Eboost-2 questions
Eboost-2 questions Hey, well i got my Eboost-2 in from Jose, very nice set up. Now i have all the vacuum lines figured out and how i will run those, but i am a little confused on some of the wiring...
- What are the green and orange wires for? It says they wire to an external switch and ground... what is it for, do you need them wired?
- Red goes to to the supplied 5 amp fuse, then just to power correct?
- Yellow goes to RPM signal, what are you guys using for this?
- White is shows going to a 2 amp relay, but then to what?
- Brown and Grey to the solenoid, doesnt matter which wire it goes to of the 2 on the solenoid does it?
-Are you using these auxilary devices as well that it shows?
Sorry for the newbiness, im just not very good with electrical and want to make sure i hook it up right. If someone has the time, could you post up exactly how your wires are connected? Thanks a lot!
- What are the green and orange wires for? It says they wire to an external switch and ground... what is it for, do you need them wired?
- Red goes to to the supplied 5 amp fuse, then just to power correct?
- Yellow goes to RPM signal, what are you guys using for this?
- White is shows going to a 2 amp relay, but then to what?
- Brown and Grey to the solenoid, doesnt matter which wire it goes to of the 2 on the solenoid does it?
-Are you using these auxilary devices as well that it shows?
Sorry for the newbiness, im just not very good with electrical and want to make sure i hook it up right. If someone has the time, could you post up exactly how your wires are connected? Thanks a lot!
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Last edited by Superman09; Sep 2, 2007 at 09:21 AM.
green and orange are to externally activate different set point by grounding the wires. look at the bottom of page 24 in the manual
red would go to a switched 12v supply, or you could hook specifically to your gauges power in the fuse box
yellow connect if you plan on having rpm dependent output or set point triggering, refer to page 23 for most of that
white is your aux output.. this can trigger a relay that controls anything like a methanol kit etc.
brown and grey polarity doesnt matter
the aux stuff like the led's i dont use, but those are just more aux outputs really
red would go to a switched 12v supply, or you could hook specifically to your gauges power in the fuse box
yellow connect if you plan on having rpm dependent output or set point triggering, refer to page 23 for most of that
white is your aux output.. this can trigger a relay that controls anything like a methanol kit etc.
brown and grey polarity doesnt matter
the aux stuff like the led's i dont use, but those are just more aux outputs really
Thanks mr mouse, ill leave the green and orange untouched for now as well as the white, if i find i want to use those options later, then i'll hook them up. So basically all i have to worry about is the 2 wires to the solenoid, the ground, the power, and rpm since i would like to program via boost vs rpm. Cool!
As for the RPM connection, where are you guys making that? Thanks!
As for the RPM connection, where are you guys making that? Thanks!
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bump still for the answer. I cant find a source to look up the info i need. I need to know where to hook up my yellow wire at (RPM)
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Well i want to be able to run it boost vs rpm when i go on Tues. Any idea which wire on the PCM connector is the RPM one? I dont know where to look to get this info. thanks!
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Well i want to be able to run it boost vs rpm when i go on Tues. Any idea which wire on the PCM connector is the RPM one? I dont know where to look to get this info. thanks!
Not a huge reason for anyone to do that except possibly if used with one of those switched inputs to just limit it first gear.
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Verdad Gallardo if you have too much boost at low rpms get a bigger turbo 
the most useful thing would be the external set points where you can with the push of a button select what you want to be at without having to go to the controller itself... say mounted to the shifter per gear like frosts sayin
the most useful thing would be the external set points where you can with the push of a button select what you want to be at without having to go to the controller itself... say mounted to the shifter per gear like frosts sayin
Well heres my graph, think that is too much power too early for stock motor/head gaskets? I want to up the boost now to 7 or 8 but worried about too much power too early blowing my head gaskets.... Thats on 5.5 psi
Hard to see the RPM and power but the graph starts at 300 rpm and ends at 6100. Power on the left goes up to 425. Total it made 420 rwhp/413 rwtq
Hard to see the RPM and power but the graph starts at 300 rpm and ends at 6100. Power on the left goes up to 425. Total it made 420 rwhp/413 rwtq
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Joined: Jan 2004
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How many miles on that stock motor? My high-mile stock bottom end (with new AFR 225's and new head gaskets) couldn't hold much boost in a couple of cylinders, as confirmed by compression/leakdown tests... so rings were my weakest link. I really doubt you'd have any head gasket problems by just adding another 2 psi... I'd be more concerned with monitoring your AFR and your tune.
thats not what im talking about. i know that these bottom ends are solid at 8 ish psi, but im just wondering about 8 psi hitting so early like my graph and how the stock 99 headgaskets would take that.
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same answer.
as long as your not detonating why would you need to worry about your gaskets?
again my buddies car is making way more power than you along the whole curve and no issues.
tune it right and you should be fine.
P.S.
I don't blame you at all for being cautious, I know I am too and thats why the stock motor has survived 3 different FI combos and 100,000 miles, 60,000 of which have been FI.
as long as your not detonating why would you need to worry about your gaskets?
again my buddies car is making way more power than you along the whole curve and no issues.
tune it right and you should be fine.
P.S.
I don't blame you at all for being cautious, I know I am too and thats why the stock motor has survived 3 different FI combos and 100,000 miles, 60,000 of which have been FI.
look up your computers pin out sheet, i think in 99 it is still a white wire just in a different place. try that and then see what the tach in eb2 reads.. if anything try changing the cylinder count around to get it to display correctly. same thing you do to hook up any aftermarket tach or shiftlight.
The bigger question here is, how do you know (assuming you aren't tuning it yourself) that you CAN turn it up? If your tuner took the easy way out and jacked up your PE table for WOT fueling, and you are already at an ideal AFR, then you can't just turn it up. Of course if you are running a 2-bar tune and your tuner has already worked it out at higher boost levels you are fine.
At your HP, the only reason to blow a head gasket in the middle rpm range where the boost comes in would be timing that was too high and you got a lot of knock. If I were a betting man though, I'd wager (in a STOCK engine) that time and time again you will lose rings and/or pistons first.
At your HP, the only reason to blow a head gasket in the middle rpm range where the boost comes in would be timing that was too high and you got a lot of knock. If I were a betting man though, I'd wager (in a STOCK engine) that time and time again you will lose rings and/or pistons first.
ok thanks frost. my tune is 2 bar and he said its fine for some more boost, but anyway i scheduled more dyno time with him for tues and were going to up thw boost and make some pulls and 1/4 simulation. btw i also have meth. its the snow and i currently run the red nozzel, should i switch to blue?
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