APS install notes
10-16-2007, 09:13 AM
#1
APS install notes Installed my APS system. Waiting for the valve springs to get here next week before fire up. here are some notes regarding the install. if it helps great if not oh well! huggerz install has some great pictures. i also found it works better to look at the stuff online where its much clearer versus my printout which was a little less clear, at least when you have questions.
Issues
-BMR K Member comes with a washer that is an optional spacer that can be used on the rear frame mount if needed.
-Inst 20/21. Just use crescent wrench to bend frame rails. did not pound them flat.
-Did not say when to install oil pan. i did it at inst 40 but could do it much sooner (11 or 12). (APS has now updated instructions!)
-Did not say when to install LHS turbo. i did it at inst 48
-Waste gate barbs should be pointing straight to the front of the downpipe at inst 28/34. you can always adjust them once installed.
-Oil supply adapter needs to be oriented at an angle. i put the front of the adapter closer to the oil pan and rear closer to the frame in inst 16
-Had to unbolt and lower exhaust so did not interfere with LHS turbo install
-Need to drill all the way thru oil cooler take off until get to inner cavity in inst 16. not very clear.
-Couldn't find a large allen wrench to get plug out so bought 17mm bolt and doubled nutted in inst 19
-Was uncertain how tight to retighten the v-clamp on the turbo after clocking in inst 36
-LHS front o2 sensor bracket needs to be moved to motor mount since wiring loom will not reach. inst 50 doesn't say it but picture does show it.
-Brake lines do not fit as per instructions. Fabbed up a bracket to work. aps needs to fix this mounting bracket setup
-Ended up reclocking the RHS turbo to better line up the rubber tube for the metal exhaust. rubber tube needs to be redesigned/maybe a little longer?
-The pictures for item 125 and 148 are switched i think.
-For the camaro install i added a 3/4 nylon spacer for the driving lights that required bending the main fog light front bracket forward a bit so it would give the air filters more room. otherwise it was not fitting very well.
-Put the foam on the intercooler before installing as well as placing it along the front edge. probably need to come up with a better enclosure for that whole system at a later date for better airflow thru the intercooler and radiators/etc.
Issues
-BMR K Member comes with a washer that is an optional spacer that can be used on the rear frame mount if needed.
-Inst 20/21. Just use crescent wrench to bend frame rails. did not pound them flat.
-Did not say when to install oil pan. i did it at inst 40 but could do it much sooner (11 or 12). (APS has now updated instructions!)
-Did not say when to install LHS turbo. i did it at inst 48
-Waste gate barbs should be pointing straight to the front of the downpipe at inst 28/34. you can always adjust them once installed.
-Oil supply adapter needs to be oriented at an angle. i put the front of the adapter closer to the oil pan and rear closer to the frame in inst 16
-Had to unbolt and lower exhaust so did not interfere with LHS turbo install
-Need to drill all the way thru oil cooler take off until get to inner cavity in inst 16. not very clear.
-Couldn't find a large allen wrench to get plug out so bought 17mm bolt and doubled nutted in inst 19
-Was uncertain how tight to retighten the v-clamp on the turbo after clocking in inst 36
-LHS front o2 sensor bracket needs to be moved to motor mount since wiring loom will not reach. inst 50 doesn't say it but picture does show it.
-Brake lines do not fit as per instructions. Fabbed up a bracket to work. aps needs to fix this mounting bracket setup
-Ended up reclocking the RHS turbo to better line up the rubber tube for the metal exhaust. rubber tube needs to be redesigned/maybe a little longer?
-The pictures for item 125 and 148 are switched i think.
-For the camaro install i added a 3/4 nylon spacer for the driving lights that required bending the main fog light front bracket forward a bit so it would give the air filters more room. otherwise it was not fitting very well.
-Put the foam on the intercooler before installing as well as placing it along the front edge. probably need to come up with a better enclosure for that whole system at a later date for better airflow thru the intercooler and radiators/etc.
10-16-2007, 08:01 PM
#3
Thanks for the props. Glad to hear my pics helped. Looks like you had some of the same issues I did.
I found that huge 19mm hex wrench at Sears for that block plug.
As for clocking the turbo that clamp rotates, just spin it around to a location where you can still access the nut with a socket.
The brake line thing really bothered me when I ran across that. I think I have it figured out but would like to see some pictures of your set-up.
Also my RH charge pipe that runs behind the strut, the bracket welded to that pipe (that is supposed to connect to the brake line bracket) is contacting my strut. Was your fitting that tight like mine? I may have to see if I can shift that rearward at all to gain some clearance to the strut. Unfortunately it's location is pretty well fixed due to the intercooler.
I would also like to see some pics of what you did with the foglights and that spacer you mention.
Yeah the intercooler foam is an important one. I skipped around steps and had to do some disassembly to put that foam on when I got near the end. That was a pisser to discover I had missed it.
I found that huge 19mm hex wrench at Sears for that block plug.
As for clocking the turbo that clamp rotates, just spin it around to a location where you can still access the nut with a socket.
The brake line thing really bothered me when I ran across that. I think I have it figured out but would like to see some pictures of your set-up.
Also my RH charge pipe that runs behind the strut, the bracket welded to that pipe (that is supposed to connect to the brake line bracket) is contacting my strut. Was your fitting that tight like mine? I may have to see if I can shift that rearward at all to gain some clearance to the strut. Unfortunately it's location is pretty well fixed due to the intercooler.
I would also like to see some pics of what you did with the foglights and that spacer you mention.
Yeah the intercooler foam is an important one. I skipped around steps and had to do some disassembly to put that foam on when I got near the end. That was a pisser to discover I had missed it.
10-16-2007, 11:06 PM
#4
pictures i'll take some pics this weekend and show ya how my rhs pipes ended up and also the fog light. that pipe just didnt' work out very well although i don't think the bracket interfered with the strut. remember, i haven't even fired this baby up yet so who knows what may come flying off!! hopefully by next weekend if those darn springs get here. still got some wiring stuff to do also, (hobbs switch, fuel pressure sender install, wideband into egr, ....)
10-17-2007, 08:10 AM
#6
11 Second Club
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: ne philly
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I havent started my install yet (which is killing me) but i really appreciate you pioneers that have done the install and are sharing info with everyone. its gonna be a great help when myself and others start on our projects. thanx again.
10-17-2007, 08:37 AM
#7
i'll take some pics this weekend and show ya how my rhs pipes ended up and also the fog light. that pipe just didnt' work out very well although i don't think the bracket interfered with the strut. remember, i haven't even fired this baby up yet so who knows what may come flying off!! hopefully by next weekend if those darn springs get here. still got some wiring stuff to do also, (hobbs switch, fuel pressure sender install, wideband into egr, ....)
Luckily nothing blew off as I was stayed out of boost without the tune. And she pulls like a freight train now! 
Care to elaborate on what was a bitch to install? I know overall my kit was not bad. But there were some frustrating steps along the way. And given how well it tuned and is driving now, I am happy with it overall.
Trending Topics
10-17-2007, 08:42 AM
#8
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lake Mary, FL
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know HuggerZ already mentioned this in his install thread, but I'll bring it up again.
The way that APS set up the PCV and breather system is.....interesting.
Mine didn't want to idle well due to what amounted to a vacuum leak from PCV, so my tuner rearranged it a little to work better.
APS swaps the breather tubes to the PCV connections and vice versa. We just Y-ed the 2 breather hoses from the intake together and ran that back to the original breather connection and then put a PCV valve back upstream of the check valve APS includes. Then that line runs back to the original PCV connections. My tuner wanted to use those due to the baffling in them, and the PCV position ensures no boost will hit it. He also put a catch can in there, just in case.
Car idles much better. IAC was doin' some funny stuff, but not any more. I'll get some pics when I can.
Just hoping to help.
The way that APS set up the PCV and breather system is.....interesting.
Mine didn't want to idle well due to what amounted to a vacuum leak from PCV, so my tuner rearranged it a little to work better.
APS swaps the breather tubes to the PCV connections and vice versa. We just Y-ed the 2 breather hoses from the intake together and ran that back to the original breather connection and then put a PCV valve back upstream of the check valve APS includes. Then that line runs back to the original PCV connections. My tuner wanted to use those due to the baffling in them, and the PCV position ensures no boost will hit it. He also put a catch can in there, just in case.
Car idles much better. IAC was doin' some funny stuff, but not any more. I'll get some pics when I can.
Just hoping to help.
10-17-2007, 09:08 AM
#9
...
APS swaps the breather tubes to the PCV connections and vice versa. We just Y-ed the 2 breather hoses from the intake together and ran that back to the original breather connection and then put a PCV valve back upstream of the check valve APS includes. Then that line runs back to the original PCV connections. My tuner wanted to use those due to the baffling in them, and the PCV position ensures no boost will hit it. He also put a catch can in there, just in case.
Car idles much better. IAC was doin' some funny stuff, but not any more. I'll get some pics when I can.
Just hoping to help.
APS swaps the breather tubes to the PCV connections and vice versa. We just Y-ed the 2 breather hoses from the intake together and ran that back to the original breather connection and then put a PCV valve back upstream of the check valve APS includes. Then that line runs back to the original PCV connections. My tuner wanted to use those due to the baffling in them, and the PCV position ensures no boost will hit it. He also put a catch can in there, just in case.
Car idles much better. IAC was doin' some funny stuff, but not any more. I'll get some pics when I can.
Just hoping to help.
how many of you guys are running the 60# siemens/mototron injectors? i see lots of stuff with problems getting them tuned in properly. would love to see an hptuner tune with the injector settings. maybe a pm? i tried to get peter w/ aps to send me their tune but no response!
10-17-2007, 11:54 AM
#11
My tuner just went to Autozone and got a stock PCV valve and a 90 deg elbow. He installed it just coming off the RH rocker cover breather and then continued with the APS one way valve line. He said the same thing. The APS set-up does not meter the air and it caused lean idle issues. Pictures were posted in my install thread.
Yes I am using the Motron 60# injectors, but sorry no I do not have the hptuners file for it. They actually idle pretty well, once in a while they search around a little. But my tuner said that they are open so little at idle sometimes there may be almost no fuel being pushed through. Overall it is usually fine. Sometimes it searches between 500rpm and 1000rpm when I am sitting at a light. Seems to vary with the weather and humidity outside. I assume it is looking for the correct parameters in the tables they have in there.
Yes I am using the Motron 60# injectors, but sorry no I do not have the hptuners file for it. They actually idle pretty well, once in a while they search around a little. But my tuner said that they are open so little at idle sometimes there may be almost no fuel being pushed through. Overall it is usually fine. Sometimes it searches between 500rpm and 1000rpm when I am sitting at a light. Seems to vary with the weather and humidity outside. I assume it is looking for the correct parameters in the tables they have in there.
10-17-2007, 06:06 PM
#12
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lake Mary, FL
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think this will work.
Not sure if I linked it right, but here are pics.
Please forgive the hose clamps and stuff, still trying to clean it up some, but it works great.
If you save your stock PCV valve and fittings it will plumb right into your check valve if you use a 3/8 in barb on the other side.
I left it upstream of check valve to protect it from boost.
Edit: Also, any ideas for retaining that starter motor heat shield any better? Holding it with just the band at the top isn't cuttin' it.
Not sure if I linked it right, but here are pics.
Please forgive the hose clamps and stuff, still trying to clean it up some, but it works great.
If you save your stock PCV valve and fittings it will plumb right into your check valve if you use a 3/8 in barb on the other side.
I left it upstream of check valve to protect it from boost.
Edit: Also, any ideas for retaining that starter motor heat shield any better? Holding it with just the band at the top isn't cuttin' it.
Last edited by T A WS6 M6; 10-17-2007 at 06:38 PM.
10-17-2007, 06:43 PM
#13
9 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: New Braunfels ,Tx
Posts: 4,997
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I remember how nervous I was the first time I fired it up. Just check and recheck all of the hose clamps. I had 2 or 3 that were not fully tightened. I found one and the shop that did my exhaust found 2 more! Luckily nothing blew off as I was stayed out of boost without the tune. And she pulls like a freight train now!
Care to elaborate on what was a bitch to install? I know overall my kit was not bad. But there were some frustrating steps along the way. And given how well it tuned and is driving now, I am happy with it overall.
Luckily nothing blew off as I was stayed out of boost without the tune. And she pulls like a freight train now! Care to elaborate on what was a bitch to install? I know overall my kit was not bad. But there were some frustrating steps along the way. And given how well it tuned and is driving now, I am happy with it overall.
10-17-2007, 09:49 PM
#14
fog light pic here are some quick pics i took tonight of the camaro fog light mod for kwikkar, the hose/clamps for the maf delete (thx calongo ss) and the new springs from compcams.
it's hard to see but i have around 1/2 to 3/4 clearance now between the air filters and the foglight. the third picture is probably the best
the valve springs are the new valve springs compcams sent me at no charge to replace the 918s i had previously bought and installed. these are now rated at .625 max lift vs .600 and open load of 367 lbs vs 318. hopefully can get them in this weekend. yahoo!!
it's hard to see but i have around 1/2 to 3/4 clearance now between the air filters and the foglight. the third picture is probably the best
the valve springs are the new valve springs compcams sent me at no charge to replace the 918s i had previously bought and installed. these are now rated at .625 max lift vs .600 and open load of 367 lbs vs 318. hopefully can get them in this weekend. yahoo!!
