WOW, I need to get over here more often. There is no way I can remember all those questions and answer them all. Will throw a few things out though.

We usually get full boost by about 3000 rpm on most of our systems. Boost starts coming on and pulling about 2000. Also, we are at 4500' here and so we have other factors that are not helping spool time at all. Unless you are running a roots style supercharger, you probably aren't getting full boost until redline. Systems are capable of 20 psi w/ no problem. You may want to upgrade turbo if you are planning on running 20 psi though.

Ran Turbo TA on dyno the other day and gained over 100 rwhp at only 5 1/2 psi boost then it spun the tires on the dyno rollers and wouldn't hold any more due to traction. Also, no intercooling factor with chassis dyno as things get pretty hot. IAT was around 160F.

From dead stop, no power braking, car will put enough boost down in first gear to break tires loose when it spools up. Don't get full boost in first until around 4000 or so because turbo is chasing the rpms up. Loading is what causes turbos to work hard. You aren't putting much load on the car in first gear. Driving on the freeway, you can get full boost at around 2500 rpm if it doesn't shift down because there is more load. Our trucks produce full boost around 2000 rpm if pulling trailer.

Choking the exhaust with small housing is what happens when you put a small housing up front where the exhaust gasses are super-expanded and require larger flowing pipes. If you put our housing on a front mount system it would definately choke. Likewise, if you put the front mount housing on our system, you would have to look at your watch to see when the boost would come on. At the rear, you have a lot "less" air because it is condensed. We size our systems to run with the amount of exhaust that is coming out of the tailpipe (so to speak) rather than the amount that is coming out of the manifolds (actually it is the same amount but it acts like more/or less because of the temperature difference).

Efficiency, for all the engineer types. Turbo impeller is a lot like a propeller on an airplane. You spin the prop and it pushes air, or you push air across and it spins the prop. How efficient is a propeller on an airplane at 30,000 feet? How fast would you have to spin that prop to drive the plane at 200 mph. Couldn't spin it fast enough to do it right? Now, same prop and plane at sea level. Get the picture? Turbos up front are spinning the impeller with very hot and high velocity gasses, but also very "Thin" gasses. Gasses at the rear of the car are cooled down and moving slower (still pretty stinking fast) but are also alot denser. Also, compare the difference between a system with 2 cast manifolds with the twin turbos mounted directly onto the manifolds with another system with headers (which are going to dissipate lots of heat compared to manifolds and have 10 times the volume. Our system doesn't have 10 times the volume, but closer to that of a system with headers and crossovers (a little more).

Keep in mind this is a real good street kit. Not a full race 1000 hp kit. Not much market for that one anyway. If you want to spend a couple hours and pick up over 100 rwhp at very conservative boost and still retain stock drivability with no other modifications, this is a great kit.

Turbo TA picked up 12 mph in 1/4 mile at 5 psi boost and driving it off the line without any powerbraking at the start. Went from 92 to 104 mph.

We put one of our systems on a chev truck a couple weeks ago. He was running a powerdyne and 9 psi boost. He got beat by our Tahoe running 7 psi so was real interested in our kit. He sold powerdyne and we installed our system. We picked up .7s on the 0-60 time running only 6 psi boost over his 9 psi with supercharger. Same guy raced another chev truck with whipple that was running over 10 psi boost and they were real even.

Our Tacoma system will flat out spank the TRD superchargers at less boost. 0-60, 1/4 mile, dyno, and especially on the freeway.

Looked at LS1 again today and checked on some routing for the tubing. A lot tighter than the LT1 system. Hope to get started on kit soon. Shoot me an email if you guys have any questions, or to tell me to get over here and start answering questions!

Appreciate your input, suggestions, and even the criticism. Keeps us on our toes and helps us to know what questions need to be answered. You guys are great!

Thanks, Rick @ STS

 

What is the cfm limit of your current housing?

What HP potential with the current turbo?

Also what boost/RWHP potential on the LS1?

thanks!
Chris

 

will this system work with cats?
what about moisture in the filter?

 

You said you had a kit for a truck.? What kind of truck? 99-present with the LS1 based motor? Or the older 88-98?

 

The basic turbo setup is going to be pretty good to about 500 HP but the turbo can be upgraded for those guys that want to run high boost.

System utilizes stock cats. High boost setups will probably want to either put better cats in or at least monitor exhaust temps.

Haven't had any water problems, everyone asks that though. We've done pretty extensive tests, especially with our trucks with great results. K&N makes a "dry charger" for those overly concerned.

We do make truck kits:
96-current Toyota Tacoma 3.4L 4x4 ext and quad cabs: gained over 60% hp and tq at 7 psi. Dropped 3 1/2 seconds on 0-60 time.

2000-current Toyota Tundra 4.7L 4x4: gained over 125 ftlbs TQ at 7 psi.

99-Chev 1/2t 4x4 5.3L: Gained over 40% HP and TQ.

00-current Tahoe and Suburbans 5.3L: Gained over 40% hp and tq. Our sled of a suburban ran almost exact time "after" w/ turbo kit as our C4 vette "before" test. OUCH!

Won't have LS1 results until prototype is done.

 

Keep us posted on the LS1, Rick. This time you do the track testing lol, poor girl in the LT1 probably had her hands full.
Jeremy
frcefed98

 

I finaly saw a picture of this thing and think I understand the motivation behind it now. It looks to have fewer parts than other kits and the parts it has are of a simpler design. After reading this post and then seeing a picture of this thing the first thing that popped into my head was "I bet that thing is much cheaper to manufacture." I bet the money they save from not having to manufacture headers and all the custom mandrel bends they could deliver a turbo system that is the most cost effective at turbocharging an LS1 to 400rwhp.

 

what kind of tunning is being done to these cars and trucks. will your kit have a hand held tunner with them or will we have to find a dyno shop.

 

My question is, doesn't the Garrett T04 use gravity to pull the oil to the bearings? If so, then how do you drain it back there to keep the oil from pushing past the dynamic seals and going into the exhaust?

 

I don't see how these systems are capabil of 20 psi with anykind of turbo..

 

Back in World War II, the P-47 fighter plane had a rear mounted turbocharger that worked just fine.
Seems it would work in a car also.

 

tell us about the oiling system. seems like a long way to run oil to cool the turbo??

 

Guys, with all this talk of this little 'remotely' mounted turbo, and iffy results, which I definately agree with...Why not just go straight to the real thing, turbine-wise...How 'bout an 85 lb. jet engine developed for cruise missiles, that will definitely BOOST performance. And since I just thought of integrating this in with the current engine/drivetrain, there are many, many things that would need definition. Running it into its own transmission and output shaft that could engage the main driveshaft at the flip of a switch??? could be fun!

 

Can we get some ideas on price? If it's inexpensive, it's certainly worth it, but if it's even close to a normal kit, I wouldn't look at it twice.

 

The LT1 kit is $3.5k. And I highly doubt they will vary too much in the amount of parts, so the prices of the LT1 kit and the LS1 kit should be similar. Not to mention he said just about anyone can install it by themselves. The other engine bay mounted turbo kits you see usually mention installation is an extra ~$1.5k. Just food for thought.

 

ttt for Assassin

 

ahh yes, thank you

 

where is the air intake on this kit? The picture I saw along time ago showed the air intake up under the car.

 

It's where the driver's side tail pipe would normally be on an f-body.

 

Hey , turbocharged can you post some pics of the LT1 kit so we can get an idea of how this is set up on an F-body.