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What are high HP guys doing for traction?
What are high HP guys doing for traction? Went to the track last night with the good old street tires on...what a joke. I have a set of MT street et's but those things feel like your on ice when your going down the track so im not even going to bother with those anymore. Anyway, i was literly facing the wall at 111mph in 3rd gear about every run when boost would hit. 4th gear would grab a lot better and would pull like a sob but you could still feel it wanting to give way ( a small amount of wheel hop).
I dont want to hear turn the boost down or do this or that which will cause the car to make less power. Mostly want to hear about what slicks are hooking and feel the best going down the track and traction bars ect.
I dont want to hear turn the boost down or do this or that which will cause the car to make less power. Mostly want to hear about what slicks are hooking and feel the best going down the track and traction bars ect.
I ran a Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial with a 325 / 50R15 and didnt have any problems once I was moving on the track. But if i would try to leave under boost it would just blow them away that was with a turbo car. But I recommend messing with your suspension which i never did. Trying changing your pinion angle to see if you can get it to bite better. Also try removing your front sway bar to get the car to weight transfer better you can tell a big difference by doing this. You shouldnt have any problems with those radials hooking if you get your suspension setup right.
Mickey Thompson 275/60R15 here but I also have an Auto and that helps as well. !front sway bar will help some as well. I have not used Drag shocks yet but I think that would help as much as anything. with enough power to spin in 3rd gear and hop the tires in 4th you better get it squared away quick or it could be bad.
things that make a big difference are as follow and in no particular order: M/T Drag Radials not "et streets" hook awesome when new-ish(depending on power of course), badass adjustable torque arm, tubular adjustable rear lower control arms with relocation brackets, subframes, and a drag shock/springs setup(QA1 etc$$), along with a few other things that can make a big difference 4 you in traction. I'd do the M/T drag radials 1st and see how they work out for you. Then go in with some sort of combination of the other stuff i mentioned...good luck and no dont turn down the boost 
I ran the et streets last yr.. They hooked, but im not a huge fan of the no sidewall thing either... To me the car felt a little scary on the top end.
This yr, once the 9 inch is in i will be running a et street radial. There are car absolutly flying on 275's so it should be more then enough tire. A little bit taller tire might help a little,, ie 28 instead of a 26. Other then that should be just getting the suspension dialed in. As others metion, lca, toqrue arm all adjusted will help.
Ps. It can also be very helpful to keep very exact data when you go to the track, what settings, track temp, da ect and keep records for yourself what you change from time to time. After a couple trips you should be able to get a basic idea of how you need to adjust your car for that track on that day.
Chris
This yr, once the 9 inch is in i will be running a et street radial. There are car absolutly flying on 275's so it should be more then enough tire. A little bit taller tire might help a little,, ie 28 instead of a 26. Other then that should be just getting the suspension dialed in. As others metion, lca, toqrue arm all adjusted will help.
Ps. It can also be very helpful to keep very exact data when you go to the track, what settings, track temp, da ect and keep records for yourself what you change from time to time. After a couple trips you should be able to get a basic idea of how you need to adjust your car for that track on that day.
Chris
Went to the track last night with the good old street tires on...what a joke. I have a set of MT street et's but those things feel like your on ice when your going down the track so im not even going to bother with those anymore. Anyway, i was literly facing the wall at 111mph in 3rd gear about every run when boost would hit. 4th gear would grab a lot better and would pull like a sob but you could still feel it wanting to give way ( a small amount of wheel hop).
I dont want to hear turn the boost down or do this or that which will cause the car to make less power. Mostly want to hear about what slicks are hooking and feel the best going down the track and traction bars ect.
I dont want to hear turn the boost down or do this or that which will cause the car to make less power. Mostly want to hear about what slicks are hooking and feel the best going down the track and traction bars ect.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1469
It sounds like your suspension needs a lot of work. Power and tires alone aren't going to get the job done. Bob
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My car hooks hard with M/T drag radials, it also hooked hard in the past with M/T ET Streets. Here is a video of it on the drag radials.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1469
It sounds like your suspension needs a lot of work. Power and tires alone aren't going to get the job done. Bob
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1469
It sounds like your suspension needs a lot of work. Power and tires alone aren't going to get the job done. Bob
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get the weight on the rear tires and keep it there, wait for better track prep, do a good burn out.
i agree regular street tires are probably a waste of time.
i dont like bias ply tires with radials up front either
just get a good set of drag radials, preferrably mt drag radials. if mine is fine yours should be fine.
i agree regular street tires are probably a waste of time.
i dont like bias ply tires with radials up front either
just get a good set of drag radials, preferrably mt drag radials. if mine is fine yours should be fine.
is it possible to get a mt drag for 16" wheels that would still hook? I notice most people are running 15" wheels. Just for a taller tire? Reason i'm asking is because this is mainly a street car. Actually mainly a garage car that hits the street once every two weeks or so. I just don't want it to be real noticable where i had to cut the plastic to get the slicks to fit. How much cutting is actually involved anyway?
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
If you want to get some quality suggestions you should probably mention you have a stock rearend, and as I recall a completely stock suspension. When I tried to offer you sugestions you said you didnt want to hook untill you upgraded the rearend. I saw some logs of his from the track last year. As soon as the car came on boost it blew the tires off and he shifted. There are some 17" tire options and as the others have stated the MT ET street radials are the bomb. Last time out on the 17"'s I cut a 1.44 60' so the MT's have really worked well for me and ride rock solid.
Here is the Moser 9 inch rear that I recommend, and I would add the lower control arm relocation brackets to it, which will help the car to hook.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=145 Bob
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=145 Bob
Here is the Moser 9 inch rear that I recommend, and I would add the lower control arm relocation brackets to it, which will help the car to hook.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=145 Bob
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=145 Bob
i think the M9 is a great rear. but for street use no way. to loud. just my 2 cents.
MightyMouse,
what do you have for rear and suspension parts. and what size rim and tire you run? and maybe what spring?
currently under the car is poly bmr boxed lca's poly bmr extreme tq arm set up, moser 12 bolt 33 spline posi with 3.42's qa1 shocks, cut v6 rear springs, spohn relocation brackets
eric made a sweet adapter for me to maintain use of most of the bmr tq arm, the rear is hollow axles, star flanged, spool, 3.0 gear, aluminum housing and pinion support
rest of the stuff stays the same, i run a 315/35/17 tire as seen in the sig info
i run all 4 shocks pretty tight
eric made a sweet adapter for me to maintain use of most of the bmr tq arm, the rear is hollow axles, star flanged, spool, 3.0 gear, aluminum housing and pinion support
rest of the stuff stays the same, i run a 315/35/17 tire as seen in the sig info
i run all 4 shocks pretty tight
#1 thing as mentioned is tires. If you can run a 15" wheel I suggest the Hoosier Drag Radial. I've seen others say it hooks better than the MT Street radials. I haven't run the MT Radial but I have been running the Hoosiers. My best 60' is a 1.48 with the only susp mod being LCA's, and I'm full weight. They work really good.