Official APS Install questions thread
Hmm turbos dont usually lose oil very often at the seals.Normally its a problem with too much pressure in the crankcase,too much oil pressure into the turbo or something happening with the oil draining back to the pan. I have thought I had big turbo problems several times with my dsm cars and each time it was one of the above usually the first one.
Also would be concerned why they turbos are hitting 15psi ,there is no way they should be with the gates supposedly at 7.5 or so standard springs.Almost sounds like problem with line to the gate or something hooked up wrong.
I guess basic questions..are you running electronic boost controller or manual or just the gates? Hook up is different I think depending on if you have electronic or manual controller. What are you running for oil pump and oil pressure? So you are not running the pcv stuff the way they say in the instructions?
And sorry read a lot of threads lately this is a new engine you are running? Forged engine? Obviously 15psi and stock engine would be kaboom very quickly.
And thought you said you hadn't done fuel yet? If so 15psi is likely going to be making you go very lean and detonation can't be far behind.
Hope you get your problems sorted out.
Also would be concerned why they turbos are hitting 15psi ,there is no way they should be with the gates supposedly at 7.5 or so standard springs.Almost sounds like problem with line to the gate or something hooked up wrong.
I guess basic questions..are you running electronic boost controller or manual or just the gates? Hook up is different I think depending on if you have electronic or manual controller. What are you running for oil pump and oil pressure? So you are not running the pcv stuff the way they say in the instructions?
And sorry read a lot of threads lately this is a new engine you are running? Forged engine? Obviously 15psi and stock engine would be kaboom very quickly.
And thought you said you hadn't done fuel yet? If so 15psi is likely going to be making you go very lean and detonation can't be far behind.
Hope you get your problems sorted out.
no i have twin 255
no on the new engine
no on electronic boost controller
slp oil pump with 60psi
Ok twin 255s fuel should be ok I would think..how big injectors?
So not new engine..how much miles on engine..what exact engine again?
And no oil out the back exhaust that would make me think its not coming thru the turbo.
And not sure about oil pressure but sometimes you need restrictors in the lines to prevent too much oil from going thru the turbo. This is more common on ball bearing types that need far less oil. Some guys use nitrous jets in the lines.
And no way you should see 15psi with 7.5 pound tial gates unless there is a problem with line to the gate or the spring is wrong. Tials are usually very good at holding boost very close to spring setting. Run the turbos which think have nipples on them ,have to go look at mine in garage ..anyway run the nipples right to the gates. Direct hook up. That should give minimum boost. If you unhook a line then it would give max boost the turbo is capable off. 15psi IS NOT GOOD! MIGHT BE FUN THOUGH! Course if you are tuned for it no big deal.And if the engine is forged up.
So not new engine..how much miles on engine..what exact engine again?
And no oil out the back exhaust that would make me think its not coming thru the turbo.
And not sure about oil pressure but sometimes you need restrictors in the lines to prevent too much oil from going thru the turbo. This is more common on ball bearing types that need far less oil. Some guys use nitrous jets in the lines.
And no way you should see 15psi with 7.5 pound tial gates unless there is a problem with line to the gate or the spring is wrong. Tials are usually very good at holding boost very close to spring setting. Run the turbos which think have nipples on them ,have to go look at mine in garage ..anyway run the nipples right to the gates. Direct hook up. That should give minimum boost. If you unhook a line then it would give max boost the turbo is capable off. 15psi IS NOT GOOD! MIGHT BE FUN THOUGH! Course if you are tuned for it no big deal.And if the engine is forged up.
[QUOTE][my ride has zo6 cam , 317 heads ls6 intake good fuel setup and on a dynapak dyno at 12psi it made 694rwhp at 6000 rpm and was still going they stop it short because its on a stock bottom end that has just ARP rod bolts they didnt want to kill it./QUOTE]
Found your mods Tom..So you put 15psi thru a stock bottom hypercrap piston engine? OH OH.. would think maybe engine has gone kaboom if you now have oil happening and blowby and full catch cans.I would not have gone past 8psi max on stock engine. Have souvenirs of FI buddies that have if you want to see some pics. CAN YOU SAY SO LONG RINGLANDS!
Hoping its something else but you did know it was a matter of time on a stock bottom motor. And while one weak link is rod bolts the pistons are certainly not well suited to any serious forced air use.
I would be compression testing that motor soon ,not sure if leakdown also would tell you anything. And you say their is no smoking out the tailpipes? If the engine is not fubar would find out quickly what is up with the 15psi you said you were seeing. And don't go full throttle until you get it fixed. Maybe gate is sticking closed or something? Or as said it isn't getting proper boost signal to it.Or the spring in it is wrong.
So no manual boost controller either??
Found your mods Tom..So you put 15psi thru a stock bottom hypercrap piston engine? OH OH.. would think maybe engine has gone kaboom if you now have oil happening and blowby and full catch cans.I would not have gone past 8psi max on stock engine. Have souvenirs of FI buddies that have if you want to see some pics. CAN YOU SAY SO LONG RINGLANDS!
Hoping its something else but you did know it was a matter of time on a stock bottom motor. And while one weak link is rod bolts the pistons are certainly not well suited to any serious forced air use.
I would be compression testing that motor soon ,not sure if leakdown also would tell you anything. And you say their is no smoking out the tailpipes? If the engine is not fubar would find out quickly what is up with the 15psi you said you were seeing. And don't go full throttle until you get it fixed. Maybe gate is sticking closed or something? Or as said it isn't getting proper boost signal to it.Or the spring in it is wrong.
So no manual boost controller either??
Umm so wondering why the f body kits with same turbos are not coming with restrictors..??? Maybe stock ls1 oil pump is not as much pressure as gto pump? I am going to be running melling ,think JM has melling. Wondering which spring to use in the melling. Anyway Peter maybe chime in on the restrictor thing ,as said have seen guys use nitrous jets but would still need to know what size to get.
where are you guys installing your trans cooler i might remove the shield in front of the intercooler my foam and beam are already removed from my previous intercooler tag is cut out and no fog lights should be enough air flow would it hurt to mount the trans cooler in front of the intercooler
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 369
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From: clio mi
Not sure if this is the place but after I have it almost all done. The only real problem I have with the kit besides the RH outlit tube clearence, is why is the RH #1 oh sensor on the top of the tube? I dont see anyway of getting to it at all. Unless you pull the trans out or lower the engine. Why was'nt it put on the bottom faceing inward like the LH side?
This is the only real enginering flaw I can find.
This is the only real enginering flaw I can find.
yea its a pain, i managed to be able to get my hand on it and finger tighten it so far, will try to somehow get a wrench on it tomorrow.
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FormerVendor
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Hell AFB
Umm so wondering why the f body kits with same turbos are not coming with restrictors..??? Maybe stock ls1 oil pump is not as much pressure as gto pump? I am going to be running melling ,think JM has melling. Wondering which spring to use in the melling. Anyway Peter maybe chime in on the restrictor thing ,as said have seen guys use nitrous jets but would still need to know what size to get.
The only issue we have encountered was the inlet tubes sucking shut and sucking oil past the seal.
The c6 kit was gravity drain, no restrictors needed.
Found this info for you guys..
"You were doing some grinding or porting near the motor with the turbo removed. You blocked off the turbo oil drain pipe with a piece of tape. You forget to take the piece of tape and install the turbo. Start it up and instant James Bond smoke. The oil flow into the turbo has no where to go and gets pumped out the bearing seals. If your turbo does this, check the oil drain for blockage, remove it and start it up again. The turbo will be fine, it will take a few minutes of driving to burn out all the oil from the exhaust system. Also a plugged up crank case vent will cause excessive pressure to build up in the crankcase. This prevents the oil from draining out of the turbo and blows the excess oil out through the turbo seals.
The Shaft is Wobbly !!
Mitsubishi turbos use a sleeve type bearing. The shaft spins inside a bronze sleeve (see above pic). The sleeve also spins inside an outer housing. This way; if the turbo is spinning at 80,000 RPM, there is a 40,000 RPM speed differential between the shaft and sleeve, and a 40,000 RPM speed differential between the sleeve and the outer housing. This is what allows the insanely high RPMs common in a turbo. There is a gap between the shaft and sleeve and a gap between the sleeve and housing. These two gaps combined allow the compressor wheel tip to move side to side in what may look like an alarming amount. This is normal. As long as the wheel is not touching the housing, you are fine. There should be no play axially (in and out) with the compressor wheel and shaft. "
"You were doing some grinding or porting near the motor with the turbo removed. You blocked off the turbo oil drain pipe with a piece of tape. You forget to take the piece of tape and install the turbo. Start it up and instant James Bond smoke. The oil flow into the turbo has no where to go and gets pumped out the bearing seals. If your turbo does this, check the oil drain for blockage, remove it and start it up again. The turbo will be fine, it will take a few minutes of driving to burn out all the oil from the exhaust system. Also a plugged up crank case vent will cause excessive pressure to build up in the crankcase. This prevents the oil from draining out of the turbo and blows the excess oil out through the turbo seals.
The Shaft is Wobbly !!
Mitsubishi turbos use a sleeve type bearing. The shaft spins inside a bronze sleeve (see above pic). The sleeve also spins inside an outer housing. This way; if the turbo is spinning at 80,000 RPM, there is a 40,000 RPM speed differential between the shaft and sleeve, and a 40,000 RPM speed differential between the sleeve and the outer housing. This is what allows the insanely high RPMs common in a turbo. There is a gap between the shaft and sleeve and a gap between the sleeve and housing. These two gaps combined allow the compressor wheel tip to move side to side in what may look like an alarming amount. This is normal. As long as the wheel is not touching the housing, you are fine. There should be no play axially (in and out) with the compressor wheel and shaft. "
Wastegate Clearance...... rediculous.
First off, removing the pass side wastegate once installed was almost impossible. I managed to get it off after hours of messing and 1/4 turns in a cramped space. Anyways, the reason i had to remove.... With it installed, i could not get the barbed fitting on the top of the WG for referencing my boost controller. So i took it off and now with it already screwed on, the WG wont fit... the barbed fitting on top hits the tranny. Its an auto BTW. What are you auto guys doing that are referencing for a boost controller?
Also, any tips for re-installing the steering shaft? Thanks!
First off, removing the pass side wastegate once installed was almost impossible. I managed to get it off after hours of messing and 1/4 turns in a cramped space. Anyways, the reason i had to remove.... With it installed, i could not get the barbed fitting on the top of the WG for referencing my boost controller. So i took it off and now with it already screwed on, the WG wont fit... the barbed fitting on top hits the tranny. Its an auto BTW. What are you auto guys doing that are referencing for a boost controller?
Also, any tips for re-installing the steering shaft? Thanks!
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Can't you grind a bit for clearance?Grind the tranny I mean? And it don't matter which way you turn it the top nipple you still have the problem? Think all electronic controllers need the top port and bottom but manual just use the bottom port.
yea. Well its a banjo fitting so no matter which way it's stil lthe same. Grind my tranny eh? Not what i was hoping but maybe a must do. Ugh. Anyone else that has an auto and is using the top port of the WG please chime in! Thanks!
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Good to know you can just do that. I might want to go to same trans at some point if get fed up with my m6. Only problem is might have to take off the gate again to get room to notch it now?
i have a 4l60-e..... Its not the bellhousing that it hits, its this part....
Anyone else out there with an APS + 4l60-e + boost controller????
Anyone else out there with an APS + 4l60-e + boost controller????
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