Yes that's it. Got any more pics of that area?

 

Make sure the bottom (side) port is referenced to the intake. If the line comes off the top of the gate and nothing on the side of the gate, then it wont open right up. Infact, the exhaust pressure will push the valve open adn you will slowly create a small amount of boost (like what you are describing).

Summary: Look at the wastegate and make sure the reference line is not on the top of the wastegate. You want it on the bottom port (called the side port sometimes). When running off the wg spring only, the bottom port is where you want it hooked and the top port should be open.

 

Sorry to hear about your trouble,,,, But that is one sick *** set up! Wow! Looks like you are able to keep all the factory equipment with the set up. I realy like it. Is your kit a custom kit or off the shelf kit? Were again did you get it? I will reread all your parts list.

That is one wicked sick set up! I can not wait to see the numbers once you get the bugs worked out. Post some more photos too please.

Take care in Bagdad, when do you expect to come home? Good luck and we apretiate your work and service.

Ex-Navy, Scott

 

Thank you very much RealQuick. I have limited pictures and cannot get a full view of the WG. Hopefully he hooked everything up right. Also I forgot to note that this engine is pretty much brand new, not even broken in yet, so I should probably keep the boost down anyway. I just want to make sure there is no foreseeable issues, once this gets worked out the boost will stay low until the break in period is over.

 

Thanks for the kind words. This car has been in the works for a while now and is just about there as mentioned before. Thanks to vasts amount of information from this site alone has helped me hopefully get the best parts for a reliable and fast ride. I guess you can call it an OFI kit, it was purchased in the early stages, was one of the first kits off the shelf so it had some fitment issues so some custom fabrication had to be done to get it to fit The Radiator was moved forward and a custom one from OFI that came with the kit replaced the original, other than that yes factory equipment like AC, etc remains. I will be out of here in April for a vacation but to come back until July, than I will come home for good and I cannot wait.

 

do you think that if the rings aren't fully seated that I can get "blow by" that would decrease both performance and exhaust manifold pressure to the turbo basically causing these symptoms?

 

I would be more along the lines of thinking it is something not hooked up right instead of an internal engine problem. There is a lot of engine bay modification to put any turbo kit in. I bet it is something small that is easyly over looked, not something drastic. Like someone posted earler, if the dyno did not realy load the car, then the turbo is only going to react to the load. Light load, light turbo boost, light numbers. One thing I did notice, wich makes me suspect the waistgate ballance line to the manifold pressure is that you stated the kit only made 4.8 psi (absolute ?) with a 7 psi spring. A little more then half the spring pressure. Then when he installed the 15 psi spring it only made 9.5 psi (absolute ?) which again is a little more then half the spring psi. It sounds like the waistgate is either plumbed wrong, or there for what ever reason there is more exhaust backpressure then you were expecting to see. Is there any restrictions in the exhaust from the turbo to the rear of the car? Muffler, Cats? Also, what turbine housing size is on it? The A/R that is? Has anyone done the math on that cam to see what the valve overlap is? To much overlap can also kill the turbo set up. I could be wrong but my math looks like it has about 8 degrees of valve overlap. There are others here how know more about this then I do. Maybe they can chim in.

 

Ok I just got off the phone with him and apparently he was referencing the WG off of the Intercooler. Has anyone ever heard of someone referencing the WG off of the IC, is this common?? Anyway long story short he is going to change it to reference off of the Intake. Thanks Texas_WS6, RealQuick, HydroStream6, and cablebandit for all of your help on this. I hope that this is the only problem. So what numbers do you guys think I should hit at 15 psi of boost with this setup on the dyno, once he changes the reference to the Intake? I have been told and guys correct me if I am wrong but the superflow Dyno will read lower than a dynojet, is this correct? Will it read about the same as a mustang dyno?

 

Hmmm... I still dont think its your problem. IC's usually drop the boost 1-2psi compared to the spring... not as much as you were seeing. Did he say which port on the wastegate he was referencing (top port or side port)?

 

Oh... and people can run the wg reference line anywhere from the turbo to the intake manifold. The psi will vary a little depending on where it goes, but its fine.

 

He did not say what port he was referencing. He was saying the IC's could drop about 5psi. Anyway stay tuned, I think its about to get fixed, I hope anyway.

 

Depending on the setup and specific intercooler I have heard of 4-5psi loss so it wouldn't be unbelievable... I bet it take care of your issue... and also like said above make sure it's hooked up to the side port... I should have mentioned that before also.

Also, with a 15lb spring I doubt your pushing open the wastegate, but I guess anything is possible.

As far as numbers, your obviously going to lose some numbers through the TH400 and rear, but I bet it will run 9s no problem!

 

Oh yea, looks like the military is paying pretty well! haha

 

Prior Military(Army) for 7 years than decided to get out and make 10 times the amount doing the same thing as a civilian Contractor. Lets just say I have been out in the sand for about 4 years now, First year while I was still in the Army, got out and came right back.

Can Jose or DrTurbo or of course anyone with good knowledge or experience on the S85 turbos tell me how much boost I can run on it, what rpm's I should see it kick in and how long the boost will stay in and at what rpm range will the boost start to drop? I know the site says it can push about 1440 Crank HP so around 1000rwhp is for sure doable with this turbo.

 

You can run as much "boost" as you'd like... boost is only a measure of restriction of airflow through the engine... the actual CFM through the motor is what determines the power. I have no expierience first hand with your turbo, but with your setup it should come in fairly quickly, especially with the stalled auto. I'd guess full boost by 4k? Also with your setup I doubt you'll see the boost fall off unless you up in the 1000hp range, which I don't think your really shooting for?

 

Ever get it going?

 

Have not heard the results yet, he should of been doing more dyno runs today. He should be hooking up the innovative Boost controller so we will really be able to push the turbo, I am not sure if that is done yet. I told him I want to see what numbers I get with 15psi of boost as that should net around 700rwhp or a little more as this dyno does read low like a mustang dyno. I talked with Jose at forcedinductions and agreed that moving the reference to the intake will for sure help with more boost. As far as 495 at 4.8psi and 576 at 9.5psi is about right, that would be around 650rwhp on a dynojet. I will find out when the shop opens more info.

 

If you're still not seeing the boost that your wastegate spring allows (without a boost controller installed) you might want to check the BOV and make sure that it hasn't lost a reference line connection or isn't set too loose... either can result in the valve opening too soon.

 

I would check the backpressure on the downpipe side. I see you necked it down to 3" which will work, but can cause some backpressure problems and also explain why the WG can open early. Drop the exhaust and run downpipe only and see what happens. I think you will see a huge difference.

 

Funny because I could of swore that it was suppose to be a 3.5" DP? That is what I purchased with the OFI Kit. It did get necked down but not till later through the exit pipe, which is 3". So that can cause problems? Should the pipe remain 3.5" all the way out back? Here is a couple more pics. I still have not heard the results from the builder yet or even if he re dynoed the car, will post up as soon as I get all of the information from him. Of course I will have him re verify all of the reference points and make sure that he changed it to the intake, and will make sure all fittings are secured and in the correct locations. This is pretty much the exhaust setup, if you call that an exhaust, just a 3" pipe.