Crank Bolt came out

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Nov 8, 2007 | 08:53 AM

AFASTYZFR1

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From: Florida

Crank Bolt came out

Crank bolt came loose yesterday and I could take it out by hand.....I have a d1sc w/ 6-rib. Can someone tell me the torque for the bolt or should I just impact it on.....

I am also looking into pinning the crank so if anyone has any pics or anything post em up.......thanks

Last edited by AFASTYZFR1; Nov 8, 2007 at 08:58 AM.

Nov 8, 2007 | 09:01 AM

BlackScreaminMachine

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From: Wallingford CT

A crank bolt coming out is VERY common, often people just put a lil loctite on it to keep it in place.

THe hub is what holds the dampener, you should pin it anyways so it doesnt have a chance to spin.

Nov 8, 2007 | 09:04 AM

ChevyChad

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You will need a new crank bolt. This time around, get it pinned too.

Nov 8, 2007 | 05:25 PM

Boosted LS1

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From: Nottingham, Notts, England, UK

Tq on the pulley bolt is massive. Use an old bolt to bed the pulley down at about 230 lbs/ft and then fit in a new bolt at 37 lbs/ft plus 180 degrees iirc. Before fitting the new bolt look for a 2-4 mm step appx between the pulley and crank snout.

Boosted.

Nov 9, 2007 | 08:32 AM

AFASTYZFR1

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From: Florida

Will this work? Comes with new bolt

http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...1489cfcfa060ce

Nov 9, 2007 | 11:24 AM

ls1290

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From: Colorado

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFASTYZFR1

Will this work? Comes with new bolt

http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...1489cfcfa060ce

That will do the trick nicely

Keith

Nov 9, 2007 | 05:33 PM

mikep2002

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From: Oxford, Chester County,Pa

That may not quite work. I believe the bolt in that kit is only to be used to hold the guide in place to drill/pin the crank. After the crank is drilled remove the bolt and the guide install the pin and new factory bolt....

Quote:

Originally Posted by ls1290

That will do the trick nicely

Keith

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Nov 9, 2007 | 08:51 PM

mikep2002

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From: Oxford, Chester County,Pa

Quote:

Originally Posted by ls1290

I assumed the instruction would be followed

Keith

I know exactly what you mean

. Mine did not come with instructions it looked just like that. Just wanted to make sure there was very little confusion...

Nov 9, 2007 | 11:03 PM

#10

EPP

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As has been mentioned, use loctite on the new crank bolt. You will need to first clean the bolt threads of any shipping oils. Bob

Nov 10, 2007 | 12:43 AM

#11

AFASTYZFR1

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From: Florida

Anyone use this bolt?

http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...1489cfcfa060ce

Nov 10, 2007 | 07:46 AM

#12

mikep2002

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From: Oxford, Chester County,Pa

Quote:

Originally Posted by AFASTYZFR1

Anyone use this bolt?

http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...1489cfcfa060ce

I would save your money that bolt looks pretty pricey. And the factory bolts cost about 3 bucks and do a more than adequate job. I have read some posts about people having problems with aftermarket bolts. More than likey I would call most them operator error. We`re all gonna screw up stuff now and then. Preffer it not to be on the crank...The factory will work fine.. Good Luck to you.

Nov 10, 2007 | 08:34 AM

#13

WAHUSKER

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From: Marysville, WA

Buy the pinning kit & an APR crank bolt & use a drop of locktite. I got all that from Bob at EPP & have never had an issue.....other than it taking me 2 hrs to drill the crank shaft.

Nov 10, 2007 | 02:46 PM

#14

DanZ28

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From: Cali/Bay Area

I use the ARP bolt, no problems, I just use their lube on it no loctite. Nothing wrong with stockers, but I had mine on and off so many times the ARP made more sence. Very key to get the right torque on them, and get them pinned.

Nov 10, 2007 | 05:22 PM

#15

Moz

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Absolutly key your crank.The first build up I did with the D1SC I did not key the crank.That is why i'm running a Iron block now.The pulley spun the crank nose and I had to build a new motor because of my ignorance! Cost$$$