Procharger Install Help
Procharger Install Help I have a couple questions about installing a Procharger. Are most guys running a catch can or do you run the pcv line straight to the inlet hat? Where are you getting your vac/boost source from for the bypass valve? I have a 00 WS6 and I couldn't get the AIR pump to fit with prochargers bracket. Has everyone just deleted the AIR or did they figure out how to mount it? Thanks!
I am very much interested in that answer too. But from what i read most people just yank the PCV system for 2 monster Breathers. I am working with a 13 to 1 comp 402 LS2 motor and he had to ditch the PCV, soo much pressure in the case.
The AIR pump will fit if you have the right year bracket, the 98s were different so make sure you have the correct piece.
Just take it all off if you dont have to pass emmisions, block off the heders/exhaust manifolds and have all the AIR codes deleted when you get it tuned.
You need to have a check valve on the PCV line if you use a PCV, I use a catch can and a pcv + check valve on mine. Search around for it, there are several ways to do it and a very popular subject..
Just take it all off if you dont have to pass emmisions, block off the heders/exhaust manifolds and have all the AIR codes deleted when you get it tuned.
You need to have a check valve on the PCV line if you use a PCV, I use a catch can and a pcv + check valve on mine. Search around for it, there are several ways to do it and a very popular subject..
First, I did what kp did with the pcv but with alittle modification. I ran the existing pcv line to a catch can, then to a one-way check valve(needed so you don't boost the crankcase), and then to the side of the intake. Now for the tricky one. If you read in the instructions from Procharger you will see that the line from the front of the passenger side valve cover to the throttlebody is to be disconnected and run to the inlet hat on the blower. I also added a catchcan to this line. This line will pull/vent any pressure from the crankcase during boost. However the catch is this, during vac the motor is pulling upwards of 20 inches of vacuum. This is pulling through the pcv line from one end of the valve cover to the other. Hence pulling a vacuum through the line that connects to the inlet of the blower. Now picture you are driving in the rain and the blower is sucking water through the filter and the water settles in the bottom of the inlet hat, which is the same place this line connects to the hat. So now you are pulling a vacuum from this spot which is full of water directly into your motor. I'm not shitting you, its happened to me twice now.
Second, just take your air pump out completely
Second, just take your air pump out completely
As far as the vac reference for the bypass valve I have it running up to my vac/boost block I got from McMaster Carr. I spliced it into the brake booster line. You can see it in this pic up next to where the fuel lines enter the fuel rail covers. That small vac line goes to the bypass valve
I use the vac block to get my boost/vac reference for my bypass valve, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, and boost gauge. It works nice since its all in one spot.
I use the vac block to get my boost/vac reference for my bypass valve, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, and boost gauge. It works nice since its all in one spot.
Originally Posted by No Juice
As far as the vac reference for the bypass valve I have it running up to my vac/boost block I got from McMaster Carr. I spliced it into the brake booster line. You can see it in this pic up next to where the fuel lines enter the fuel rail covers. That small vac line goes to the bypass valve
I use the vac block to get my boost/vac reference for my bypass valve, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, and boost gauge. It works nice since its all in one spot.
I use the vac block to get my boost/vac reference for my bypass valve, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, and boost gauge. It works nice since its all in one spot.
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