quick and easy question...
go with AFRs then i still need to drop cash on valve train.... I see where your coming from man. AFRs/TFS are the way to go.. im just trying to see if 317s will get the job done. And so far ive got some mixed reviews here..BUT, im thinking i can get the 317s bought/ported & valve job for about $1,500 *HOPEFULLY*, some double springs, and some rebuilt stock rocker arms.. i can see that being around $2,000...
go with AFRs then i still need to drop cash on valve train.... I see where your coming from man. AFRs/TFS are the way to go.. im just trying to see if 317s will get the job done. And so far ive got some mixed reviews here..BUT, im thinking i can get the 317s bought/ported & valve job for about $1,500 *HOPEFULLY*, some double springs, and some rebuilt stock rocker arms.. i can see that being around $2,000...
What about headstuds, where would be the upperlimit hp vice for 11mm studs?
and i have run 11mm studs to over 1500hp,there was some other tricks done with heads gaskets as well as aftermarket heads,but the studs will hold if everything is done properly
I had a nice TEA ported set of 853 heads (from like '02, kinda outdated, but a nice set), already had a forged bottomend and didn't wanna change pistons though (compression with the 853s was too high for my liking for any kinda psi from this kit - see sig for specs). Soo...bought a set of 317 heads with one broken stock spring on them for $200, disassembled them myself, bought a set of TSP .650 lift dual springs (the good ones with all the goodies included - around $280 I think for the set?). I reused the stock valves that were in the heads and had the machine shop clean up everything, vat the heads, smooth the surfaces of the valves - made sure they were all good, had them do a 3 angle valvejob, take a teeny tiny bit off the deck to make sure they were good and perfectly flat, and had the shop assemble them... got all that done for about $300. I decided to not have them ported, that would have about doubled the cost of the heads had I gone that route. These heads are essentially an LS6 head with larger chambers (I'm sure you may know this if you've researched them much) and have better flow characteristics than the other 853/241 casting ls1 heads.
I used the 5 layer MLS gaskets, 12 pt ARP head studs, and torqued them to spec. The next day I went back and retorqued the heads again. I plan on being very conservative with the tune and not even close to too lean. I'm also planning on retorqueing the heads after the first full power pull on the dyno at 8-9 lbs (starting here, eventually moving up to 14ish when I do a th400 and 9"). I'd rather not push any water if at all possible!
So, long story short, like said above, if you want a great ported set of heads (unless you find a cheap set of 317s already done) save a lil more dough and get the AFRs....but 317s can be made to work if you use good stuff, take your time, and do it right.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I had a nice TEA ported set of 853 heads (from like '02, kinda outdated, but a nice set), already had a forged bottomend and didn't wanna change pistons though (compression with the 853s was too high for my liking for any kinda psi from this kit - see sig for specs). Soo...bought a set of 317 heads with one broken stock spring on them for $200, disassembled them myself, bought a set of TSP .650 lift dual springs (the good ones with all the goodies included - around $280 I think for the set?). I reused the stock valves that were in the heads and had the machine shop clean up everything, vat the heads, smooth the surfaces of the valves - made sure they were all good, had them do a 3 angle valvejob, take a teeny tiny bit off the deck to make sure they were good and perfectly flat, and had the shop assemble them... got all that done for about $300. I decided to not have them ported, that would have about doubled the cost of the heads had I gone that route. These heads are essentially an LS6 head with larger chambers (I'm sure you may know this if you've researched them much) and have better flow characteristics than the other 853/241 casting ls1 heads.
I used the 5 layer MLS gaskets, 12 pt ARP head studs, and torqued them to spec. The next day I went back and retorqued the heads again. I plan on being very conservative with the tune and not even close to too lean. I'm also planning on retorqueing the heads after the first full power pull on the dyno at 8-9 lbs (starting here, eventually moving up to 14ish when I do a th400 and 9"). I'd rather not push any water if at all possible!
So, long story short, like said above, if you want a great ported set of heads (unless you find a cheap set of 317s already done) save a lil more dough and get the AFRs....but 317s can be made to work if you use good stuff, take your time, and do it right.



