Can it be done? if so, how?

 

Did some researchs and does not appear possible without butchering up the stock rail. I was thinking of adding an adjustable fpr right after the fuel filter. I understand the pulses from the vanes in the pump with cause the guage reading at the fpr to jump back and forth, but I have a guage installed at the fuel rail and can use that for an accurate reading. Anyone with a similiar set up?

 

If you need to add a aftermarket adjustable regulator to the factory rail and are still using the factory feed line then this is the fitting for you.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

I looked at the part, not sure how I would run my type of fpr with that.
I have the inlet, outlet and return style adjustable fpr.

 

The factory fuel rails have 4AN threads on them, so you can defiantly add a return line on them without much effort.

 

Anyone have pix or can explain how to add one to stock rail with stock fuel line feed?
I have a Professional Products POWERFLOW

Designed for use on regular EFI systems requiring one feed line to fuel rails and one return line to the fuel tank. Wrench flats on outlet ports make it easy to install fittings. Adjustable from 25 psi to 75 psi. Bottom port is the bypass back to the fuel tank. Two ports on sides can be either an inlet or outlet. Fuel pressure will rise on a : ratio when referencing boost.
(1) 3/8-NPT Return Port (2) 3/8-NPT Inlet/Outlet Port Flows 200 GPH 25 to 75 PSI Adjustability .437 (7/16") Restriction 1/8-NPT Gauge Port Stainless Steel Bracket Stainless Steel

 

I have the same regulator and ran it off of the schrader valve port with stock rails. I don't know which adapter to use. I just went to a local speed shop and browsed until I found what I needed. I was lucky to have a good machine shop around that carries most fuel line fittings.

 

I have an Edelbrock FPR with -6AN fittings for inlet, outlet, and return. I used a -4an female to -4an female coupler, -6an female to -4an male reducer, and then -6an male to -6an male union. I couldn't find any other combination of fittings to do the job. I can get a pic tonight if you'd like. PM me if you want more info, because this is still fresh on my mind since I did it last week.

 

Gauge- I would like more info on your set up as well.

 

Here are some pics. There's a fitting here that I didn't mention (because it's unnecessary). It's a -4an female to -4an male "manifold" with two 1/8" NPT fuel gauge ports. You can see the fuel pressure sensor standing up off of it. If you deleted this, the female-to-female coupler you see would go directly on the fuel rail.

Let me know if you have any more questions (and thanks for the PM because I would've forgotten otherwise).

 

Do you have any of the fitting # and where dues the line on the bottom of the regulator go and hook? looks good

 

Just realized you were in Richmond too! There are going to be a lot of boosted cars around here. If you finish before me and Im sure you will, would you mind if I come check out your setup and see how you end up mounting the FPR?

 

The line on the bottom of the regulator is the return line going back to the tank. Here are all the fittings you should use for this Edelbrock fuel pressure regulator (PN 1728). This isn't exactly how I did it, but I didn't have all the info I needed when I ordered parts.

1 x Jegs black -4AN swivel coupler (PN 555-110321)
1 x Jegs black -6AN flare plug (PN 555-110302)
1 x Jegs black -6AN to -8AN flare reducer (PN 555-110212)
1 x Jegs black -4AN to -6AN flare reducer (PN 555-110211)
1 x Jegs black -6AN flare union (PN 555-110202)
1 x Jegs black straight max flow hose end -6AN (PN 555-110001)
1 x Jegs black 90* max flow swivel hose end -6AN (PN 555-110021)
1 x Jegs viton O-rings -6AN (10 pack) (PN 555-100182)
1 x Jegs viton O-rings -8AN (10 pack) (PN 555-100183)
1 x Aeromotive -8AN to 3/8" quick disconnect (PN 15118)
1 x Russell -6AN male to 14mm-1.5 O-ring seal (PN 648070)
1 x Jegs -6AN flare cap (PN 555-110312)

These fittings plus 20 feet of 6AN (or 5/16") fuel line from your local auto parts store will get it done for you. The -4AN swivel coupler goes on the end of the rail. The -6AN to -4AN flare reducer will connect the -4AN swivel coupler to the regulator inlet (be sure to use a -6AN viton O-ring on the connection to the regulator). The -6AN flare plug will plug the regulator's outlet (again, use a -6AN O-ring). The -6AN flare union will connect the regulator's return port (on the bottom) to the 90* -6AN hose end. The hose will run to the back of the car all the way up to the top of the tank. On the back end of the hose, you'll use the -6AN straight hose end. The -6AN to -8AN flare reducer will join that hose end to the Aeromotive -8AN to 3/8" quick disconnect, which will plug into the top of the fuel tank. The -6AN cap and Russell -6AN to 14mm-1.5 O-ring seal fittings are used to plug the stock T-block where the stock return line was removed.

Now, you have another option. The above setup will delete not only the hard return line, but also the plastic line that goes from the hard line up to the top of the tank. If I had it to do over again, I would have retained the plastic line and only deleted the hard line. In order to do that, you'll need to ditch the Aeromotive -8AN to 3/8" quick disconnect and the -6AN to -8AN flare reducers and replace them with an Aeromotive 5/16" quick connect male to -6AN male fitting (PN 15103). I know it's not intuitive, but that plastic line going to the top of the tank is a 3/8" female quick disconnect on top (where it connects to the tank) and a 5/16" female quick disconnect on the bottom (where it connects to the hard line).

Since this regulator doesn't have a gauge port for a fuel pressure sensor, you can use this -4AN manifold which has a 1/8" NPT port on it. This will go between the fuel rail and the -4AN swivel coupler (as seen in the pics I posted earlier in this thread). There's a two-port version, which I have, so I had to get a 1/8" NPT plug for the other port.


I'm sorry if this is disorganized, but this is all the information I wish I'd had when I went into this project. I would have saved me time, money, and heartache. It wasn't too bad, though.

 

If i can get it done soon still got alot of parts to get and alot of stuff to figure out.

 

Thank you Guage!

 

yea thanks

 

this looks like a nice alt to having to buy a new rail and ****. im reading this right, it still a return system now

 

Just curious but wouldn't it be easier to just do away with the regulator in the tank, and tie the new regulator in the line already used for the bypass? That way you don't have to run all the new lines and what not even if you extended the lines to relocate it to easier accessible to change the pressure setting. I may be way off just seemed easier

 

need to have the regulator as close to the lines as possible

 

Close to what lines? I am not totally familiar with turbo setups, but with a 255lph in my car and the stock reg I run 61 psi all day long. Now if I were to change the reg out or alter the stock setting I know I could raise or lower the fuel pressure. Why would that not work? Even with a boost related reg all you would have to run to the rear of the car would be a reference line from the intake to it.