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APS f body install thread, tips,tricks,pics,etc.

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Old Aug 18, 2007 | 06:24 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TAQuickness

calongo - you might be able to use a 5th jackstand (truck stand or stand on blocks) to support the engine while you swap the k-memeber.
where? I've been thinking about putting one under the balancer just for while I've got the oil pan off, then putting a jack back under the oil pan. I'm also thinking about using one of those engine strap things designed for trans axle cars that go across the strut towers.
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Old Aug 18, 2007 | 07:04 PM
  #22  
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if u look at APS install guide they have a support on the crank pulley. I'm sure if u used a jack stand or jack with a big piece of wood like a 4x4 up in there it would work. maybe u could cut a curve out of it so it would be more secure. OR just use a jack stand to hold it up.


Last edited by Screamin_Z; Aug 18, 2007 at 07:10 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2007 | 07:44 PM
  #23  
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Guys I tried to get office type store to print the instructions. But when they printed them they chopped off the page at right side. The woman and she didn't seem to bright said there was nothing they could do about it. Is that true or is there something to set so it prints and dont chop words. She said the pdf would be better but its not available yet.
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Old Aug 18, 2007 | 08:03 PM
  #24  
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Brains converted the install instructions to a PDF, there's a link in one of the APS F-body threads.
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Old Aug 18, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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Great thanks.will check that out and get it printed.
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #26  
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My install will begin very soon. I wanted to wait until after the Woodward Dream Cruise. Now I have to drive and run the tank down near empty so I can drop it easier. I printed off the install instructions. But had to format the page to landscape instead of portrait. That allowed all of the text with no cutting off of the RH side. It was 188 pages that way. Ha ha. I am planning to do everthing in my garage on jackstands. So we'll see how it goes. Probably will also use jackstands to support the engine/trans when the k-member is out. I will be pulling the oil pan to tap those holes and also replace the gasket as it looks like it has some small leaks. Just need some valve springs and I will have everything I need to bolt all of this together. Fuel system, k-member, etc are all on the workbench already. I ordered my k-member months ago when I put the deposit down on this kit. Glad I did now.

Brains, I wish I knew you were going to be in KC a few weekends ago. That would have been cool to catch up with you and discuss install plans of these kits. We raced Friday night. I was on the Motown Muscle crew with the Thunderstang! Maybe another time. But by then my kit should already be in the car.

Painted my lettering Orange to match the car, so ready to go!

Last edited by Hugger Z; Aug 19, 2007 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 11:54 AM
  #27  
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Thats pretty pimp painting the Logo like that. I may do the same.What paint did you use? Well I'lll start pulling the bumper today and take pictures of my set up and workshop. And yes I Really did forget about the wedding last night. Good thing I went had so much fun with my friend BUD LIGHT.
And today I have a baby shower to go to at 3pm so I'll only get about 2 hours of work time in and then I'll head back out to the shop.

Question. so in order to pull the tank I remove the exhaust and unbolt the clamp straps and it will slowly fall down. Is there enough room for the lines to come down with it so I can get my hand in there and disconnect them?
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 03:46 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by KWIKKAR
Thats pretty pimp painting the Logo like that. I may do the same.What paint did you use?
I just used the same ceramic high temp brake paint I painted my calipers with. Used a small detail brush to paint the lettering and voila. Came out pretty good and will match my car! I may still clear it. Just not sure if I want to clear the whole neck or just the lettering.
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 04:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by KWIKKAR
Thats pretty pimp painting the Logo like that. I may do the same.What paint did you use? Well I'lll start pulling the bumper today and take pictures of my set up and workshop. And yes I Really did forget about the wedding last night. Good thing I went had so much fun with my friend BUD LIGHT.
And today I have a baby shower to go to at 3pm so I'll only get about 2 hours of work time in and then I'll head back out to the shop.

Question. so in order to pull the tank I remove the exhaust and unbolt the clamp straps and it will slowly fall down. Is there enough room for the lines to come down with it so I can get my hand in there and disconnect them?

yes there is enough slack in the line...but I guess it depends on how high ur car is going to be. I had mine not too far off the ground when I put my racetronix plug and play in....I love that kit.

oh, btw...u need to get ur priorities in line. getting this kit on ur car should be first over everything. I'm sure the wife and kids will understand (if u have any)
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 04:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by KWIKKAR
Question. so in order to pull the tank I remove the exhaust and unbolt the clamp straps and it will slowly fall down. Is there enough room for the lines to come down with it so I can get my hand in there and disconnect them?
Yes, you can lower it enough to get to the connections. I used my trans jack to support the tank, a floor jack with a block of wood will work too. The bolts holding the tank straps feel like they are a mile long if you are using hand tools!

I just unpacked all my APS stuff and took inventory. All the parts seem to be here (comparing to the BOM on the APS site). I won't be installing until winter.
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by KWIKKAR
Yeah I have AFR 225 72cc heads. and going with Gm MLS 7.0L LS7 gaskets. How can I up the boost without a boost controller? Do I need to change out the springs. I can't drive my car right now anyways. So I may as well start on it. Besides its going to take me longer than a week or so.
If you don't have a boost controller than you will need to fit higher poundage waste gate springs...........contact Tial or a Tial dealer direct to purchase higher poundage springs.

Peter
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 09:06 PM
  #32  
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Is 10 psi a good safe number for boost for a stock bottom end?
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 09:26 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by KWIKKAR
Is 10 psi a good safe number for boost for a stock bottom end?
u can do it, the question u should be asking is how long will it last.
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 09:37 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by KWIKKAR
Is 10 psi a good safe number for boost for a stock bottom end?
On what fuel octane?

Peter
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 10:07 PM
  #35  
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question has the umi k member been test fitted yet?
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 10:10 PM
  #36  
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I use 93 octane here.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #37  
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I think 10 with good safe tuning might work with your heads bringing down the compression. I would buy an good alc kit for extra insurance and keep timing and afr very reasonable and safe. I would for sure not go past 10psi personally on non forged bottom end.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 09:34 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by KWIKKAR
I use 93 octane here.
If you're runing 93 octane with the stock static comp ratio (with no meth injection) then I would not run more than 10 PSI with a safe tuning strategy. It's critcal that you keep the afr around 11:1 at peak torque and no leaner than 11.5:1 at peak power and the ignition timing retard is also extremely important to ensure you avoid any detonation.

Peter
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 09:36 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by flash12t
question has the umi k member been test fitted yet?
Not that I know of though one of the forum guys may know the answer to your question.

Peter
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Old Aug 21, 2007 | 02:50 PM
  #40  
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... for the WS6 guys that are installing the APS twin turbo kit.

This may be a dumb idea, but I admit, it has crossed my mind.

Has anyone thought about modifying the hood close to the firewall, down low where you can not see it, to allow air to pass through under the hood from the Ram Air inlets to the back of the hood allowing heat extraction from in engine bay? If it’s done right you would not be able to see it except when you’re in the car. Heat should be forced/sucked up over the window while you're driving.

Stupid idea???

Last edited by bigblueturtle; Aug 21, 2007 at 02:57 PM.
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