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What are high HP guys doing for traction?

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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 09:51 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Perhaps you should get a LPE two-step and then you can control the launch rpm and by doing that you can control the boost (amount of boost at that rpm) too.

For the track if you stay slick get some 28x16 slicks like an ET Drag if they make them. Run the rear shocks stiff since you are stick.

I've gone 1.35 on my 325 DR's but I'm auto. I left at 3600-3700 rpms with my 2 step and only say small boost off the line.

Actually I was looking at the LPE 2 step. I was hoping to get one that would work off the clutch though instead of haveing to play with a button. Anyway to do this with the LPE?

I see mostly 26x16. would something like that be alright?

Last edited by fletchls1; Jun 25, 2008 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 10:40 PM
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i seen one person post about hoosier. whats up with that? check this out and let me know.....


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by fletchls1
Actually I was looking at the LPE 2 step. I was hoping to get one that would work off the clutch though instead of haveing to play with a button. Anyway to do this with the LPE?

I see mostly 26x16. would something like that be alright?
just buy efi live. you can set a two step with that and scan your system at the same time
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 03:31 PM
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Hoosier makes a 28x16 slick:

18153 28.0/10.0-16 A 10.0" 28.0" 88.0" 8-10" 10" 12.0" 23 C07
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Hoosier makes a 28x16 slick:

18153 28.0/10.0-16 A 10.0" 28.0" 88.0" 8-10" 10" 12.0" 23 C07
yes but it is not a radial. I would be running my street tires on the front of the car when it does see the track. From what I have gathered this is what causes the swaying motion correct?
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
just buy efi live. you can set a two step with that and scan your system at the same time
already have hp tuners
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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get M*H DRAG radials .. i blew right through BFG's like NOTHING

M&H radials get my vote hands down !!!!
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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I have the LPE one step (its really a one step not a two) and it works great. They show you how to hook it up off of the clutch pedal so it only engages when the clutch is engaged. It requires the optional RPM module with the stick shift. The other thing is it allows you to keep the car floored when shifting the clutch engagement activates the one step and it keeps the car from over revving. Its really slick. I dont know if the instructions are online but you can come over and see mine unit and read my instructions.
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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its interesting that the hoosier dr's while they are a dot radial they are not legal for street use. i have no idea how that developed
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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ok, how bad would it be if i did just run a slick in the rear and not a radial? I think i am out of options for a 28" for a 16" wheel....without going to the m&h
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Old Jun 26, 2008 | 10:20 PM
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I've done that. It's not bad enough that I won't do it again, just feels like the ***-end of the car's wandering around on the big end of the track.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 07:39 AM
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i wont do it again
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 07:44 AM
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I use sumitomos for my 350rwhp monster.

oh wait.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by CamTom12
I've done that. It's not bad enough that I won't do it again, just feels like the ***-end of the car's wandering around on the big end of the track.
Thats because your driving a 12 second car. Try trapping 140 with Bias/radial mismatch then respond in this thread. I think I would shat myself around the mid 130 range.
When I did it my car was a mid 125 trap car
I wont do it again in my car!
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by fletchls1
already have hp tuners
i didn't say hp tuners. i said efi live
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
Thats because your driving a 12 second car. Try trapping 140 with Bias/radial mismatch then respond in this thread. I think I would shat myself around the mid 130 range.
When I did it my car was a mid 125 trap car
I wont do it again in my car!
they had to do with why i wrecked my formula
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
Thats because your driving a 12 second car. Try trapping 140 with Bias/radial mismatch then respond in this thread. I think I would shat myself around the mid 130 range.
When I did it my car was a mid 125 trap car
I wont do it again in my car!
I run them mismatched in the 160+ mph range. The car feels fine. It probably has more to do with running a wide front tire if you had them on there (I don't know what you ran/run). I know a few people that have tried to run wide street tires on 165ish mph cars and the car is a handful even with matched radial tires. With skinny tires on the front I have zero issues with running either rear tire.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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Agreed
The Op has a street car and we are talking about full size 245-275 width front.
I Believe the issue is full sized radial fronts with Bias slicks in the back.
My strip only tires are hoosier drag radials 325/50/15 on the back with MT bias skinnies and I can adjust the stereo on the big end its so stable
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 02:14 PM
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well that makes it pretty clear.

only option here, know its not ideal but how bad will it be?

3.50 rear gear
26" tall tire
10" width
6 speed transmission

am i going to be out of 4th gear?
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
Thats because your driving a 12 second car. Try trapping 140 with Bias/radial mismatch then respond in this thread. I think I would shat myself around the mid 130 range.
When I did it my car was a mid 125 trap car
I wont do it again in my car!
Agreed... ...a little bit.

My car should only be running mid-11's (not until I build another 9", haha). But I run a skinny front radial so I think that helps a bit. And only trapping in the upper 1-teens is probably a big part of it.
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