piece of workmanship.

So...let me just get this one finished and then BRING ON the F bodies!!

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

I bet there are some truck guys that would like a 3.3L whipple.

wildta

iTrader: (1)

Could you take more pictures for us. I would like to see the other side with the throttle body.

RJW, Where are you located?

Thanks Warren

BawlsZ28

iTrader: (11)

A shop in Broomfield, Colorado named Dragon Race Engineering already has a setup for a whipple on C5/C6 vettes that fits under the stock hood, has an air to water IC, and patents pending. Works really well, I have seen them in person. Good luck!

Quik

iTrader: (7)

and to think i sold my headers....

rjw

iTrader: (3)

Did you look closely?

1) Not A/W....A/A with long runs over rad (they claim 4" dia. when it isn't)
2) Only for C6 at this point.
3) Blower sits right over right side header or exhaust manifold.

You think that it works real well?....Ok

I'll put this up against that setup any time with respect to power, throttle response, IAT's and overall engine temps (fmic on a vette is not a good idea)

By the way, there are at least 2 or 3 others making whipple kits for Lsx engines. A few in Australia. There is a post on this forum by VooDoo who has been developing a GTO kit for at least the last 4 months as well.

So the good news is maybe a few f-body options in the near future.

I welcome them all with open arms. When the smoke clears, we'll all see what does what and who is left standing.

BawlsZ28

iTrader: (11)

Wow, you are very opinionated in your claims. You also talk some big game for somebody who doesn't even have a kit finished. I like both kits, just not your attitude and claims. Why not settle this, and bring your kit to Colorado when finished and we can see which performs the best??? . Then we can post it up here and everybody else will benefit? Let me know, I'll be sure to forward this to the shop!!

BawlsZ28

iTrader: (11)

rjw: I'll put this up against that setup any time with respect to power, throttle response, IAT's and overall engine temps (fmic on a vette is not a good idea)

Really? FMIC is not good on a vette?..hmmm there are vettes here in colorado that pass emissions and run 9's at Bandimere Speedway w/FMIC and a DA of 6000+...must be really inefficient.
Guess they should ditch the FMIC and maybe they will get 8's up here!! haha

rjw

iTrader: (3)

Before this spirals into the abyss, let me ask you what the purpose and attitude of your FIRST post was?

Let me quote you:

A shop in Broomfield, Colorado named Dragon Race Engineering already has a setup for a whipple on C5/C6 vettes that fits under the stock hood, has an air to water IC, and patents pending. Works really well, I have seen them in person. Good luck!

Look at what you posted and ask yourself if that didn't sound like maybe you have a slight attitude.

Please refer to the items in bold.

1) already could be taken as don't bother it's already been done.

2) C5/C6 This is mis-information, because they currently only have a C6 kit and they also are not currently responding to inquiry posts on the vette forum. leading many to believe that it will not happen

3) Fits under stock hood, again telling us that it's been done so don't bother

4) Air water IC...mis-information again

5) patents pending...are you trying to scare me..I have some pending as well...so what?

6) I've seen them in person...and you couldn't tell that it had an A/A Ic with 2 large tubes going over the rad?

7) Finally you say Good luck with an exclamation point...as in nice try?

Now did I get anything wrong or mis-interpret what you wrote and how I took it?

Before responding, maybe we could both just say that we mis-understood each others attitude and try to offer constructive rather than destructive criticism.

I will assume that you would agree, and I will explain my statements.

While some drag race, most use their cars as a daily driver or maybe a combo of drag/road race and dd.

In that you mentioned drag racing, which do you think would show colder IAT's? Remembering that you can ice down an A/W setup.

My opinion on FMIC's, A/A vs A/W is simply this:

A single fmic in front of a vette rad is asking for trouble, at least anywhere that I have been where temps are high , such as here in South Florida. maybe in Colorado things are different.

If you want to go A/A, then go with twin IC's and keep the front of the rad/condenser free. This keeps the car from running hotter. It also eliminates the need to upgrade the rad and/or fans. There are countless posts about vette owners overheating with single fmic's as daily drivers and road racers as well. Most looking for big power seem to be going to twins. Spend the rad/fan money on a good oil cooler and not one in the rad.(again jmo)

While I do feel that A/A setups in most cases are simpler, cheaper and a better solution for a street or road race application, I also feel that A/W setups are mis-understood by many people.

I won't get into a long discussion about how water transfers better than air, etc. because most of us know that the biggest problem with A/W setups is HEATSOAK.

Maggies, KB's etc. have one thing in common. You can open the reservoir when the IAT's are through the roof and the water is maybe tepid at best. This is a sign that the IC under the blower is simply NOT doing a good job of removing heat created by the blower.

With my IC, you cannot put a finger in the ressy for more than a second without getting scorched...I'll let you decide why.

With respect to throttle response

T-response is directly affected by throttled volume...all of the air between the tb and the intake valves. It is a well known fact that LESS t-volume = better more instant t-response.

so , if we are evaluating a system with an A/A IC and tb before the blower , then we have to include the run of pipe from the tb to the blower, the blower itself, the run to the IC, the IC itself, the run from the IC to the intake manifold and the volume of the manifold itself.

Compare all that to a setup where tb is bolted to back of blower, and Ic is sandwhiched between the blower and the manifold and...

Once again...you figure it out.

Also note that most turbos and centris don't put the tb before the blower and piping, but the Dragon and some others do. so when someone tells you that throttle response is like stock or better on a system with a long intake tract, you need to ask if they are 'Buying or selling'

It is also a known fact that anything you can do to remove restrictions in the inlet tract will cause the system to create MORE boost. This is why adding a larger tb for example creates more power in many cases.

Once again, compare the parasitic drag of a long intake tract compared to my setup and draw your own conclusions.

So, while you may assume that my attitude is not so good, let's look at my claims again and I quote:

I'll put this up against that setup any time with respect to power, throttle response, IAT's and overall engine temps (fmic on a vette is not a good idea)

Feel free to respond, but please let's do it in a civil manner....then we can all share info and learn from each other without the attitude.

Thanks



btw: I am posting all this on this forum, because while I can't speak for some others, my setup should fit f-bodies and gto's and I thought that this would be of interest to many here.

I also mentioned that there were others making LSx kits as well. While I haven't finished the testing on my prototype, I am trying to show that twin screw solutions are and will be available for a lot of people here on this forum.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

Wouldn't happen to have the measurements would you? I'd like to go out to the garage right now and see if it will fit either under the cowl or if it's short enough to just miss the cowl , F-body of course..

Dan

rjw

iTrader: (3)

Can you tell me some measurements in that you have a car right there. How far from a fixed pint on the engine, such as say the back of the belt to the cowl. Maybe a pciture or two. Also, height from top of block to underside of hood at lowest point would be good as well.

remember this....In my pics, this is on a C5. the pulleys on the f body are further forward than on my y body, which is good news, cause I can move the blower even further forward than what you see in my pictures.

I think that the cowl should be no problem, its the various hoods that I need to look at.

wildta

iTrader: (1)

I bet it would fir under the Ram Air Hood !!!

Z06PSI

iTrader: (33)

Good job RJW. Spreading the love to the F-body community.

RJW has the resources to make the intercooler/manifold so it will fit. Other companies do not want to take the time because it would be an effort on a dead platform that is already 5 years old past production with a brand new model only 1 year away. What kind of business sense does that make. A forward fitting manifold will work, someone just needs to do it and it seems he is going to try it so cut the guy some slack.

BTW RJW don't forget us Corvette guys in your toying with the F-body setup because I might buy one of your setups for the Z06. If you are offering of course.

Oh and another thing guys I am sure this won't be a budget kit like so many of you want. I could be wrong though.

SScott

iTrader: (21)

$$$=Speed

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

Let me go out to the garage and see what I can get for you..

Dan

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

I don't have the regular serpintine setup on my car so I just took the measurement from the crank>alt belt. This is from the edge of the plastic cowl part (since it's the outer most part) to the back of the belt:




Pic looking forward into the cowl. It's approximately 8 1/4- 8 1/2" from the top of the valley cover to the lowest part of the cowl:


Some different views:




This is a shot of my cowl hood, I really don't know how to get a measurement from the block to top of hood:



Dan

big reg

iTrader: (28)

I am willing to bet most smart people realize this would not be a budget kit. I would assume in the 6500-7k range to be safe. A price I am def willing to pay for a Twin Screw F-body.