Is bigger better?
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
Is bigger better? Have a F1C on the way and need to begin planning a forged engine build. It doesn't cost much more to go from 364 to 402 to 427 to 454 (reletively speaking). what is the best bore stroke combo?
Originally Posted by john_sblendorio
Have a F1C on the way and need to begin planning a forged engine build. It doesn't cost much more to go from 364 to 402 to 427 to 454 (reletively speaking). what is the best bore stroke combo?
402-427 1300-3000 diffrence
427-454 600 or so
Its a huge jump between them.
All depends on what block you use, lsx,ls7,wet sleeve, drysleeve
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
...right, I guess I should have worded my question differently. the rotating assemblies are roughly the same price, everything else to support bigger cubes gets expensive quickly.
Question - is there any disadvantage towards going with more bore / stroke? I could easiestly and least expensively just swap my pistons, rings / rods for forged components, however while I am there I could also do a 4" stroker crank and go 402ci. Alternately, I could sell my short block and go with a LS7 with a short stroke / big bore 383 or 427. For not much more I could also go with a 4.125/4.125 441ci.
It is a lot less expensive to build once vs. start off with something and have to change later, hence the reason I asked the question initially.
Question - is there any disadvantage towards going with more bore / stroke? I could easiestly and least expensively just swap my pistons, rings / rods for forged components, however while I am there I could also do a 4" stroker crank and go 402ci. Alternately, I could sell my short block and go with a LS7 with a short stroke / big bore 383 or 427. For not much more I could also go with a 4.125/4.125 441ci.
It is a lot less expensive to build once vs. start off with something and have to change later, hence the reason I asked the question initially.
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Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
In the late 90s, Lingenfelter thought that a 383 with the longer rods was the way to go. Not sure if he still feels that way.
He probably doesn't "feel that way" at all, given that he's dead and all.
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From: Sarasota, FL
Considering the total cost of a good FI build (engine plus FI system plus cooling plus...), plus the needed mods to the car, it really isn't that much more to go big.
An F1-C is an awful big blower. Why would you even want it for anything under a 402? The thing is rated at 1225 max hp. If you're not going for at least 800, it's probably not the optimal choice.
If you want an aluminum block buy one of Katech's Value 427 shortblocks. If you want an iron block go with an LSX build. Even then, I wouldn't bore it too far, nor go over 4" stroke. If it were mine, I'd do a 427.
An F1-C is an awful big blower. Why would you even want it for anything under a 402? The thing is rated at 1225 max hp. If you're not going for at least 800, it's probably not the optimal choice.
If you want an aluminum block buy one of Katech's Value 427 shortblocks. If you want an iron block go with an LSX build. Even then, I wouldn't bore it too far, nor go over 4" stroke. If it were mine, I'd do a 427.
Last edited by Gannet; Aug 22, 2007 at 05:17 PM.
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From: Texas / 427ci F1R 1,002 rwhp/928 rwtq
I was thinking either a Katech 427 short block or a Warhawk 427 with ETP LS7 heads. Craig at ET said I could spin stainless valves up to 7500 rpm's with stainless valves and Cadilac racing lifters without a problem.
Last edited by john_sblendorio; Aug 23, 2007 at 12:24 AM.