FATALZ06

With the help of some friends Im about to start a very radical turbo build for my C5 Z06. I plan on building a very stout 402 and arm it with twin 76mm turbos, however I have a few questions before we start.

First I was wondering if you guys thought I could get away with an aluminum LS2 block as opposed to an iron 6.0L block? I am shooting for at least 1200-1300 rwhp, but I would like to save a little extra weight as well as staying away from heatsoke. I have seen cars with 1000rwhp running aluminum blocks, but im not sure how long they lasted or if they were already being pushed to the limits.

Secondly what type of heads are you guys running, and what are you guys doing to help combat lifting of the heads under high boost? We plan on adding thicker head studs but is there something else that could be done as well?

Any information or other suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

You will need to shoot for a 8.0-8.2 CR and open chamber heads will be the best. As for an aluminum block, the Dart has 2 extra head bolts per cyl. to help keep the heads from lifting. The Dart block & heads will not result in anymore power, but are what I believe to be the strongest LS based available for FI builds. You are going to need over 22# of boost to achieve the numbers you want & the cost of this build is going to be pretty hefty. Remember, the trans & rear need to hold it & the car needs to stop, so don't scrimp on the brakes. For crank & rods, nothing but the strongest $ can buy....Callies is my preference. We have a 2004 Z06 w/over 1,000 RWHP at 19lbs that is almost finished and the owner has realized that it is far more power to drive on the street than he had anticipated, so it is for sale. Our dragsters run 1,000 HP 565's (we send our techs to Reher Morrison engine bldg school in TX) and although they are not FI, they are launched at 6400 & we shift at 7400 & the Callies hold up very well. Give us a call if you want info in detail....but remember, your end result will be like nothing else you can imagine driven on the street. BE SAFE! (we offer pick-up & delivery anywhere in the US with an enclosed rig).

Tracy


813-628-0080.

SUPERBOOST

iTrader: (11)

You definitely need after market heads, which you are probably doing any way at that power level,for their thicker decks and superior sealing ability.You need over size head studs wich you already mentioned.I"ve been told by several experts in the business to stay around 800 rw hp on the aluminum block.You can definitely can make more,some people are and will probably argue this point,but for 13-1400 hp,carry the extra 70-80 lbs and forget about it!

FATALZ06

SUPERBOOST you may be right about staying clear of the aluminum block. The iron block is another 70-80lbs, but alot more piece of mind.

As for cranks Ive heard good things about Callies as well as Lunati. I have yet to really look into them, but I need to. We plan on building the motor first, and try not to overlook anything. I will then need to finish getting the trans, rearend, and supension seriously beefed up. Nothing about this is going to be easy or cheap thats for sure.

SUPERBOOST

iTrader: (11)

If you are on an unlimited budget the sky is the limit,go for an after market six head bolt block like the dart or world warhawk and get the best rods,pistons,crank and heads money can buy!If you are like most of us and dont have unlimited funds you can save a lot of money for a weight penalty of about 70 lbs.Your hp goals will be quite expensive no matter which way you go.For engine specifics you need to provide more info like,what are you going to do with this car when its done?Will it be a street car,drag car,some of both(probably)if so there will be compromises.You will have to replace or reuild every major componet in the car,engine,tramsmission, rear suspension, possibly even the cooling system.Give some more info on your goals,there are some guys on here that really know there stuff about forced induction,Iam sure they will give you some good advice.

FATALZ06

I work out of town alot so the car only gets driven three or four times a month right now. I want it to be able to hit the streets but it will see a lot of track time. Corvettes aren't the best drag cars so I don't really care to much about et's. If the mph is there I will be happy. The car will look mostly stock, but I want it to blow peoples minds with its brute power. The car right now is a 500hp NA car with 4:10's, and almost everything in it will be replaced. I have a nine second streetbike that I would like the car to easily beat from a roll, but most of all I want this thing to be fun.

SUPERBOOST

iTrader: (11)

Yes the corvette poses some special problems with the irs and the transmission but on the good side its 3-400lbs lighter than the f body.I know a local guy who has a twin turbo 99 vette (56mm)who drives his to the strip with the air on,runs high nines and drives it back home.Pretty good in my book!

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

since you don't want to build a true, dedicated track car; them i would suggest an iron block, and never look back. It may weigh more, but the brute strength your gaining with the iron will, atleast, allow you to sleep better at night.

Now, if you have the cash flow, I wouldn't hesitate and do the world block and heads. If you really want to push that much rwhp, and not lift heads without busting out secret track tips, do the world stuff. Now, if your budget is not up-to-par with that idea, then you might want to possible consider o-ringing the heads, larger studs, open chambers, etc.

For internals, Callies is what I run. Shoot for a C.R. closer to 8.3:1 than 8.9:1. With the 408ci motor, it shouldn't be so sluggish when off boost. With that, your biggest decision factor is what turbo, wheels, a/r you want to run. With a 408ci and twin t76's, your gonna have more than enough power to be in the low 9's, 8's if you can get the power down.

Honestly, there is NO TIRE OUT THERE that is going to give you any confidence driving around a car like on the street with that much power, unless you want to spend more money on the rear suspension and tube out the rears and run 30" slicks all day.

With a project like this, your gonna spend a crap more on the supporting stuff than on the meat and potatoes of the build. Don't skimp on fuel, suspension, trans, oiling, etc. Again, if your looking for a car that is going to absolutely make your passengers **** in their pants, and still feel confortable driving something that sorta hooks... shoot for 800-900rwhp... tops! If your going to the track, than test and tune and turn it up... but on the street.... i dont think I would feel ok driving around with 1000rwhp and not be a bit hesitant in smashing the go pedal. 700rwhp is plenty to scare people with... imagine 800-900rwhp?!

Now, its your build, so build what makes you happy.. but if your gonna build it, do it right and consider keeping yourself alive when driving the beast!!

laterZ!

mdhmi

iTrader: (1)

Yep. And you can do that with 650-700 rwhp.

I just chuckle when I see these "Street Car" 1,000+ rwhp Vette build ups.