Decreasing spool time with tuning
We mainly use it with Autronic, but Haltech, Motec...etc, they all use it.
We are about to tune a DSM - 44ish psi, Anti lag at 8000, flat shift....should be in boost ALL the time!
So, how lean are we talking here? And how would you activate that in the PCM? just go into PE at 1 point only and give it a lean value, such as 14:1, while giving a high amount of timing such as 35degrees? just throwin out #'s, you guys are on a roll, keep it up.
Gary
it may not be a computer topic-but the new fast computer as 4 outputs for 4 different tunes of cousre which can be activated by a switch-
etc,etc
also the factory pcm in like a gto pontiac has a single output-(i dont know about other ls1
like for me has soon as i hit the n20 switch in the cabin it pulls timming out and runs in the n20 tune until i manually turn off the switch-
so if their is a switch output in the factory pcm-the turbo side of things should be do-able-
Last edited by njc.corp; Sep 19, 2007 at 11:15 PM.
So, how lean are we talking here? And how would you activate that in the PCM? just go into PE at 1 point only and give it a lean value, such as 14:1, while giving a high amount of timing such as 35degrees? just throwin out #'s, you guys are on a roll, keep it up.
Gary
Obviously do this with caution.
If someone could devise a method of using the KR function via a switch, to activate such ign timing....that would be one way to get it to work ?
How could the secondary/low timing map/table be activated manually ?
No need to play with the KR stuff, rig up the IAT sensor on a normally closed switch, reprogram the ECU to the desired amount of retarded timing in it IAT vs Timing table. Stage, get the engine agains the 2 step, press the switch. Instant timing retard with the stock ecu. You could wire in the whole setup to the clutch switch using a relay. I've tried this method and it works. It does take the ecu about 500mS to recover from the retarded timing though and you gut a huge burst of power when the timing gets added back in.
P.S. this could double as a traction control method using multiple stages of timing retardation while still having the turbo fully spooled.
As for the target a/f. I shoot for 12.5:1 at 5-7psi and have it richen up from there.
Target 12.5:1 a/f upto 7psi and play with the timing. I think i'm around 30 degrees until 1psi and 24ish around 4psi.
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Obviously do this with caution.
If someone could devise a method of using the KR function via a switch, to activate such ign timing....that would be one way to get it to work ?
How could the secondary/low timing map/table be activated manually ?
No need to play with the KR stuff, rig up the IAT sensor on a normally closed switch, reprogram the ECU to the desired amount of retarded timing in it IAT vs Timing table. Stage, get the engine agains the 2 step, press the switch. Instant timing retard with the stock ecu. You could wire in the whole setup to the clutch switch using a relay. I've tried this method and it works. It does take the ecu about 500mS to recover from the retarded timing though and you gut a huge burst of power when the timing gets added back in.
I have built and tested a small device that goes inline with the IAT with nice, clean, factory equiv metri-pack connectors. When armed with 12vdc it replaces the IAT with a fixed value that forces the table to the bottom where it is not used. There is a timing modifier vs. MAP for hte 98-00 models and it is by g/cyl for 01-02s.... 01-02 ALSO have a PE modifier vs. IAT so it could be leaned out or fattened up and then when released you are back at your normal timing and fuel settings. I am actually building 50 up front. It is primarily used for nitrous to pull timing when the N20 is armed ONLY so you can keep peak timing off of the bottle, but I plan to use mine in conjunction with my transbrake to be able to work timing and fueling while on the brake independent from the rest of the tune with a stock PCM. By the time I finish the first batch of these I should be a sponsor here
The goal of anti-lag, is to maintain boost at all times, when "off" the throttle, so there is zero spool time when depressing the throttle again, but its control strategys can be used for other purposes...eg launch.
Timing will often be ATDC as opposed to BTDC, but it doesnt need a load of fuel. Just enough to make it work.
If using on a closed throttle system ( although I cant see why a drag car would ever need this method ) some form of idle air bypass is required.
For a drag car, your foot will be on the throttle anyway, so no need.
Just pay attention to EGT's !!!
Frost, that is probably the smartest and best all around way of doing this. Problem is i dont have a IAT sensor plumbed in yet (oops) so thats for next year. i would guess that it would be quite effective though.
Gary
Nahhh, I prefer to drive my car

Maintaining boost between shifts on a stick/turbo car is easy. Just dont lift your right foot
Nahhh, I prefer to drive my car

Maintaining boost between shifts on a stick/turbo car is easy. Just dont lift your right foot

hahathinking out loud steve, would it be hard to fit a idle bypass valve from something like a cossy to a LS?? what sort of elctonic hardwear would it requier?
if not wuld it still be poss to run anti lag without the vavle??
thanks Chris.
Using the same fuel/ign strategies for other purposes at all other times, does not require any form of idle air bypass.
Simplest way of doing closed throttle anti-lag is with a simple solenoid valve, or mechanical choke cable linkage to open the throttle a little






