W2W and other engine builders: break-in ???
You are going to get 50 different answers....
Most people agree on fluctuating rpms for the first 10-15-20 mins of its life, then a oil change.
From there some people say drive it around and go higher with the rpms(not letting it stay at the same rpm for a long period of time).
Some people take it to the track or strap it to the dyno and let it eat.
Most people agree on fluctuating rpms for the first 10-15-20 mins of its life, then a oil change.
From there some people say drive it around and go higher with the rpms(not letting it stay at the same rpm for a long period of time).
Some people take it to the track or strap it to the dyno and let it eat.
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From: Mufflerville, CA
You are going to get 50 different answers....
Most people agree on fluctuating rpms for the first 10-15-20 mins of its life, then a oil change.
From there some people say drive it around and go higher with the rpms(not letting it stay at the same rpm for a long period of time).
Some people take it to the track or strap it to the dyno and let it eat.
Most people agree on fluctuating rpms for the first 10-15-20 mins of its life, then a oil change.
From there some people say drive it around and go higher with the rpms(not letting it stay at the same rpm for a long period of time).
Some people take it to the track or strap it to the dyno and let it eat.
Use a basic oil, we're using 10W-40. Or you can buy "break-in" oil but it's not necessary. NO SYNTHETIC YET!
Make sure it's good and primed, start it, bring it up to temp a few times/cycles then let it eat a few times on the dyno or the track to "seat" the rings! Change the oil...same basic oil...few more times at the track or on the dyno then you can run synthetic...or not.
Good luck,
Mark
I own 3 of thier motors.....here's Billy's (head engine builder) recommendations.
Use a basic oil, we're using 10W-40. Or you can buy "break-in" oil but it's not necessary. NO SYNTHETIC YET!
Make sure it's good and primed, start it, bring it up to temp a few times/cycles then let it eat a few times on the dyno or the track to "seat" the rings! Change the oil...same basic oil...few more times at the track or on the dyno then you can run synthetic...or not.
Good luck,
Mark
Use a basic oil, we're using 10W-40. Or you can buy "break-in" oil but it's not necessary. NO SYNTHETIC YET!
Make sure it's good and primed, start it, bring it up to temp a few times/cycles then let it eat a few times on the dyno or the track to "seat" the rings! Change the oil...same basic oil...few more times at the track or on the dyno then you can run synthetic...or not.
Good luck,
Mark
I just heat cycle it a couple times with 10w40 (thats what I run in these anyhow), change it, make a few easy passes, change the oil again and thats it. I dont use synthetic, I'd rather change the oil every few track trips and look inside the oil filter. Changing oil that often with synth is a waste of money..
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Exactly what BlwnTA said... Start it, check for leaks, let it come up to temp and let it cool down... Take a couple short spins around the block and let it cool down. Get it to the nearest place you let the BMEP rip and do so... Then change the oil. I'm a fan of Rotella 15w-40, but I doubt it matters for break in... The key is not letting the oil temp up much. I've done this with drag cars, daily drivers, jet boats, sportbikes, dirt bikes, etc... Never a problem.
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You should ask your engine builder as he would know the rings and surface finish that he used, and if they require anything special. We all have our own way of doing things. The oil company's have been cutting back on zinc to protect the cats on production cars lately, so using a brand name oil that is labled "Racing oil" I think is a good idea. A couple of company's are offering break in oils if you want extra insurance.
Kurt
Kurt
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Search is your friend!
Here is a 3 page thread in the Advanced Tech Section. There is a lot of good info and smart people in it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-engineering-tech/672793-engine-break-theory.html
Here is a 3 page thread in the Advanced Tech Section. There is a lot of good info and smart people in it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-engineering-tech/672793-engine-break-theory.html
I like adding a bottle of GM EOS at pre-lube and startup, but it's getting hard to find. I've heard Comp's supplement is the same thing but have no confirmation. I like to pour some on each valvespring right before first start, and add the rest into the oil.
Jim
Jim
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
the stp oil treatment also has almost the same zinc in it, but i cant remember if its the blue bottle or the red bottle. one or the other has more zinc. i have approx. 15 bottles of the gm eos left.
No ****! My motor was driven on the street with 10-30 oil to the dyno about 5 miles then did about 10 pulls, then an oil change with the same oil. Then driven on the street for 1800 soft miles then another oil change with regular 10-30. Next step was a SD tune to 700 rwhp on 91 octane. Changed again after that dyno tune. Now still on conventional 10-30 oil putting 3000 soft street miles on it then plan on switching to 5-40 texaco rotella full syn after that and living happily ever after.
52172 - That is my same basic plan, plus the GM EOS at startup. Generally, my engine break-in is happening at the same time I do a major FI change (changing from a centrifugal setup on a 383 to a Whipple 3.3 on a 434 now), so I have to baby it some while I get a safe, basic tune in there.
Jim
Jim
