How do I build torque with minimal hp gain?
Thread Starter
Teching In
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How do I build torque with minimal hp gain? Right now I have the Vortech SQ trim blower on an LS2. It made about 490 in the auto. I ditched the auto for a manual and it made 540 and 481 peak torque on a really cold night because I added the LG PRO headers. Probably makes about 530 on a 70 degree day. It was over 8lbs of boost because of the dense air. Right now it makes 450rwtq at 3800 RPMS
My question is what would you do to make more torque without gaining as much hp? I have a restriction for the class I run in of 563rwhp. So I can pick up about 30hp and be fine but I want to maximize my down low. I was thinking smaller pulley and then detune/pull timing on the big end. What would you do?
Thanks for your help.
MB
My question is what would you do to make more torque without gaining as much hp? I have a restriction for the class I run in of 563rwhp. So I can pick up about 30hp and be fine but I want to maximize my down low. I was thinking smaller pulley and then detune/pull timing on the big end. What would you do?
Thanks for your help.
MB
I'd do a 25 shot of nitrous that will probably pay off with a 75lb boost to your rwt on a FI setup.
There's really nothing else except a bump in your motor's displacement that will deliver what you're asking for.
If you can't manage that small a shot, maybe try a larger blower pulley and larger shot? I hope your class doesn't limit you to 1 power adder...
Jim
There's really nothing else except a bump in your motor's displacement that will deliver what you're asking for.
If you can't manage that small a shot, maybe try a larger blower pulley and larger shot? I hope your class doesn't limit you to 1 power adder...
Jim
Right now I have the Vortech SQ trim blower on an LS2. It made about 490 in the auto. I ditched the auto for a manual and it made 540 and 481 peak torque on a really cold night because I added the LG PRO headers. Probably makes about 530 on a 70 degree day. It was over 8lbs of boost because of the dense air. Right now it makes 450rwtq at 3800 RPMS
My question is what would you do to make more torque without gaining as much hp? I have a restriction for the class I run in of 563rwhp. So I can pick up about 30hp and be fine but I want to maximize my down low. I was thinking smaller pulley and then detune/pull timing on the big end. What would you do?
Thanks for your help.
MB
My question is what would you do to make more torque without gaining as much hp? I have a restriction for the class I run in of 563rwhp. So I can pick up about 30hp and be fine but I want to maximize my down low. I was thinking smaller pulley and then detune/pull timing on the big end. What would you do?
Thanks for your help.
MB
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
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I also found an LS2 Cheater and Comp 921 Spring kit for $500
99-TR-CHEATRLS2-CAM Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
"LS2 CheaTR" - 215/230 .629/.592 117 LSA. Off Idle-6800 RPM Power Band. Broad power range. Works well with stock exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters. Stock like idle. Minor tuning required on automatic transmission cars. Responds very well to nitrous. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended. Comp 921 Valve Springs are highly recommended.
63-26921-KIT Comp Cams 26921 Dual Spring Kit - Suitable to .650 lift with more aggressive ramp-rate cams - Kit includes valve springs, titanium retainers, spring seats & valve stem seals.
I'm a little concerned about the fast ramp rates, it must be durable for hammering 20mins at a time.
20 minutes at a time? Perhaps you should give a little more detail about the entire combo. Most of the questions around here involve drag racing, so if this is ENTIRELY different, then more specifics would help.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
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BTW What is the biggest motor you can make right now with a 4" Stroke? Warhawk? Something suitable for boost.
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Verdad Gallardo I figured it was road racing, forward manual valve body + stall and lots of trans cooling. You would have a SERIOUS power advantage over everyone (at least 100 hp, probably a lot more). You would have to choose different lines possibly, but the extra power would more than make up for it. If you wanted to get really tricky with it you could run a switch pitch converter, 1500 on the tight end and 3000 on the loose, that would be very very sneaky and let you play more tricks with the dyno.
Until they banned an auto setup like that.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 45
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I figured it was road racing, forward manual valve body + stall and lots of trans cooling. You would have a SERIOUS power advantage over everyone (at least 100 hp, probably a lot more). You would have to choose different lines possibly, but the extra power would more than make up for it. If you wanted to get really tricky with it you could run a switch pitch converter, 1500 on the tight end and 3000 on the loose, that would be very very sneaky and let you play more tricks with the dyno.
Until they banned an auto setup like that.
Until they banned an auto setup like that.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,341
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I'd pulley the blower to spin faster and test restrictors to get the peak down. That'll give the best of both worlds hands down...(limit top end and boost midrange torque)
ECS has restrictors for Vortech setups
ECS has restrictors for Vortech setups
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Also with the restrictor is the supercharger still producing as much heat.
So for example say the 3.6 produces 11lbs of boost normally. With the restrictor on it only produces 8-9lbs at peak. Is it still creating the same amount of heat as 11lbs?
So for example say the 3.6 produces 11lbs of boost normally. With the restrictor on it only produces 8-9lbs at peak. Is it still creating the same amount of heat as 11lbs?
No,AS long as the restrictor is on the inlet side of the blower.
