needs to be close to the fuel rails. more acurate readings for when you start getting into higher hp levels

 

Bringing this thread back..."Gauge" I see in your pictures you kept the EVAP, am I looking at this right?
So from your FPR you ran a return line to the T and tied it into the return line there?

 

THIS is what needs to be put out. i did not know the factory fuel rails had a -4an hook up. that is genious without having to go all out crazy with aftermarket stuff.

 

had a few extra questions for ya.
first off how has this setup held up since you did it this way 3 years ago?
how did you return your fuel? did you use the evap line or did you run a dedicated line?

 

How much power are you trying to make? You can run the regulator before the rail, this is how we do our setups sub 900rwhp on e85. We use a mallory 4305M regulator, can use stock feed line and evap as return then run a 6an from regulator to the rail.

 

i myself am trying to get about 600HP with mine. i didnt know you could install it before the rail. is it optimum to have it before or after the rail?

so on your set up you have it at the feed line, and the the return line then goes right throught the evap system?

 

Optimal no, but does it work fine YES! We've done this on several cars with no issues, some people will tell you that you can't do it, but they have never done it, most just have read on the internet you can't do it that way. It works fine for us on the power level mentioned, above that you really need aftermarket rails and regulator after the rails.

On stock fbodies yes we do it that way.

 

sweet! sounds good. and i totally agree with you on over 900HP lol aftermarket rails should be looked into once you get that high up.
think im going to go that route. what parts do you need exactly to fit the FPR to the feed and stock line?

 

On the stock fuel rail did you have to do anything with the stock regulator? Question that is the stock regulator on the fuel rail the black round piece on the inlet side

 

The regulator is in the tank and you have to remove it to add an AFPR

 

can anyone post up how and where to tie into the EVAP return to use it and turn it into a fuel return? i know you can block the T off in the back, but im still fuzzy how to hook it up. it would help if i had my car right now to look at it closer but a littl ehelp please lol

 

alright im clear on what to use to make it work. Now do i have to use 6an for return or can i run 4 an line back to the 5/16" connection?

 

assuming you're using the port with the Schrader valve on the OEM fuel rails... I think 4AN is enough since that very port is really only 4AN

 

ok, i just want to meake sure i dont create a flow restriction having a 4an line as a return back to the tank.

 

how do I make this work on my car. I have the stock lines and just need to know how to connect and where to connect the boost reference fuel psi regulator on the rail?

What fittings are needed and pix are appreciated.

Using a stock ls6 intake and rails.

Help please.

P.s this makes a return style system correct?

 

i just did a bunch of planning on this for myself. ok heres what i did from another member but put my own twist on it but you can get the gist of it.

ok first the stock fuel line on the drivers side has a cap on it that covers the pressure release valve. its a 4AN male end, take the shradder valve out and then it goes somehting like this if you think of it in order. I used 6AN to the return since its just easy instead of getting a bunch of reducers and expanders since most FPRs come with 6an connections.

4An female to 6an male fitting

6an to 6an female coupler
aeromotive 40-90psi boost regulated Fuel pressure regulator (1:1 reference) try to get one with the 1/8 NPT so you can have a fuel pressure gauge on it.


two optinon for lines and fittings
option 1 (more expense due to 15ft of an hose costing about $65)
2 6an fitting to 6an hose
6an hose
6AN Male To 5/16" SAE Quick Disconnect Male Fuel Fitting


option 2 (cheaper but you have less flexability due to hard lines but its about have the cost for 25ft verses only 15ft)
2 Fuel Line Adapter -6an Fem To 3/8" Aluminum PRE-730613BLK
25ft of 3/8" Aluminum Fuel Line Tubing Hose
6AN Male To 5/16" SAE Quick Disconnect Male Fuel Fitting

select one of the stock return ports on the back of the car at the fuel T block near the fiuel filter and plug it with a
Brass Pipe Fitting Hex Head Plug 1/4" NPT Fuel Air Boat

after that, the quick discounect fitting goes into the stock plastic line and thats it.
you now have a true return style fuel system without losing your EVAP system.

 

which did you choose and any pix of your setup?

Why not just use the stock lines from the tank to where it comes up by the engine. Then connect your new lines/fittings right there to the rails and regulator?

 

thats the resaon why this thread comes up. the V8 f-bodys dont have a "true" return syle fuel system. it doesnt come from the rails back to the tank, it goes from a block in the rear by the fuel filter that "returns" some of the fuel back to the tank but its not a true return system. the stock regulator is in the tank. you have to remove it when you do this mod as well.

I went with the hard line setup to make it more stealth and cheaper. it looks closer to stock

 

I rather bring old threads to life then make new pointless ones. There was a question earlier about why not use the stock system...Put the AFPR back by the fuel filter and run a ref line to the back. I am not against following this thread and doing this mods but it seems a lot easier to keep the stock setup, it works fine for stock right? I did see the comment that it is not optimum. I get that but the key is consistency right? I just want to see 1:1 increase, I don't think it would be important that if 62 is what I see right now that it actually is 60 as long as 1 psi equals 61 and 5 equals 65. Would putting the AFPR in the back see the consistancy? I would still have my fuel pressure sensor at fuel rails.

I don't care if you want to burn me for asking, I am looking to understand this whole thing better and don't understand what is wrong with this setup.

FYI my goal is 600 RWTQ

 

Im looking at options also. Even referenced, a reg in the back wont see the loss of pressure happening at the injectors. You could still have 65 at the reg and only 45 at the injectors..