Need ideas for project
Need ideas for project After doing a ton of research and changing my mind 40 times, I've decided FI and not H/C/I.
I've researched a lot into turbo's vs. prochargers. I now either want a D1sc or a turbo system. I'd rather get the supercharger for the low end power, but the sound of those turbos are just plain sex.
My goals: streetable, not much worse fuel mileage, and reliable.
I'm only planned on running 5-8 PSI, and shooting for 450-525rwhp and an easy 11 second car. I have a good stock 100k LS1 longblock just sitting outside my car. (a bad 140k motor is in the car). I haven't found too many results about how reliable 6 PSI is on a stock 100k motor. To be safe, would it be cheaper (yeah, I know yada yada yada) to have a shop install new dished pistons & rods rather than buy a $3000 shortblock from a sponsor? Probably not with machine work and assembly & stuff, right? Any thoughts about running a small cam or instead run the stock cam with some LS6 heads? I think for now I'm just going to buy the FI system (including fuel pump & injectors), some LS6 heads, and run it on about 5 PSI until I get more money to upgrade the shortblock? I don't have unlimited funds, things will have to happen one at a time. and I know I need to do things right the first time around, but I hear guys running thousands of miles with 8 PSI on a stock motor.
One last thought, do I really need to do anything to the shortblock besides upgrade rods if I'm only running 6 PSI?.. with a small cam and LS6 heads.
Shoot some thoughts & ideas guys! thanks
I've researched a lot into turbo's vs. prochargers. I now either want a D1sc or a turbo system. I'd rather get the supercharger for the low end power, but the sound of those turbos are just plain sex.
My goals: streetable, not much worse fuel mileage, and reliable.
I'm only planned on running 5-8 PSI, and shooting for 450-525rwhp and an easy 11 second car. I have a good stock 100k LS1 longblock just sitting outside my car. (a bad 140k motor is in the car). I haven't found too many results about how reliable 6 PSI is on a stock 100k motor. To be safe, would it be cheaper (yeah, I know yada yada yada) to have a shop install new dished pistons & rods rather than buy a $3000 shortblock from a sponsor? Probably not with machine work and assembly & stuff, right? Any thoughts about running a small cam or instead run the stock cam with some LS6 heads? I think for now I'm just going to buy the FI system (including fuel pump & injectors), some LS6 heads, and run it on about 5 PSI until I get more money to upgrade the shortblock? I don't have unlimited funds, things will have to happen one at a time. and I know I need to do things right the first time around, but I hear guys running thousands of miles with 8 PSI on a stock motor.
One last thought, do I really need to do anything to the shortblock besides upgrade rods if I'm only running 6 PSI?.. with a small cam and LS6 heads.
Shoot some thoughts & ideas guys! thanks
Last edited by candlelit; Mar 7, 2008 at 09:48 PM.
super charger might be a lil easier and cost less, and theres gonna be more **** to move around with turbo but its worth it..just do it right. you shouldnt have to do to much to a stock motor to make 450 8-10psi with a turbo..save some money and just do a ls6 cam 02+ if u want. dont buy heads till u build a motor..maybe do a lil work t the ls1 head. i though up these same ideas, i went turbo and ten went broke haha, it all adds up. all stock and streetable went 11.16 oh and the turbo makes more low end power right away and full boost, so get some good tires
build the motor first if you dont have the money to do both, your going to wind up breaking your stock motor and other driveline parts then have the car sit there all summer because you cant afford to buy a new motor or trans or diff after paying for the blower, there are countless people on this site that will agree with me and who have fell victim to not waiting on the FI stuff. and not having money to fix broken stuff. my opinion on forced induction would be a D1SC kit from Bob at EPP. they are very reliable, drive like stock and the setup has been proven countless times to work flawlessly. the install is very easy and if you need any help Bob and his crew at EPP are always there for us.
I know if I go D1sc I'll probably buy it used, since I can get a complete used FI system & a forged shortblock for the cost of a new FI system. but if I had the money I'd definitely turn to EPP, have heard nothing but great things, information, and awesome customer service from those guys. your idea of building the stiffest motor first before the FI is actually a really good idea. at least I'd know I won't break down. perhaps a forged shortblock, a mild cam (how big of a lift/LSA?), and some higher cc heads... maybe a LS6 intake if I can't afford a FAST. are LS6 heads the best/affordable to get on a budget for a FI setup? I definitely don't want to spend $1000+ on a set of heads.
from what I've researched it's been the complete opposite? the turbo takes more rpms to spool as than the supercharger ready to roll off the line. but I do agree that the ATI systems are easier to install
from what I've researched it's been the complete opposite? the turbo takes more rpms to spool as than the supercharger ready to roll off the line. but I do agree that the ATI systems are easier to install
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i believe the price is $6,495.00. that is includeing everything needed the maggie, injectors, boost a pump and you can send them your computer to have it tuned. i think there is other things they send as well. it would be worth giveing them a call. also they told me once that they would lower the cost if you dont send them the computer for tuning.
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Verdad Gallardo thanks for the info discostu
I think I MAY have changed my mind again and go H/C/I since I'll be happy once I get speed & power to a certain point. Even after a forged motor & FI I'll still need to upgrade suspension & driveline as well. My only goals is 11 sec 1/4, streetable, and 400+RWHP. perhaps I should save some money
I think I MAY have changed my mind again and go H/C/I since I'll be happy once I get speed & power to a certain point. Even after a forged motor & FI I'll still need to upgrade suspension & driveline as well. My only goals is 11 sec 1/4, streetable, and 400+RWHP. perhaps I should save some money
I'd go turbo, when used in moderation it's easier on other parts, and power levels can be changed easier. I was in the same situation you're in last fall. My car was H/C/fast 90 and it made 420 rwhp thru an A4 and went 11.80s. The car was tuned well, but over time the MS3 cam got on my nerves nearly daily driving the car when the weather was nice.
I found my hiflo kit used in the F/S section and it was a proven performer on the guys car I bought it from. I'm going to be pretty low boost (7-8 lbs) and eventually double that when I have the rest of the drivetrain to back it up. Best thing is that boost increase can happen turning the boost **** up instead of changing a pulley out
Plus you get near stock driveability until the boost kicks in...well this is true for a blower setup as well.
I found my hiflo kit used in the F/S section and it was a proven performer on the guys car I bought it from. I'm going to be pretty low boost (7-8 lbs) and eventually double that when I have the rest of the drivetrain to back it up. Best thing is that boost increase can happen turning the boost **** up instead of changing a pulley out
Plus you get near stock driveability until the boost kicks in...well this is true for a blower setup as well. I'd go turbo, when used in moderation it's easier on other parts, and power levels can be changed easier. I was in the same situation you're in last fall. My car was H/C/fast 90 and it made 420 rwhp thru an A4 and went 11.80s. The car was tuned well, but over time the MS3 cam got on my nerves nearly daily driving the car when the weather was nice.
I found my hiflo kit used in the F/S section and it was a proven performer on the guys car I bought it from. I'm going to be pretty low boost (7-8 lbs) and eventually double that when I have the rest of the drivetrain to back it up. Best thing is that boost increase can happen turning the boost **** up instead of changing a pulley out Plus you get near stock driveability until the boost kicks in...well this is true for a blower setup as well.
I found my hiflo kit used in the F/S section and it was a proven performer on the guys car I bought it from. I'm going to be pretty low boost (7-8 lbs) and eventually double that when I have the rest of the drivetrain to back it up. Best thing is that boost increase can happen turning the boost **** up instead of changing a pulley out
Plus you get near stock driveability until the boost kicks in...well this is true for a blower setup as well.Last edited by candlelit; Mar 9, 2008 at 01:13 AM.