what am i doing wrong?
Whatever a P1SC and a six rib 3.3 pulley would put out on a stock engine, dont remember exactly, 8-10psi probably.
I also ran 10.90 with my old SS camaro a few years ago, stock engine and a P1SC/3.2 riechard w/FLP headers but I had a 9' in the car and a TH350. The a/c compressor was removed but the rest was there, wasnt a heavyweight but it wasnt super light either. Main reason it ran quicker was an in car wideband and better tuning software though, was a little easier to get some better power out of it than back in 2001 when no tuning software was available.
I also ran 10.90 with my old SS camaro a few years ago, stock engine and a P1SC/3.2 riechard w/FLP headers but I had a 9' in the car and a TH350. The a/c compressor was removed but the rest was there, wasnt a heavyweight but it wasnt super light either. Main reason it ran quicker was an in car wideband and better tuning software though, was a little easier to get some better power out of it than back in 2001 when no tuning software was available.
Like everyone said before... get better gears, some traction, and more boost!!!
my buddy ran a 11.0x at 125-130ish in his 03 corvette auto with a 3k stall. I think he is running about 12-14 psi with his p1
my buddy ran a 11.0x at 125-130ish in his 03 corvette auto with a 3k stall. I think he is running about 12-14 psi with his p1
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From: MOREHEAD KY
Not to be a dick..
But six years ago I had a 100% stock engined fully loaded 2000 Z28, P1SC, hacked tuning with a HPP3 and MAF translator, 38lb injectors, ST3500 converter and ALL the emissions parts intact along with MAC headers WITH cats. Stock 3.23 rear with 16" ET streets on stock wheels. Absolutely no weight reduction at all, jack and spare were even in the car. Ran 11.30-11.40s @ 123 and I drove it every day. That was 476rwhp on a dynojet with the trans locked.
Seeing the big restriction in your setup is the blower you really need to spin the crap out of it or find a D1SC and upgrade to an 8 rib. But in the meantime you could work on your 60 foot some and try to be more aggressive with the tune, you will have a hard time hurting anything with a P1SC and a 6 rib..
But six years ago I had a 100% stock engined fully loaded 2000 Z28, P1SC, hacked tuning with a HPP3 and MAF translator, 38lb injectors, ST3500 converter and ALL the emissions parts intact along with MAC headers WITH cats. Stock 3.23 rear with 16" ET streets on stock wheels. Absolutely no weight reduction at all, jack and spare were even in the car. Ran 11.30-11.40s @ 123 and I drove it every day. That was 476rwhp on a dynojet with the trans locked.
Seeing the big restriction in your setup is the blower you really need to spin the crap out of it or find a D1SC and upgrade to an 8 rib. But in the meantime you could work on your 60 foot some and try to be more aggressive with the tune, you will have a hard time hurting anything with a P1SC and a 6 rib..
KP you have been very good at helping me so ill ask you this, if i go to an 8in crank pulley and a 3.73 gear will it make a BIG diffenace? and guys i have a 2.37 in the car as of now not a 3.08
-Post your best time slip
-Post your raceweight
Now 11.70@120 makes me think you ran like a high 1.6 or low 1.7 and are full weight, maybe 3700. This isn't bad, but to get the car to 60 ft better you should do drag shocks regardless of doing gear. Converter will help the 60ft more than the gear but more gear will make the combo work better overall and your car won't fall off up top. Blowers like looser converters, I'd run a 4500 or more stall but where you are now, you should just change the no-brainer stuff like shocks, and then do the gears. Where you are now I think a gear swap only might net 1-2 mph and help the 60 a bit, but it's going to take some time to run a 10.9.
My Camaro went 10.92 on motor, that was with 415rwhp dynojet, 3300-3350 raceweight. 60'd a 1.48 on motor and went 99 in the 1/8th. You can get into the 10's on a 1.5 at your power level, but you have to run at least a 1.55 to get there I would think. I made 550rwhp dynojet and went 10.008@133 on a 1.38.
and made 500/495 on the dyno(well did 450/405
-Post your raceweight
Now 11.70@120 makes me think you ran like a high 1.6 or low 1.7 and are full weight, maybe 3700. This isn't bad, but to get the car to 60 ft better you should do drag shocks regardless of doing gear. Converter will help the 60ft more than the gear but more gear will make the combo work better overall and your car won't fall off up top. Blowers like looser converters, I'd run a 4500 or more stall but where you are now, you should just change the no-brainer stuff like shocks, and then do the gears. Where you are now I think a gear swap only might net 1-2 mph and help the 60 a bit, but it's going to take some time to run a 10.9.
My Camaro went 10.92 on motor, that was with 415rwhp dynojet, 3300-3350 raceweight. 60'd a 1.48 on motor and went 99 in the 1/8th. You can get into the 10's on a 1.5 at your power level, but you have to run at least a 1.55 to get there I would think. I made 550rwhp dynojet and went 10.008@133 on a 1.38.
and made 500/495 on the dyno(well did 450/405
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From: MOREHEAD KY
i forgot to put in the 60ft time my bad the BEST 60 ft was 1.98 but most of the time it was 2.11 2.02.12 and the car is full wight
my stall is a 3800 as of now but im thinking of go to a 4500 like PSJ said, is that to much for a true DD?
my stall is a 3800 as of now but im thinking of go to a 4500 like PSJ said, is that to much for a true DD?
this is my piont i see a lot of cars running this kinda times, and not to say that your wrong, but i have killed the stock bottom end with the P1SC and 6rib already(that was my mostly me being dum)
KP you have been very good at helping me so ill ask you this, if i go to an 8in crank pulley and a 3.73 gear will it make a BIG diffenace? and guys i have a 2.37 in the car as of now not a 3.08
KP you have been very good at helping me so ill ask you this, if i go to an 8in crank pulley and a 3.73 gear will it make a BIG diffenace? and guys i have a 2.37 in the car as of now not a 3.08
Depends on your budget on the ET, cheapest thing to do is find an old MMS crank pulley and spin that P1SC for all its worth, the more power you make the higher that converter will stall. I would at least throw some 3.42s in there but people have run OK with the 2.73s and stock 3.23s. Either way I'd be saving for a 12 bolt/9 inch and wouldnt invest a whole bunch in the stock rear unless you arent going to race it much. I wouldnt start fooling with converters until you are at your target HP and the car is hooking up 100%, otherwise you will just be chasing your tail with that..
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From: MOREHEAD KY
Your main restriction is the P1SC, on an F-body its hard to spin one of those high enough to make good, reliable power without the belt slipping. No matter whats on the other end your HP is limited by the amount of air that blower will flow. A stock engine with a D1SC will make more power than your nice engine with the P1SC, thats just the way it is. Didnt say its impossible to hurt an engine with a P1/6 rib but you have to try pretty hard.
Depends on your budget on the ET, cheapest thing to do is find an old MMS crank pulley and spin that P1SC for all its worth, the more power you make the higher that converter will stall. I would at least throw some 3.42s in there but people have run OK with the 2.73s and stock 3.23s. Either way I'd be saving for a 12 bolt/9 inch and wouldnt invest a whole bunch in the stock rear unless you arent going to race it much. I wouldnt start fooling with converters until you are at your target HP and the car is hooking up 100%, otherwise you will just be chasing your tail with that..
Depends on your budget on the ET, cheapest thing to do is find an old MMS crank pulley and spin that P1SC for all its worth, the more power you make the higher that converter will stall. I would at least throw some 3.42s in there but people have run OK with the 2.73s and stock 3.23s. Either way I'd be saving for a 12 bolt/9 inch and wouldnt invest a whole bunch in the stock rear unless you arent going to race it much. I wouldnt start fooling with converters until you are at your target HP and the car is hooking up 100%, otherwise you will just be chasing your tail with that..
If the car is that sluggish look at your tune, the off idle to 5000rpm timing when there isnt a whole lot of boost needs to bear near stock, especially with a low compression engine with a large cam. I bet you can find a good amount of ET there, but you need more airflow.
Not sure what your goals are but a D1SC can make a good amount of power and is a great match for a nice 347 IMO, nothing wrong with an F1/F1A either but you are going to need a pretty stout drivetrain and more fuel system to take advantage of it.
Not sure what your goals are but a D1SC can make a good amount of power and is a great match for a nice 347 IMO, nothing wrong with an F1/F1A either but you are going to need a pretty stout drivetrain and more fuel system to take advantage of it.
I would say no. My car dynoed the same with stock heads and the 317 heads before the procharger. I thought I would lose a little with the 317s but that was not the case. They just drop the compression a little to make it a touch safer with FI but you don't drop enough compression to make a big power difference.
Since you are limited by the amount of air you can flow some higher compression sure woudnt hurt, but if you are going to go into a bigger blower down the road I wouldnt do it. 3/4-1 point of compression isnt going to make huge difference anyhow.
springs I'm fighinting mine right now, and I'd be willing to bet that your car is dying in the upper rpms due to valve's not following the cam, just as I am with stock 6.0 heads, you may need some springs.
Post dyno sheet if possible. at 5000+, mine goes downhill quickly.
Post dyno sheet if possible. at 5000+, mine goes downhill quickly.
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From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
Agree that the dyno sheet would show if he's losing power in the upper RPM band.
