427 Warhawk For Boost Setup?
FormerVendor
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From: Decatur IN.
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sorry to go off topic here, but do the solid mounts have much effect on the car?? do you get bad vidrations??
Thanks
Chris.
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If weight is not an issue because its a street car going in straight lines on the highway, and the power goals are at least 1,200 RWHP, hopefully 1,300-1,400 RWHP, would you then say go with iron for the strength benifit and NOT to have to worry about sleeve issues that aluminum blocks have?
FormerVendor
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From: Hell AFB
With any mount this car is going to be rocking side to side. A solid mount is the best way for a system like this. The transmission is still on a bushing to allow minor flex.
Sorry, just curious, at what power levels are the solid mounts reccommeded? Or is it more so the application, I've heard that they vibrate the whole car and really don't want that at all for a street car but the plus look allot better.
One thing to keep in mind is that the more cubic inches you have, the more difficult it will be to make boost. With a 427, you'll make plenty of hp (and gobs and gobs of torque). I would say if you want to stay on pump gas to try to aim for an easier attainable boost level, and run a little higher CR. That would be the easier thing to do IMO. Say 8#'s of boost at 10-10.5:1 with meth injection on pump gas.
This is strictly a track use car that won't be legal for street use. For our application the motor plates tie the engine into the chassis to make the combination an integrated system. Bob
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Addict
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Chris.
I love how you guys throw around the #'s 1200,1300, 1400 rwhp like its so easy, do you realize that that's about 1700+@the crank. And with a S/C at that, you must be useing a F3R..
Wont you guys look into using something that is proven to work and be very durable. The blocks weve been using,ERL performance LS2 superdeck. We ran it all last year over 100 passes with many in the 7's in a 3400lb.car(I'll let you figure the HP) They will probably be cheaper that the other options and still stay alum.
They are releassing a 6 head bolt ls2 this year which we will be testing. Results to come
Wont you guys look into using something that is proven to work and be very durable. The blocks weve been using,ERL performance LS2 superdeck. We ran it all last year over 100 passes with many in the 7's in a 3400lb.car(I'll let you figure the HP) They will probably be cheaper that the other options and still stay alum.
They are releassing a 6 head bolt ls2 this year which we will be testing. Results to come
Thread Starter
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From: Bremerton, WA
I would totally welcome any cheaper alternatives to the Warhawk, as long as it will be strong enough for 1000 FWHP (just so I can sleep at night). I just don't see an LS1/2 block being any cheaper and just as strong at that power level. But I also haven't built or raced any LSx engines.
To make any LS1/2 block reliable to that HP level wouldn't it need to be resleeved and doweled (or billet) mains. Also, for FI I want the 6 bolt head option, that you just cannot get with a LS1/2 block.
To make any LS1/2 block reliable to that HP level wouldn't it need to be resleeved and doweled (or billet) mains. Also, for FI I want the 6 bolt head option, that you just cannot get with a LS1/2 block.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Whitby,On
I can offer some advice on the Warhawk in regards to your build, first off the Warhawk is the best aluminum option that we have out there! If anyone thinks that a modified ls2 block would be as strong as a warhawk then they probably haven't really looked at one! not to mention the warhawk has a priority main oiling system that the ls2 does not. If you choose the warhawk direction which I highly suggest you won't be disappointed. If you want to re assure yourself that you have great ring seal and long life on a boosted application then I would suggest you build a 408ci 4.030 bore with a 4.00 stroke and order the block with the 4.030 bore which leaves a cylinder wall thickness of .160 and will keep amazing regitity in the cylinder walls which is key in an aluminum block, hope this helps.
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From: Bremerton, WA
I have another question that may possibly save me some $$$$...
The Warhawk block has LSx and Standard Small Block engine mounts, but what is the difference between Standard Small Block and LT1 engine mount? I already have a BMR tubular K-member on my car, and it would save me about $600 if I could reuse it!
Does anyone know what I would have to do to use my LT1 K-member?
I called BMR and I cannot use the K-member I have....Damn
The Warhawk block has LSx and Standard Small Block engine mounts, but what is the difference between Standard Small Block and LT1 engine mount? I already have a BMR tubular K-member on my car, and it would save me about $600 if I could reuse it!
Does anyone know what I would have to do to use my LT1 K-member?
I called BMR and I cannot use the K-member I have....Damn
Last edited by GrnDragon; Feb 6, 2008 at 04:15 PM.
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It seems MORE power is ALWAYS what people are after ultimately.......so why not just go iron. Aluminum is just not going to hold up as well when you start doing 1,200+ RWHP. Warhawk is great, but its not that great. Iron will always kick its *** hard core.
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Its 114 pounds heavier.
Yeah, I understand the serious road racer or serious competition drag racer....everybody else, it just doesn't matter.
Get the aftermarket K-Member that saves like 50 pounds and its just 64 pounds....that isn't ****.
Yeah, I understand the serious road racer or serious competition drag racer....everybody else, it just doesn't matter.
Get the aftermarket K-Member that saves like 50 pounds and its just 64 pounds....that isn't ****.
Warhawk block weighs 133lbs per World.
LSX block weighs 225lbs with a 3.99 bore per GM.
Bore a LSX block to 4.125 and you'll drop 10-15lbs...so 210lbs.
Net is 77lbs more weight in the LSX block.
LSX block weighs 225lbs with a 3.99 bore per GM.
Bore a LSX block to 4.125 and you'll drop 10-15lbs...so 210lbs.
Net is 77lbs more weight in the LSX block.