does anyone have a turbo on a m6, i was curious, ive heard you dont get the boost in 1st and alot of second, but then again i heard the boost comes as soon as the rpms are there. vidoes would be nice too lol

i just want to know because ive been looking into both supercharger and turbo for the car, and im using it for a dd so i dont wanna kill the economy it has. why have something if you cant play with it whenever you want

 

I have heard lag is mostly a problem with the sts rear mount kit! But i will find out soon enough if its just bad lag for rear mounts lol.

 

Just as long as you are not shooting for alot of horsepower you can have a very fast spooling turbo.

 

I have an STS (GT67) with an M6. The turbo starts making boost above 2k rpms in 4th and possibly 3rd. 1st gear never reaches full boost, maybe about 4.5psi (running 6.5psi), second is about 5.5, third is like 6+ and 4th is full boost. In fourth I'm pretty sure it's full boost by 4k rpm.

In 1st, as soon as the boost hits you either start spinning or it accelerates so fast it's time to shift NOW.

My mileage hasn't gone down too bad either. I averaged 20-21mpg driving 25miles freeway, going through about 4 stops signs on campus (lots of hills too) and then the reverse on the way home. Best pure freeway mpg before was 30 flat. The closest to pure freeway i've driven since then was 25+mpg but still had a couple of stops in there. Definitely worth it, lots of fun to drive and gets noticed by quite a few people.

 

What is your exhaust setup and is it wrapped/coated at all?

 

STS/M6 here. Lag just helps the tires try and keep up.

 

I've never hooked first long enough to make the car make a decent scoot... I will peg the boost gauge though as it hunts for traction unless I intentionally blow the tires off for fun.

 

I originally wanted a turbo set-up but I have been told that turbos are a PITA...constantly have tuning issues?????? Is this true? I want to take the car to a tuner, have a turbo kit installed and drive the car home. I don't have any local tuners so if there is a problem I have to trailer the car hundreds of miles. I had a H/C installed three years ago and have never had one issue. I want to be able to wlk into the garage, get in the car and go...I don't want to have to worry if I am going to have a problem tomarrow or not. What do you guys think?

 

If it is tuned correctly the first time (and no changes are made in an SD setup) it won't need to be touched.

The problem with forced induction on platforms not designed for it: they can head south quickly comparitively to NA engines. It is very easy to grenade a turbo/SC car, whereas NA - it takes some work.

 

Lots and lots of factory manual turbo cars..sti, dsms,porches,etc.etc. Manual cars have more trouble making boost off the line especially. But there are tricks. You can buy things like two steps, you can use things like antilag to build boost. My dsm can do it with software ,lingenfelter makes a two step,antilag thing for our f bodies to do it in hardware.
And as said sometimes lag is good thing for traction reasons .And not building full boost right away is similar .Fact you can get boost controllers that let you set different boost levels according to gear,etc.

As for turbo cars being super fussy thats pretty much baloney. Once you get it in the car and get basic tune happening they are not fussy at all. Factory has been putting out turbo cars forever. Many of my dsms thats talons,lasers and eclipses for those of you that don't know what dsm means have well over 100,000 miles on them and still ran fine. Original turbo,engine,etc.

You need to put in proper support mods for turbo. Upgraded injectors,fuel pump, tuning,and at bigger power things like stronger rear end,clutch,forged engine parts but you can put on a kit like sts kit and run it just fine on nearly bone stock engine.Local guy in our local club has been running an sts rear mount for several years. He has 42 pound injectors and stock fuel pump. Spec stage 2 clutch, 3.73 gears on stock rear end. He don't track the car either. Its been very reliable and runs great estimate 400 or so rwhp with 5psi that he runs . I helped him tune it up and it was simple enough. Just got the afr in range with my wideband and timing and all that so he don't get knock and good to go.

I would not be afraid to turbo a car. But you can buy real junk too off ebay and stuff have to buy quality parts. I have also seen some great ebay built cars but as said you need to get quality stuff and be very careful of knock offs. There are knock off wastegates, turbos, blow offs etc and many of these things are of course junk.

One guy with auto in third gen did build an ebay setup and gets 11.2 at 125mph .Nothing wrong with that.

 

OEM's started life as a turbocharged car, they have the systems,materials, design etc to fully support and sustain operation. I'm not going to say aftermarket turbo`ed rides won't last, but you can only expect so much...

 

The key is not to be greedy.Run 5psi forever, take it up higher than that and you might be living on borrowed time. Take it up higher than that and you are going to start needing those stronger parts. 7psi is safe enough if everything is dialed in. Our ringlands are very weak in the ls1 cars so you can take out the engine if you are stupid or accidentally. Know what you are doing or buy a kit and stick to the kit guidelines.
Nothing in life is certain. Factory turbo cars break too. So do NA cars.

**** or tires its going to cost ya.

 

i like **** on new tires.
i'll be another m6 with a boosted bone stock ls2 cts-v (worlds first and only).
i'm installing a rear mount custom gt67, and have set a goal of
500 rwhp max, as anything more will make this car a tail chasing project
with trying to keep everything from breaking. i know the limit and trying to push
more out of a stocker (other than clutch upgrade, ls7 & flywheel pkg) will result in
blown parts all over the highway. be smart, set reasonable limits, and hope for the best,
and with some luck and alittle street smarts you can have the best of both worlds.
good luck and keep me/us posted.

to add more imput with boost spool time(lag) in 1st and 2nd is almost a blessing
as all that low end grunt is what breaks rears and driveshafts...once your in
3rd is where the "magic" happens as that is the "sweet spot" for a street/dd
vehical and most (if not all) highway roll on races, are in the sweet spot, ...
just imagine a z06 rolls up next to you on a 4lane hiway...he looks at you like
u sleep in shyt cuz he's got a vett...you each give the phuk u nod...now it's on!
you downshift from 5th to third right in ur "sweet spot" and blow him a new azzhole!
now his girl writes down ur plate and searches the interent to find out where u live, only to show up a week l8tr at your doorstep not wearing any panties. ya~meeeen!?
okay, okay...we all know reality, don't ruin the fantasy! for gods sakes! geez!

 

+1

1st gear is pretty much useless...2nd isnt much better here...even with BFG KDW DR's at about 18psi. and this is only at 7.5psi boost...those poor tires dont stand a chance.

 

T61M^3: I've only got half of my exhaust wrapped, from the cats to the end of the y-pipe. Just haven't had time to finish the rest. No problems with tune issues here either.

My tuner is 240miles away. Picked the car up and drove 240 miles home with no problems. The only problems I've had were: 1) sucking up a little water when we had some nasty rain and I hadn't scotch-guarded the air filter sock in almost 2 years and 2) blowing off the pipe where the BOV is mounted because I modified the mounting tab. The tab goes onto the rear mount for the front lower control arm which I didn't like because it felt like my alignment would get crappy every time i hit that pipe, which I did often because I had an Eibach Pro-Kit (bad idea) on it when I got the turbo installed. So I modded the tab and was trying to use conduit holders with a piece of flat steel mounted to a hole by the control arm mount with the holder mounted to that. Every 3 or 4 months the holder would be so badly bent from boosting that the pipe would slip down and out of the silicone connecting it to the MAF. The new mount and T-bolt clamps solved the problem.

 

My ride will not hit peak boost in first and still fights for traction. Full boost comes very fast by 3200 rpms in second and all the other gears. I am glad it doesn't build boost very well in first traction is already a problem.

 

What drugs were you on when you wrote this?

 

just some sweet stinky and a oc 80...
lmao!

 

OMG, there's no way I'm reading this compositional failure... Any cliffs for this post?

 

When I had a STS on my car I could not make full boost in 1st gear. I had a 5lb wastegate spring....saw 4PSI in 1st. From 2nd gear on I could get full 5PSI. In 3rd gear and above I had full 5PSI by 3000RPM's. I had a wrapped exhaust which helped in boost lag, but had retained my LT headers that were detrimental to boost production. It's a funtion of exhaust velocity + load. More load = more volume of exhaust to spin the turbine. A M6 car has a very steep 1st gear. Hard to produe the load needed to produe full boost in 1st gear as a result.

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ID3MPLX8oz0