The exhaust leak at the spot was a prior issue, it was not a problem (this time) when I got to the shop. It was small enough thet it wouldn't have made a difference anyways

Paul

 

Good stuff I can't wait to drive that beast when you get everything straightened out I've always wanted to drive to a mid 10 second@130+mph full weight car

 

someone correct me if im wrong here...i may not have thought this all the way through. why didnt qmp just have the x-over pipe welded from the get-go in the center (right where it goes by the trans) i couldnt understand this when i got it...it seems like it would solve the problem of a possible leak.

 

Wow I would totally install a cutout the Pippster is totally right. B&B sounds nice but with your setup it's like trying to pass a raisin through a straw.

If I had a single turbo I'd be running either a 3.5 downpipe or a 4.0 down pipe if i could make it fit going intoa bullet and a turndown at the axle.

I really think you need to have a MPH goal for the car to make sure it's on track... Intmd8's custom single turbo LT1 is a 357ci and has dynoed over 700rwhp and gone 135mph on drag radials with a 3700 lb raceweight, so I think you should be shooting for similar mph which you can hit with less boost (he was 18-20) with a bigger motor.

 

Close, but actually my car ran 133 and some change running out of gear 100ft before the traps, 18lbs of boost, and 3,800lb raceweight. (at 18.5psi it dynoed 689/700). I still havn't run it with 21 psi where it dynoed 711/745. It also ran 124.5 with 12psi. I'm going to disconnect the exhaust from the downpipe on the dyno to see if a cutout would be worth it.

-Jim

 

That's pretty much what my goal is, 130-133 through the traps. I don't think I'll ever turn the boost that high but I may try 15 psi

Unfortunately the downpipe is integrated which leaves no ability to put a bigger downpipe. I have no intention of creating a new manifold or I might as well call it my kit and sell it

 

It looks like I'm going to spend all day tracking down misleading, inaccurate posts. Oh well. I think I already answered this in anotherthread today, so I'll cut and paste it here as well:

Since I could not post in the Locked thread, I will cut and paste Warbird's quote, and respond:

by Warbird;
"I have been told something similar and this could also be be part of the over-heating issue, this is related to the other side of the car. The passenger side manifold is simply to restrictive making the engine work harder thus generating more heat. I am replacing the passenger side with a customized header to hopefully equalize flow better. I hope this works because I am taking the car back too regularly to replace parts

I've seen Rob's original kit and there are quite a few differences (insert cutting cost here). The cross over pipe is 2 1/2" Rob's first had 3" pipe, the original car had a header on the passenger side we get a stock manifold

Paul" End Quote

I don't know where you get your information, but I really wish you would pick up the phone, or email me direct. EVERY SINGLE THING YOU SAID HERE IS WRONG! I mean, NONE of it is even close to accurate!!!

1. The passenger manifold is not too restrictive. At least not the '01-02 model manifold. Which is what we designed the kit to work with, and include it as well. PORTED even! However, ARE did not opt for that when they ordered your kit. They said they would supply the manifold and port it themselves!!!! That's why we gave them credit for it when they bought the kit! You and ARE definitely have some communication issues that need to be sorted out.

2. We tried a JBA shorty header on the passenger side and gained nothing. EGT's were the same, and therefore showed no difference in heat.

3. My car NEVER had anything but the STOCK '98, UNPORTED, restrictive passenger manifold when it made 707rwhp. Again, where do you get your bogus information???

4. My crossover pipe was only a 2" pipe!! Not a 3" EVER! And yours is a 2 1/4"!! My car now has the 2 1/4" on it as well, but not when it made 707rwhp.


Next on the list, is the topic of your crossover leak. You state that your crossover was leaking at the connection....why was it leaking? We supply stainless bandclamps, and it should not leak there. Nobody else's does. And how can you say that by installing a new shorty header, and fixxing the leak by welding the pipe, that the leak couldn't have been causing a boost problem?? Do you know how little of an exhaust leak on the pressure side it takes to cause a boost problem?? Apparently not. NOTE: THE HEADER CANNOT MAKE IT, as you said, "SPOOL FASTER OR HOLD MORE BOOST". It can only make it more efficiently flowing. And the shorty header doesn't do any better job of that than the stock, ported '01-02 manifold. Obviously, you spent money on a header you didn't need. All you really need was to fix your exhaust leak!

I'm really getting tired of being blamed for other's mistakes, and isolated problems. ARE ordered a "T-74 Tuner Kit" for your car. They supplied the passenger manifold, fuel system, plug wires, tuning, and installation. You have had problems that NOBODY else has ever had with our kit. Stop blaming me, and do some research before you jump to conclusions.

Thank you.

 

Warbird, what "bugs" have you worked out for us? So far, you've given me nothing but grief from your unfounded claims, and posts. I'd rather give you a refund than a free T-76.

 

Warbird - I just read on the other board that you are using a Greddy Profec B boost controler??? Why have you not posted that before?? I could have told you that was a problem. We tried it on Shawn's car over a year ago and had boost issues. We went back to the manual controller (which is what I told ARE to use), and had NO PROBLEMS. Although, with a crossover leak, you were still going to have boost problems, but the Profec B does not work well with the HKS wastegate.

Please post all of the details from now on. It might save you some money.