HUNTER02SS

iTrader: (24)

If you go the twin route then you will take up alot of room. The single route is much easier to place and most of the time you can keep all your accesorie's! My twins are T60-1's from Turbonetics. At 18psi and with the 6 speed I made 1089rwhp! Either way you go you will not regret it. You will be able to exceed your goal of 800rwhp, because that is what i originally set my goal at, and it was achieved very easily! Get a 2-step if you want to build boost with your 6 speed off the line.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

do you have 2 wastegates too, how much $$$ each?
1089whp is certainly overkill for me, because if I hurt my V8, I doubt I could get it rebuilt

Pat-Man

iTrader: (3)

Just one question: if you don't have the money to rebuild your motor, why are you thinking about adding a turbo to it? When going forced induction, you will end up spending a lot of money (seriously - a lot). If you try and skimp out here and there to save a few pennies, you'll end up blowing something up.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

are you saying I should just put aside 4K and wait when will my motor blow?

Pat-Man

iTrader: (3)

Is it your daily driver?

Just reading your posts its seems like you are trying to take the "cheap" route when setting up a turbo system. Yes, it can be done, but how reliable will it be?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

it's one of my 2 DDs.
Yes I'm trying to spend absolute minimum (everything here costs ~80% more than in USA, but medium salary around country is just $8000), but why did you decide I'm gonna skimp on reliability? just asking members to share their experience, and make the cheapest setup that would reliably achieve my goal (800whp in street car)
I have some experience with small turbo-engines, and internal WGs are cheap and convenient, didn't have any problems with mine up to 23psi

HUNTER02SS

iTrader: (24)

2 wstegates! If you are wanting to make 800rwhp and it be bullet proof,or your not going to be able to afford to rebuild it, you might not want to do this now? You can melt a piston just by not having it tuned correctly! Bad things happen alot quicker with the more power you make! What you can get away with on a 500 hp car,will not be same with a 8-900hp car.

Pat-Man

iTrader: (3)

I can understand trying to build a fast car as cheap as possible. I'm trying to do it myself. That is why its probably going to take me years to get my car where I want it to be. There are certain parts of a turbo kit that you do not want to try and be cheap on. Please don't read that the wrong way. First thing is the fuel system, next would be your turbo system components (turbo and wastegates), lastly (and most importantly) is a bad *** tune. Honestly, I have no experience with internal wastegates. I know they are used a lot on stock turbo'd systems, as to why, not sure. I've always assumed using an external wastegate had it advantages though.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Yepp I've burned pistons on my Silvia due to bad reprogramming - it hurts
Hunter, what WGs do you run and what boost-control (MBC or EBC, 1 or 2)?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Are these "76" turbos everyone's referring to?

Precision turbos:
PT76GTQ 975HP OC. .69, .85 Tang. .58, .68, .81, .96 $Call for pricing
PT76GTS 1100HP Tang. .81, .96 $Call for pricing
Turbonetics:
TC76 1000HP P-Trim - $999, F1 trim - $1099, BB - 1399
T76 1100* P-Trim $1389, MPS trim $1449, BB add $500
Garrett
GT-42 76T 1100HP 1.01, 1.15 in Both T4 and T6 housings $1499

?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Hunter, what was changed between these two dyno runs? Please PM if you don't want to share it publicly

edit: read a bit, and it seems that mostly it is AFR heads, lower CR, more timing advance, and higher octane gas?

HUNTER02SS

iTrader: (24)

I changed from the Dart head's to the AFR' head's which lowered the compression, and then I used some leaded race fuel with a higher octane rating and by doing that was able to add a little more timing to it! Other than that, nothing else was changed.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

quick question, what are you going to do for tuning?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

HPTuner, going to use real-time tuning (waiting for 00' PCM to arrive)
however I don't know yet what to use for knock detection (or is LS1 knock sensor reliable enough? my Silvia for example has crappy knock sensor, so we tune them by ears)?

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Oh nice, HP Tuners is a fantastic program. As for knock sensors I know when I had my cam install done I had new knock sensors put in because the ones in my 98 were crap. I would say replace them but the factor ones should be fine I think? Anyone else use something else?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Turbo gurus, which should I choose from ST76 and ST80? Would ST76 produce 850-900whp (rated at 1200hp at forcedinductions.com)? Would it spool noticeably faster?
Would it be considerably easier to fit?

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

pm the guys from FI.com
Dr Turbo is a great help to those with SPECIFIC turbo questions.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

I'm in contact with them but I want to get several opinions (backed up by knowledge and experience) before making my choice
it actually surprises me why only few people used ST76 / ST80 turbos?..
also where do I get to see compressor maps of ST80 and TC76 turbos?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

So even 800whp on my engine may start lifting heads or bending rods or crank or what else?
I remember Corky Bell suggests additional small studs to help clamp the heads, can it be done with LS1 heads/blocks without some very-special workshop?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

P.S. Sorry for asking so many Q's guys, I know I should read more, but... There's tons on info, but I need my decisions made quick, so I can turbocharge my TransAm this season and show all those Evos and Audis in my country what big V8 can do even in such a heavy bus