How many of your are running SD all the time?
Yeah, the single pump wouldn't keep up at all. Running anything above 5 psi, fuel pressure would drop bad. I have a 2nd pump in it now, and it's holding. You could contact Masport in Boca...they did the 2nd pump for me, with a hobbs switch so it only comes on under boost. I haven't even turned the boost up yet....I don't have the money to fix whatever will break with 700 ft. lbs. running through it!!
My 93 LT1 Camaro was speed density.
My bike has no closed loop operation either, no o2s so I assume is a speed density set up? I have tuning software and hardware for it also "powercommander" affliated with Dynojet. I've taken it from Florida 90+ degree weather at sea level to GA 50 degree weather over 3,000 feet above sea level with no problems. So I'm assuming our cars with SD should be fine if the tune is done correctly. Thanks for your replies.
My bike has no closed loop operation either, no o2s so I assume is a speed density set up? I have tuning software and hardware for it also "powercommander" affliated with Dynojet. I've taken it from Florida 90+ degree weather at sea level to GA 50 degree weather over 3,000 feet above sea level with no problems. So I'm assuming our cars with SD should be fine if the tune is done correctly. Thanks for your replies.
Actually, the bike is probably alpha-n, which is basically the crudest form of efi tuning. BTW, my turboed GTO runs in SD all the time, as well as my neighbor's turboed Escalade, which I never even bothered to put into closed loop. Also, almost all aftermarket tuning software is SD, as well as factory Dodge computers. All of those "hemis" you see running around are SD only.
OMG! Deleted the IAT and wondered why the tune changed! It's probably a good thing he sold the turbo kit, as he obviously has no business with one. BTW, I have a (very tight fitting) push-in IAT sensor, and it hasn't blown out at a lot of 10# boost days, and a couple of accidental 15# spikes. That being said, a screw in is probably much safer.
That should work decently, but you may want to look into wiring in a separate IAT. I kept reading people whining about IAT heat soak, and I didn't understand (I may have even wrongly called BS, I'm not sure). Then I started logging IATs on my work truck (my only vehicle with an integral MAF/IAT), and saw the agonizingly slow response rates. The sitting in traffic heat soak really IS as bad as I had read.
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The most common complaint seems to be sitting in traffic or slow staging lanes. The engine heats soaks the sensor. The problem is once you get moving again, some sensors don't immediately respond to the actual tempdrop of the air. In most cases it is just a minor nuisance, but some people can't stand any imperfetion.
OMG! Deleted the IAT and wondered why the tune changed! It's probably a good thing he sold the turbo kit, as he obviously has no business with one. BTW, I have a (very tight fitting) push-in IAT sensor, and it hasn't blown out at a lot of 10# boost days, and a couple of accidental 15# spikes. That being said, a screw in is probably much safer.
BTW, where is the best place to install the IAT sensor in my circumstance? Somewhere fairly close before the T/B?
Yeah, the single pump wouldn't keep up at all. Running anything above 5 psi, fuel pressure would drop bad. I have a 2nd pump in it now, and it's holding. You could contact Masport in Boca...they did the 2nd pump for me, with a hobbs switch so it only comes on under boost. I haven't even turned the boost up yet....I don't have the money to fix whatever will break with 700 ft. lbs. running through it!!
SD and lovin it! I had to go with a sd tune from Nelson Performance in San Antonio so my cam would idle smoother while in gear and with a/c on. I love the sd tune better than with the MAF, more power and more consistant. Drove it from texas to georgia and back with no problems what so ever, still using the IAT. I would recomend it for anybody with a good size cam on the street and of course it is a must for FI.
I've had a few local tuners tell me I'm making a big mistake not running the MAF. Then at the dyno day one of them told me that my car runs more consistant then anyone elses they saw that day. Coincidence? I think not. 2 Bar OLSD
Well, I've been battling a alleged lean o2 (drivers side only) for the past few days with my brand new setup. I have a custom turbo specific Bryan Herter PCM for less tune. I bought 2 new O2 sensors today and new plugs, gapped to .035 and installed them. Crap. Same 160 BLM on the drivers side. I think it's the hotside myself. I'd pulled all the plugs last night to look at the 'lean' condition affect on them. Imagine my surprise when these plugs with maybe 20 to 30 minutes of run time looked black, heavily sooted and wet. That's why I thought it might really be a bad O2. So, I used my LT1 edit and changed Bryans Turbo tune to SD and uploaded it. Now it runs so much better. It still seems to be fairly rich. I shut it off then tried to crank it but it was hesitant to start. Did you guys have to do any attendant changes to the overall tune other than just specify it's now to be SD? Also, I've read this thread and wondered, what all is involved in migrating to a 2 Bar or 3 bar?
Thanks!
Thanks!