less10

But you cant run the t56 behind it. And im pretty sure this guy is wanting to run his t56.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

Yes you can, my friend has a t-56 behind his in a 2000 silverado.

ZR1 DREAMING

iTrader: (27)

Well if he's keeping the stock long block an LQ4 would be the way to go since the CR is more boost friendly. The LQ9 is at 10.5:1, wich isn't terrible for boost but not what I would run for a big boost turbo build. (then again I wouldn't run a stock long block either )

Yes you still can, it's only the pistons that are different in the new ones. And in the early LQ4s the rods weren't as strong as the LQ9.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

the rods being the reason to use a LQ9, you can make 500 to the tires and still run pump gas with a good tune. We have made 825whp with a junk yard lq9 with race gas and meth.

bottledbird68

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so I'm searching the local wrecking yards around here and I have another question then. Is the LQ9 worth an extra $500 over the LQ4 or is it pretty much still a ticking time bomb either way?
And, If I do decide to bite the bullet and upgrade the rods and pistons what can I look to make for power reliably and does it really matter what motor I start with at that point?
I'm just really leery of spending good money on a bottom end anymore. I sank 10g into my 455 and scattered it in less than 5k miles while I see junkyard motors with junkyard turbos lasting 4 or 5 seasons at a time. Granted I know it's all luck of the draw but I kinda like the idea of going to the yard and picking up my new race motor all ready to bolt in for a grand or less

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

Its not so much luck as good tuning and fuel. We found the Lq9 for Dave's car for $750.

bottledbird68

iTrader: (2)

Around here the LQ9's seem to be going for $1,200 to $1,500 while the LQ4's can be had for $800 to $1,000.
Is it that much stronger of a rotating assembly that it justifies the extra $$?

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

I would imagine you can make good power on the LQ4, I have yet to push one beyond 600whp myself. The LS2 and LQ9 have made it to 750whp and 825whp on the dyno here and then survived some good street punishment.

bottledbird68

iTrader: (2)

Hm, sounds like I might be ok either way then.
My ultimate goal is 500 something rwhp on pump gas then turn up the boost add some meth and flirt with 700 rwhp. I would love more but realistically I think that will be just fine for now and hopefully not going too crazy will extend the timer

Chevy-art

iTrader: (4)

So you don't like the pre-02 longblocks, but the intake, throttle body, harness, PCM, and accessories are all good to go. I guess I will look for the newest 6.0l I can find. I know how to identify a 6.0. But how can you tell what year it is? Thanks Art...

camarokid94

iTrader: (2)

so pre 02 blocks if you get an aftermarket crank will that fix the problem?

im about to buy an 01 6.0 4l80E 2wd truck for cheap and was gonna do a swap with turbo to my old 94 V6 car. planned on upgrading the rod piston combo for now only.

ninetres

iTrader: (35)

A new crank would fix the problem if you happen to get one of the bastard blocks. I believe they began phasing them out in 2000.......so I'm not sure if they made it into the early 2001 models.

There is no issue until you get into an after market flexplate and converter.

camarokid94

iTrader: (2)

oh really now
well lOL that kinda Fs me casue i didnt want to add a crank but i guess if i have to since i will need an after market flexplate and converter that i will stroke it at the same time then.

so can i use my old ls1 crank in place of the stock 6.o???????

veee8

iTrader: (40)

Yes, after getting it rebalanced.