worth it to move FP regulator to the rails?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
From: Central California
worth it to move FP regulator to the rails? hi all... just need some guidance on my fuel system planning. Right now i only have a single in-tank walbro with MSD boost-a-pump, everything else stock (lines, rails, regulator, etc...).
Originally, I wanted to go with a dual pump setup, but that is way overkill for what i have planned in the near future... so with that i have a few questions. I am going to be installing a fuel pressure gauge, and while i'm at it, was thinking of upgrading all the plumbing by adding rails, a return line, and moving the regulator up front to keep pressure steady.
So my question is, would it be worth it to upgrade? I would need to go shopping anyway to get the correct fitting to mount my gauge to the stock rails, but should i just upgrade the lines/rails and add a regulator while i am at it? Would this upgrade give me any safety over my current setup? Or should i just leave everything stock as is and just add in the gauge? 550 rwhp max is what i'm working with right now... thanks guys!
Originally, I wanted to go with a dual pump setup, but that is way overkill for what i have planned in the near future... so with that i have a few questions. I am going to be installing a fuel pressure gauge, and while i'm at it, was thinking of upgrading all the plumbing by adding rails, a return line, and moving the regulator up front to keep pressure steady.
So my question is, would it be worth it to upgrade? I would need to go shopping anyway to get the correct fitting to mount my gauge to the stock rails, but should i just upgrade the lines/rails and add a regulator while i am at it? Would this upgrade give me any safety over my current setup? Or should i just leave everything stock as is and just add in the gauge? 550 rwhp max is what i'm working with right now... thanks guys!
A front mount regulator can help maintain a steady pressure. This becomes much more important in the 600-650rwhp range as the line restriction becomes more apparent. you are probable only seeing a few psi drop at your current level.
The advantage is that you can also boost reference your pressure to get more fuel under boost without having to increase your injector size. You would have to retune if you did this.
I have complete kits if you are interested.
The advantage is that you can also boost reference your pressure to get more fuel under boost without having to increase your injector size. You would have to retune if you did this.
I have complete kits if you are interested.
I did a little experiment with my car (2002 SS, bolt-ons only, no nitrous, no F/I), and moved the regulator up front while still using the stock tank and stock pump. I found that my fuel pressure is much more stable under all conditions, and especially under WOT. My pressure used to drop from 58 psi down to 48-52 psi at WOT...now it only drops to 56 psi.
That was my car...your results may vary.
Really, I was just curious if it would help with my fuel pressure fluctuations, so I just threw money at the problem, leading me to my final point - it isn't cheap to do something like this. You'll most likely be looking at new rails, braided lines, and all the necessary fittings...it adds up ($$$$) FAST.
That was my car...your results may vary.
Really, I was just curious if it would help with my fuel pressure fluctuations, so I just threw money at the problem, leading me to my final point - it isn't cheap to do something like this. You'll most likely be looking at new rails, braided lines, and all the necessary fittings...it adds up ($$$$) FAST.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
From: Central California
thanks for the reply's guys.... i think i am going to upgrade the plumbing just so it is one less thing to have to worry about later on... does everyone just run the return line back into fuel bucket? PM sent to Lonnies....
That's what I did with mine...I converted my EVAP hard line (5/16") to a return that goes all the way back to the tank, and just capped off the T-fitting back by the fuel filter where the return used to be.
I got the hold downs and I got everything on today. I don't have fuel pressure now. I turn the key, I hear some "priming" the gauge moves a tad and drops down to zero, I crank it and nothing happens. The passenger side rails get the feed, goes around the back and up the driver side where the regulator is mounted. The bottom port goes to the return. I removed the stock fuel pressure regulator in the tank.
I used the evap as the return. All I had to do was remove that part and run the line there correct? Or am I missing something, well obviously I am, there's no fuel pressure.
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Verdad Gallardo Alright, no problem. As far as the fuel system goes:
walbro 255 pump
fuel rails
boost referenced regulator
I removed the stock fpr, took the extra hose off from the feed and evap ran the feed to the passenger side, crossovers in the rear, regulator is mounted on the rail. The boost is referenced from the housing on the turbo. The bottom port goes to the evap line. I changed the IFR and offsets to reflect the boost ref reg. I'll post up a pic in a minute
walbro 255 pump
fuel rails
boost referenced regulator
I removed the stock fpr, took the extra hose off from the feed and evap ran the feed to the passenger side, crossovers in the rear, regulator is mounted on the rail. The boost is referenced from the housing on the turbo. The bottom port goes to the evap line. I changed the IFR and offsets to reflect the boost ref reg. I'll post up a pic in a minute
That's some serious **** right there...you definitely just need to block off that t-fitting in the back like we talked about. Otherwise, since you removed the pressure regulator in the tank, the fuel can go both forward and back to the tank, but there's now nothing back there to build pressure. Once you do that, and make sure the return now goes from the EVAP hard line in the back up to the top of the tank (instead of from the t-fitting), you should be good to go.
Right on. Still can't find what the 4 lines are for though. I won't be able to do it this weekend so it will have to wait until next weekend. So hopefully I can find out everything that I need so I can knock it out on saturday real quick and get to tuning.
I'm looking for that info too for a 1998 tank - and I can tell you from personal experience, no turbo, no boost referencing on my setup, that I still had to pretty drastically change my tune to get everything back in line. My fuel pressure was dropping off from 58 down to 48-50 psi under WOT before I moved the reg up front - after, it only drops about 2 psi at WOT.
I haven't seen any boost yet, so thats all new territory up top anyways 
I'm learning about tuning while my cars sitting. Its all about the scanning is what I'm gathering and having a smooth ve table. 2 bar SD right now, I drove it around and had some excessive blowby thats why I got the cans. Hopefully that fixes it and I don't need a new motor right away. I also have some meth and 2 step that will be getting some action eventually.
I'm learning about tuning while my cars sitting. Its all about the scanning is what I'm gathering and having a smooth ve table. 2 bar SD right now, I drove it around and had some excessive blowby thats why I got the cans. Hopefully that fixes it and I don't need a new motor right away. I also have some meth and 2 step that will be getting some action eventually.
Found this for an LT-1 (but it looks like it is the same tank as on a '98):
http://www.geocities.com/formulapower2/fuelpump.html
This is the part that I was paying attention to:
Now you need to disconnect the fuel lines. There are four lines that run to the pump as you can see in the picture. The feed and return lines have the squeeze connectors on them and the vapor lines have rubber connectors. I disconnected the vapors lines first and then worked on the feed and return lines. You should be able to get your fingers in to squeeze the disconnects. It's best to work one at a time. If you can't get your fingers in try to depress them with a screw driver. You'll hear the connectors click when the release. The just pull and the should come free. Once you've got all the line disconnected, pull the pump assembly up and forward (you may have to pull a little on the longer line to get it out of the hole. Once all the lines are out of the hole slowly rotate the assembly clock wise till the lines are pointing toward the front of the car. Now pull up and tilt the assembly toward the drivers side of the car so it will come out of the hole. BE VERY CARFUL when pulling the pump assembly out so you don’t mess anything up. You will be able to tell which way you need to bring it out when you see it.
Doesn't exactly tell you which is the return and which is the feed, but it might make it easier to figure out which 2 out of the 4 are the ones you need to be looking at.
http://www.geocities.com/formulapower2/fuelpump.html
This is the part that I was paying attention to:
Now you need to disconnect the fuel lines. There are four lines that run to the pump as you can see in the picture. The feed and return lines have the squeeze connectors on them and the vapor lines have rubber connectors. I disconnected the vapors lines first and then worked on the feed and return lines. You should be able to get your fingers in to squeeze the disconnects. It's best to work one at a time. If you can't get your fingers in try to depress them with a screw driver. You'll hear the connectors click when the release. The just pull and the should come free. Once you've got all the line disconnected, pull the pump assembly up and forward (you may have to pull a little on the longer line to get it out of the hole. Once all the lines are out of the hole slowly rotate the assembly clock wise till the lines are pointing toward the front of the car. Now pull up and tilt the assembly toward the drivers side of the car so it will come out of the hole. BE VERY CARFUL when pulling the pump assembly out so you don’t mess anything up. You will be able to tell which way you need to bring it out when you see it.
Doesn't exactly tell you which is the return and which is the feed, but it might make it easier to figure out which 2 out of the 4 are the ones you need to be looking at.
FYI: if you click on this thread and scroll to the bottom, you'll see what I used to block off the t-fitting in the back.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...size-plug.html
That's the correct fitting to use, but people have done it with a pipe plug as well with no issues. I just figured that since I went that far, I might as well just order another part and finish what I started. I'm pretty retarded like that...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...size-plug.html
That's the correct fitting to use, but people have done it with a pipe plug as well with no issues. I just figured that since I went that far, I might as well just order another part and finish what I started. I'm pretty retarded like that...
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 0
From: Central California
just trying to clear some things up.... did you run a new feed line? What did you do with the stock feed if you used the evap for the return?
Like meentss02 said, there must be something you didnt cap off that is letting fuel back in the tank... at least thats what it sounds like
Like meentss02 said, there must be something you didnt cap off that is letting fuel back in the tank... at least thats what it sounds like
All the stock lines are untouched. The T has to be capped in the middle and the tank lines have to be routed correctly. I still can't seem to find out the 98 diagram. And as far as your T, I tried to take the middle line off and gas would not stop coming out of there. I had the lines disconnected and it still kept pouring out. Any idea whats going on there? I took two showers and still smell like gas. It doesn't bother me, but my wife won't come near me. So I guess now it does bother me
Also did yall remove your canisters?
Also did yall remove your canisters?
Yeah...we talked about it over the phone, and he didn't have the t-fitting capped off.
As for my canister...it is still in there. I just put a rubber hose with a plastic vent on top of the tank to let the fumes become one with nature.
As for my canister...it is still in there. I just put a rubber hose with a plastic vent on top of the tank to let the fumes become one with nature.
I've done a bunch of searching and the only thing I can find is that the two other lines aside from the feed and return are routed to the canister. Apparently one of them is ok to vent and one of them is not. Don't know which one though. I was going to just try and cap that middle port on the T and tons of fuel came out and my bucket was almost filled. Don't know where all of it came from though, the lines are unhooked. I'm guessing the canister.
If I get time this week I'll take a peek inside the tank and see what has to be done and hopefully cap that T.
If I get time this week I'll take a peek inside the tank and see what has to be done and hopefully cap that T.
