The Zombie rear mount turbo saga
#121
TECH Resident
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 793
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This seems like a great idea. Zombie, do you think this idea has enough potential that it might end up being able to function like the spool valve plus 3" exhaust, or not?
#122
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
hey zombie i wanted to throw a question at you,
i know the oil system is the biggest consern to get right to keep this thing all together so i alreazdy have my oil system mapped out.
Im feeding it with a 4an deed line with a check valve and then into the turbo
Currently plan on having it drain out with a 10an return line with a hobb switch plumbed in with a piezo buzzer wireed into it. and then having it drain back into the oil pan. i was gonna go into the fill cap, but decided to just man up and drill the pan lol
i was wondering if right out the turbo if i have a short (12"-15) of 12 or 14 AN hose that then goes into 10 an into the pump. my thinking is that the short larger diameter hose will act as a mini "sump" for oil draining under high load giving the scavanger a little bit of time to return the oil.
Your thoughts? or others for that matter...
also what is the optimum mounting location for the oil pump?
i know the oil system is the biggest consern to get right to keep this thing all together so i alreazdy have my oil system mapped out.
Im feeding it with a 4an deed line with a check valve and then into the turbo
Currently plan on having it drain out with a 10an return line with a hobb switch plumbed in with a piezo buzzer wireed into it. and then having it drain back into the oil pan. i was gonna go into the fill cap, but decided to just man up and drill the pan lol
i was wondering if right out the turbo if i have a short (12"-15) of 12 or 14 AN hose that then goes into 10 an into the pump. my thinking is that the short larger diameter hose will act as a mini "sump" for oil draining under high load giving the scavanger a little bit of time to return the oil.
Your thoughts? or others for that matter...
also what is the optimum mounting location for the oil pump?
#123
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
figured it out lol just put the oil pump in the regual spot and other then a needing to get my dumbass a turbowerx pump and be done with that part, a 10an all the way back proves to be plenty.
I do have a bit of a physic's related question.
I have since relocated my charge pipe routing by having it run through the rocker then over the front wheel then into a 30x12x3 intercooler, then up to the engine.
my question is, does this extra bends from the over axle, up the rocker, over the wheel, and then the intercooler cause a huge pressure drop or even cause stalling?
ever since I relocated the piping, the car is running strange. I cant get it to drop shift like it did before, like its not getting enough air, which is strange for a turbo. just wondering. I also switched up the 3" ypipe for a SLP 2.5" ypipe. I have yet to rewrap it but my exhaust is finally sealed. I have to get a spot on my intake side that I need to have reshaped due to me cutting it and now I have a boost leak.
I do have a bit of a physic's related question.
I have since relocated my charge pipe routing by having it run through the rocker then over the front wheel then into a 30x12x3 intercooler, then up to the engine.
my question is, does this extra bends from the over axle, up the rocker, over the wheel, and then the intercooler cause a huge pressure drop or even cause stalling?
ever since I relocated the piping, the car is running strange. I cant get it to drop shift like it did before, like its not getting enough air, which is strange for a turbo. just wondering. I also switched up the 3" ypipe for a SLP 2.5" ypipe. I have yet to rewrap it but my exhaust is finally sealed. I have to get a spot on my intake side that I need to have reshaped due to me cutting it and now I have a boost leak.
#124
Excellent write up and info guys I have a few questions though, I just got a 97 SS LT1 with stainless LTs and 3"all the way back and I have a new 62-1 ptrim .96a/r from a project that never got finished. I want to up the power and have some fun on the streets with it. Now the car has sfcs on it that run under the rocker panels so how can I route the cold side pipes and does anyone sell a coated coldside kit or will I have to make my own? Also where are you guys mounting the oil return pump and are any of you bracing the turbo or is the exhaust supporting the weight of the turbo? Finally would "cast iron stove paint" work to help keep the heat in the exhaust, I'm concerned with wrapping the entire exhaust because if the wrap gets wet that's bad correct? I'm going to wrap the stainless LTs because I'm going to keep them on the car since they're already on there, what size injectors should I run? What rwhp/rwtq should I expect out of this combo? Where can I get the pipe that mates the over the axle pipe to the turbo? Thanks for any help you guys can give.
#125
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
got your cold pipe routing right here
heres the hoop portion over the wheel
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17605669-post471.html
and the rest
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17576045-post457.html
now mind you these were earlier mock ups but im sure you can get the idea. the cross over pipe in front fo te car has since been cleaned up with a once piece formed pipe that's bolted to the car. the turbo has also been adjusted to sit up higher in there. im lowered 1.25" and other then the most extreme dips, I don't contact anything. the lowest thing in the whole setup is the SLP ypipe.
although a bit lengthy, id reread this thread, mine, ZL1killa, and RHRohio threads on these rear mounts. we have a lot of information that's just way too much to regurgitate lol those threads will get you in the direction you need.
heres the hoop portion over the wheel
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17605669-post471.html
and the rest
https://ls1tech.com/forums/17576045-post457.html
now mind you these were earlier mock ups but im sure you can get the idea. the cross over pipe in front fo te car has since been cleaned up with a once piece formed pipe that's bolted to the car. the turbo has also been adjusted to sit up higher in there. im lowered 1.25" and other then the most extreme dips, I don't contact anything. the lowest thing in the whole setup is the SLP ypipe.
although a bit lengthy, id reread this thread, mine, ZL1killa, and RHRohio threads on these rear mounts. we have a lot of information that's just way too much to regurgitate lol those threads will get you in the direction you need.
#126
Staging Lane
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bumping an old thread...How many cats are you guys running? This is directed to anyone running a rearmount. My car came with 2 so i'm wondering if there's any positives with running 1.
#127
I thought you get rid of all cats that way there is no chance of a piece of it braking loose and going into your turbo
#128
Staging Lane
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry, forgot to mention a little testing I did while in ND with the stock exhaust.
1) Removed both cats and I couldn't build much boost 2-3psi. Also the car sounded like a loud redneck truck.
2) Installed the passenger side cat after the y pipe. Quieted the car some and was able to build a little more boost 5-6psi.
3) Reinstalled both cats to stock positions and was able to hit 15psi all day.
I don't think the exhaust will heat up to the same temp without cats. I should of wrote down the temps on the egt gauge with and without cats.
Now I'm trying to find yet another boost leak. It seems like its coming from the fpr o-ring. I've swapped out the o-ring twice and even tested it with the stock fpr. Still had air coming out when I boost leak test. Didn't think to try swapping out fuel rails till now.
1) Removed both cats and I couldn't build much boost 2-3psi. Also the car sounded like a loud redneck truck.
2) Installed the passenger side cat after the y pipe. Quieted the car some and was able to build a little more boost 5-6psi.
3) Reinstalled both cats to stock positions and was able to hit 15psi all day.
I don't think the exhaust will heat up to the same temp without cats. I should of wrote down the temps on the egt gauge with and without cats.
Now I'm trying to find yet another boost leak. It seems like its coming from the fpr o-ring. I've swapped out the o-ring twice and even tested it with the stock fpr. Still had air coming out when I boost leak test. Didn't think to try swapping out fuel rails till now.
#129
TECH Resident
I ran both cats for a while, then took them off. Didn't notice any big change, other than sound. Now I run a 3 in resonator on my downpipe, then out the back. It helped tone the sound down a bit to a more tolerable level.
#132
TECH Resident
#139
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Federal Way, Wa
Posts: 381
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes we did. wrapped everything from the motor to the turbo. We are about to swap to a 7675 ball bearing and a ls6 intake, with a 3 bar map and fic 127s try for 900+ on the stock block. 1000+ after summer with the forged shortblock, turbo cam, ported heads.