STS Oil Restrictor/Pump Install How-To (Fix for oil in intake/exhaust pipes)
06-10-2008, 03:39 PM
#22
here are the links to those 2 hard 2 find items since no one else will post them
1. mocal pump $179.99. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...al_Cooler_Pump
2. restrictor .065 $14.00. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-OIL1
1. mocal pump $179.99. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...al_Cooler_Pump
2. restrictor .065 $14.00. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-OIL1
06-16-2008, 03:50 PM
#23
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well now I have to get the mocal pump read this article on friday and then on sat. night on the way home from checking out some cars at the local spot. I was on the way back home when I noticed a sound like like something scraping the ground. I looked and low and behold my oil pump is dragging on the ground. Not one to bad mouth anyone but dtp racing in ches. put it in so (not to mention I was not pleased with tune they gave me...) put the sts kit on my car for previous owner. How do you put something like this under a car with frikkin sheet metal screws MOROOONNNNNN.. I can't believe what some people call quality either do it right or don't do it... sorry for the rant but I was Pissed... any way the mocal pump and restrictor are on the way should be in by next weekend i hope.
06-16-2008, 06:09 PM
#24
well now I have to get the mocal pump read this article on friday and then on sat. night on the way home from checking out some cars at the local spot. I was on the way back home when I noticed a sound like like something scraping the ground. I looked and low and behold my oil pump is dragging on the ground. Not one to bad mouth anyone but dtp racing in ches. put it in so (not to mention I was not pleased with tune they gave me...) put the sts kit on my car for previous owner. How do you put something like this under a car with frikkin sheet metal screws MOROOONNNNNN.. I can't believe what some people call quality either do it right or don't do it... sorry for the rant but I was Pissed... any way the mocal pump and restrictor are on the way should be in by next weekend i hope.
because people cant get there act right. Its at lethal performance now
06-16-2008, 11:58 PM
#25
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I am leaving for the Hot Rod Power Tour tomorrow and will check again after that 3K mile road trip. That will be the "real test". So far all is well.
06-17-2008, 09:30 AM
#26
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Drove 2000 miles w/ no issues. No oil in the pipes.
Near Lincoln, Ne the car blew the STS harness in-line fuse for the oil pump. That caused the pump to quit 
. I swapped the standard STS wiring harness 15amp fuse for a 25amp one. 1/2-assed cleaned everything on the side of the road. No issues after that (another 1700 miles of driving).Another shortfall of the STS I learned. When the in-line fuse pops, it also disables the oil pump failure warning buzzer! I saw smoke from the exhaust which is how I knew the pump quit. I ran a wire from the positive lead on the Mocal pump to an idiot light mounted in the dash. That way when the pump loses power, the light goes out.... this was a much more reliable indicator as it works regardless of the STS fuse wiring.
So...... yes, the restrictor + pump kept oil out of the intake and exhaust. But, I'd recommend putting a bigger fuse in the in-line STS harness (25amp).
One final point: If you have a vented catch can (therefore removing the need for the STS PCV cutoff pressure switch), you can run the Mocal pump straight to the fuel pump wiring in the PCM (which is where the STS wiring harness plugs into). With this routing and the aforementioned idiot light.....there is no need for the STS harness. That removes a LOT of wiring from the car and makes it look much-mo-cleaner
Anyhow, that's my $0.02 on the topic.
Last edited by Schantin; 06-17-2008 at 09:35 AM.
06-17-2008, 01:22 PM
#28
(One final point: If you have a vented catch can (therefore removing the need for the STS PCV cutoff pressure switch), you can run the Mocal pump straight to the fuel pump wiring in the PCM (which is where the STS wiring harness plugs into). With this routing and the aforementioned idiot light.....there is no need for the STS harness. That removes a LOT of wiring from the car and makes it look much-mo-cleaner )
Did the wiring thing to the fuel pump relay right off the back, runs great and yeah a lot more simple and cleaner. I agree.
Did the wiring thing to the fuel pump relay right off the back, runs great and yeah a lot more simple and cleaner. I agree
. 
07-02-2008, 08:16 PM
#32
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2. restrictor .065 $14.00. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-OIL1
07-02-2008, 08:33 PM
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In short....it screws into the inlet of the check valve.
Saw the pic....looks like the right one.
07-02-2008, 09:04 PM
#34
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yes i see the difference now thanks, i was scratching my head for a while thinking what i was going to do with this fitting. hopefully this will fix something my car made 365 WHP with a 12lbs(IC-GT67) spring in the wastegate, and i think it could be all the oil seeping into my intake thats causing the power to surge.
07-03-2008, 12:29 PM
#35
Observation/question Part 2: Install a restrictor fitting:
This was not as easy as I originally intended. STS uses a -3AN line to feed the turbine from the engine just above the oil filter. STS also went the cheap route and used common pipe fittings instead of traditional automotive AN fittings. The difference is that AN fittings have ends that are angled at 45 degrees, while pipe fittings have ends angled at 37 degrees (Thanks to Mike at Va Speed for helping me with this bit of info).
This was not as easy as I originally intended. STS uses a -3AN line to feed the turbine from the engine just above the oil filter. STS also went the cheap route and used common pipe fittings instead of traditional automotive AN fittings. The difference is that AN fittings have ends that are angled at 45 degrees, while pipe fittings have ends angled at 37 degrees (Thanks to Mike at Va Speed for helping me with this bit of info).
I have a question regarding the restrictor. I have two turbo cars, a home made rear mount LTx TA and an in-process LSx BMW. The TA had an unrestricted (oil) inlet fed by an AN4 line to a Master Power 60-1 and a Shurflo pump in an AN8 return line to the pan. I think this must be similar to your Mocal unit, as it is heavy and loud. I've never had an oil leak on the turbine side. When I recently upgraded to a T70, I noted a light film several inches in the pipe to the compressor. I'll have to check further up, and I also have a 3" FMIC. I use a vented catch can for crank venting.
The BMW had a front mount journal bearing Garrett GT37 also fed by an AN4 line. I had an AN10 gravity drain line to the pan and a .065 restrictor inlet fitting, and another vented catch can setup. This car leaked oil out the turbine within a couple minutes of startup. Since it was a used turbo, I had it rebuilt and upgraded to a GT40 compressor. The oil leak was still there when I reinstalled it, so I tried an STS style of 2.0 GPM pump (looks identical, different vendor), then a smaller restrictor and then the 60-1. Same leak in the same place. I tried a larger pump (2.6 GPM) with the same leak. I got to reading the book Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes, and he suggests not using an oil inlet restrictor.
I have to give this statement some thought since my TA did not leak without a restrictor yet the same turbo on the BMW with a restrictor did leak.
When I looked at the cross-section of a journal turbo in his book, I can see that excess pressure would push oil past the seals. Using a garden hose analogy, if you make the opening smaller, you decrease the volume but increase the pressure. Since the same principle holds true for a turbo oil inlet, I think the cause of my leak must be the restrictor.
I'm still working on the BMW and will update once this latest version is installed and tested.
07-03-2008, 01:59 PM
#36
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First an observation. SAE J514 37° Flare (also known as AN/JIC) fittings are 37 degree where they seal. Pipe fittings seal by thread only, and do not use any type of angled seat. SAE J512 45° Flare 45 fittings are commonly called flare fittings and do not interchange (seal) with 37 degree fittings. There are also (rare) Japanese Industy Standard (JIS) fittings that are 30 degrees. It is possible to adapt pipe to AN and vice-versa. This is commonly done in automotive installations.
I have a question regarding the restrictor. I have two turbo cars, a home made rear mount LTx TA and an in-process LSx BMW. The TA had an unrestricted (oil) inlet fed by an AN4 line to a Master Power 60-1 and a Shurflo pump in an AN8 return line to the pan. I think this must be similar to your Mocal unit, as it is heavy and loud. I've never had an oil leak on the turbine side. When I recently upgraded to a T70, I noted a light film several inches in the pipe to the compressor. I'll have to check further up, and I also have a 3" FMIC. I use a vented catch can for crank venting.
The BMW had a front mount journal bearing Garrett GT37 also fed by an AN4 line. I had an AN10 gravity drain line to the pan and a .065 restrictor inlet fitting, and another vented catch can setup. This car leaked oil out the turbine within a couple minutes of startup. Since it was a used turbo, I had it rebuilt and upgraded to a GT40 compressor. The oil leak was still there when I reinstalled it, so I tried an STS style of 2.0 GPM pump (looks identical, different vendor), then a smaller restrictor and then the 60-1. Same leak in the same place. I tried a larger pump (2.6 GPM) with the same leak. I got to reading the book Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes, and he suggests not using an oil inlet restrictor.
I have to give this statement some thought since my TA did not leak without a restrictor yet the same turbo on the BMW with a restrictor did leak.
When I looked at the cross-section of a journal turbo in his book, I can see that excess pressure would push oil past the seals. Using a garden hose analogy, if you make the opening smaller, you decrease the volume but increase the pressure. Since the same principle holds true for a turbo oil inlet, I think the cause of my leak must be the restrictor.
I'm still working on the BMW and will update once this latest version is installed and tested.
I have a question regarding the restrictor. I have two turbo cars, a home made rear mount LTx TA and an in-process LSx BMW. The TA had an unrestricted (oil) inlet fed by an AN4 line to a Master Power 60-1 and a Shurflo pump in an AN8 return line to the pan. I think this must be similar to your Mocal unit, as it is heavy and loud. I've never had an oil leak on the turbine side. When I recently upgraded to a T70, I noted a light film several inches in the pipe to the compressor. I'll have to check further up, and I also have a 3" FMIC. I use a vented catch can for crank venting.
The BMW had a front mount journal bearing Garrett GT37 also fed by an AN4 line. I had an AN10 gravity drain line to the pan and a .065 restrictor inlet fitting, and another vented catch can setup. This car leaked oil out the turbine within a couple minutes of startup. Since it was a used turbo, I had it rebuilt and upgraded to a GT40 compressor. The oil leak was still there when I reinstalled it, so I tried an STS style of 2.0 GPM pump (looks identical, different vendor), then a smaller restrictor and then the 60-1. Same leak in the same place. I tried a larger pump (2.6 GPM) with the same leak. I got to reading the book Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes, and he suggests not using an oil inlet restrictor.
I have to give this statement some thought since my TA did not leak without a restrictor yet the same turbo on the BMW with a restrictor did leak.
When I looked at the cross-section of a journal turbo in his book, I can see that excess pressure would push oil past the seals. Using a garden hose analogy, if you make the opening smaller, you decrease the volume but increase the pressure. Since the same principle holds true for a turbo oil inlet, I think the cause of my leak must be the restrictor.
I'm still working on the BMW and will update once this latest version is installed and tested.
Do you have a 1-way check valve to keep oil from leaking into the turbo and pooling when the car is not running? The valve is a simple bullet style check-ball that opens at a couple PSI. Thus, oil flow when the car is running is allowed into the turbo, but it stops the loading of oil from the feed lines when the car is NOT runnning.
This is what your problem sounds like.....no chack valve. The turbo will push oil past the rings on startup no matter whant else you are doing if it's filling w/oil when the engine's static.
As far as restrictors being good or bad.....depends I guess. Sure it ould raise pressure from a partial blockage, but it decreases volume. This is especially important in cars w/ high-volume oil pumps, as the engine is now feeding oil at a high rate, which mos pumps are not capable of returing (or even gravity draining).
About 50% of the turbo LSx cars (front and rear) are running a restrictor of one kind or another. As long as the turbo is getting enough oil (which it diesn't take much), then it's fine. The converse is oiling the intake track, which eventually ends out on the MAF (and will totally screw readings and make a MAF tuned car run like a$$) or the intake, which is not god either. Oil in the intake charge also reduces the efficiency of the FMIC (cause now there's a heat-retaining liquid in a system designed for cooling air). The pros outweigh the cons......
Just my $0.02
07-03-2008, 03:17 PM
#37
Do you have a 1-way check valve to keep oil from leaking into the turbo and pooling when the car is not running? The valve is a simple bullet style check-ball that opens at a couple PSI. Thus, oil flow when the car is running is allowed into the turbo, but it stops the loading of oil from the feed lines when the car is NOT running.
10-20-2008, 07:59 AM
#38
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thanks for the great write up i installed the pump and restrictor this weekend no more smoke out the exhaust
but i did have a question it was said about removing the resistor from the sts wiring and when i do that my car wont run if you go past about 1/4 throttle it falls on its face. it took me awhile to figure out what was causing it since all i really did was install an oil pump but i put the restrictor back in and the car runs fine
any thoughts or ideas would be great
but i did have a question it was said about removing the resistor from the sts wiring and when i do that my car wont run if you go past about 1/4 throttle it falls on its face. it took me awhile to figure out what was causing it since all i really did was install an oil pump but i put the restrictor back in and the car runs fine
any thoughts or ideas would be great
10-20-2008, 11:05 AM
#39
The write up is great info. I just want to let everyone know that you better not use a restrictor on journal bearing turbos. I have a Corvette and the turbos on that are journal bearing from sts. I don't know what comes with the f-body sts kit but be careful. I just wasted my turbos from oil starvation after just 500 miles with .063 restrictors. Now I have two turbos that are 6 months old with turbine and compressor wheel damage. Of course sts won't warranty them since I was honest and told them I used a restrictor. I'm not knocking this thread I am just saying be careful. I am going to a twin mocal setup with pumps in the rear. That should solve my smoke problem. Unforturnatey, I am shopping for turbos and a twin disc clutch since I smoked the LS7.
10-20-2008, 09:55 PM
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thanks for the great write up i installed the pump and restrictor this weekend no more smoke out the exhaust
but i did have a question it was said about removing the resistor from the sts wiring and when i do that my car wont run if you go past about 1/4 throttle it falls on its face. it took me awhile to figure out what was causing it since all i really did was install an oil pump but i put the restrictor back in and the car runs fine
any thoughts or ideas would be great
but i did have a question it was said about removing the resistor from the sts wiring and when i do that my car wont run if you go past about 1/4 throttle it falls on its face. it took me awhile to figure out what was causing it since all i really did was install an oil pump but i put the restrictor back in and the car runs fine
any thoughts or ideas would be great
Aside from that, not sure what to tell ya'. Glad to hear that your oil problem was fixed either way. /that's the biggest battle with the STS.
The write up is great info. I just want to let everyone know that you better not use a restrictor on journal bearing turbos. I have a Corvette and the turbos on that are journal bearing from sts. I don't know what comes with the f-body sts kit but be careful. I just wasted my turbos from oil starvation after just 500 miles with .063 restrictors. Now I have two turbos that are 6 months old with turbine and compressor wheel damage. Of course sts won't warranty them since I was honest and told them I used a restrictor. I'm not knocking this thread I am just saying be careful. I am going to a twin mocal setup with pumps in the rear. That should solve my smoke problem. Unforturnatey, I am shopping for turbos and a twin disc clutch since I smoked the LS7.