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Nylon Fuel line fitting attachment

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Old 07-26-2011 | 08:37 AM
  #21  
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WOW, What a clever solution to the problem. Nothing beats the ingenuity of the American Hot Rodder.
This should be posted as a sticky.

Last edited by Ollie8974; 07-26-2011 at 08:43 AM.
Old 07-26-2011 | 10:16 AM
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This is great. I was going to try to bend and flare a bunch of stainless tubing but this seems way easier and it looks factory. Good write up.
Old 07-26-2011 | 10:11 PM
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I've gotten so much from this site. It was nice to be able to give something back.
Old 08-08-2011 | 12:17 PM
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1936, That was an awesome answer to the question. I was able to use the line from a 90's Caprice, and cut it in the middle to shorten it. I used the compression fittings I purchased from O'Riley's in their help section. The ends of the fuel line matched what I needed so no changes were needed. I was also able to use an OEM style fuel filter by re-using the same connections already existing on the line.
Old 08-09-2011 | 03:59 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 1936 LS1
I've gotten so much from this site. It was nice to be able to give something back.
Dude, this helped MORE then you can possibly imagine.

I was almost going to fork out over $200 in PTFE lines and fittings.
Instead, I'm following your tutorial and doing your method this weekend and saving $100 in parts and $100 for the tool.
I posted it on Nastyz28 as well to help other guys out with your link of course so you get the props.

This is unbeatable.....
You can plumb your entire system for under $100 with NEW OEM lines.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalo...Disconnect.pdf

You get packs of 5 fittings each for $12.99 or 2 for $6.99
I just spoke with Dorman via chat to confirm this is correct.
Any part #'s that end in ".5" like 800-082.5 = Quantity of 5
So Advanced is the best place to get all of these parts with the $20 off $50 coupons.

SOOOOOOLLD!!!!!!

Example $12.99 > DORMAN 800-082.5 3/8 to 3/8 straight QTY = 5

Last edited by Aceshigh; 08-09-2011 at 04:47 PM.
Old 08-10-2011 | 08:17 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Aceshigh
I posted it on Nastyz28 as well to help other guys out with your link of course so you get the props.

Thanks, but if what I'm getting over there is considered "props", I'll pass. Just can't please some people. BTW, the rest of my fittings turned out better than the one I photographed. I guess I should've done another photo session. The "learning curve" is pretty fast with this nylon tubing and mistakes are cheap to correct.

Oh, well. Use it, don't use it. Doesn't matter to me. I work in the oil business and we hydrotest everything. I may try to rig up a test of a piece of tubing with my connections just to silence the naysayers.

I'm betting the tubing blows out or the fitting leaks at the hard pipe before my connection lets go.

Last edited by 1936 LS1; 08-10-2011 at 08:50 AM.
Old 08-10-2011 | 10:41 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 1936 LS1
Thanks, but if what I'm getting over there is considered "props", I'll pass. Just can't please some people.
Don't worry, you can't please everyone like ya said.

There's many that will benefit from this writeup down the line.
Old 08-10-2011 | 11:47 PM
  #28  
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That set up looks like it works decent.
I have the whole kit from Dorman, have to to repair anything plastic lined.
Have to have dorman's tool to spice line to line or put 90 degree fittings on.
Another piece you should add to the fitting after it's crimped on;
800-306
Old 08-11-2011 | 01:26 AM
  #29  
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Why do u have to use the tool for 90's
Old 08-11-2011 | 01:35 AM
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I was doing some research on the history of Nylon lines and it appears Dave Reed from GM
did a Thesis on them in the 60's which led to industry wide usage of them. He retired from GM
in 2008 with several awards for his creativity from the Society of Plastics Engineers.

http://speautomotive.wordpress.com/2...contributions/

Originally Posted by wrencher
Another piece you should add to the fitting after it's crimped on;
800-306
Thanks for the info. I'm ordering those as well now.

Guess it's a good thing I bought the kit.
Wasn't sure about line to line and 90* fittings.

Last edited by Aceshigh; 08-11-2011 at 01:45 AM.
Old 08-12-2011 | 12:35 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ericwilloughby
Why do u have to use the tool for 90's
I'm assuming it's because doing it my way would be difficult to get a straight "push" on the fitting. However, I think a little time spent making a wooden block with a "pocket" for the fitting to sit in would yield good results.

This isn't difficult stuff. The hard part is finding a way to hold both pieces securely while they're pressed together.

I ordered a set of those clamps, btw. Couldn't hurt.
Old 08-12-2011 | 10:59 AM
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Thanks for all the info check this out $7.04 at pull a part off a 96 caddy feed and return it only took 15 minutes to remove it and didn't have to cut it anywhere
Attached Thumbnails Nylon Fuel line fitting attachment-fuel-line_1.jpg  
Old 08-14-2011 | 06:00 PM
  #33  
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Good old fashioned American inginuity, you need something, you make it! Right on! 1936, thats McGyver's kind of work. Use what you got!
Old 08-21-2011 | 07:57 PM
  #34  
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this thread is just what I needed to know.
I might not have understood properly when Aceshigh answered my question in the other thread.
I am sorry if I am repeating myself but I just want to make sure I understand correctly.

I can run a nylon line from the engine to the tank?
My misunderstanding was that I thought I am supposed to keep my steel line and just run the nylon line at the ends.

If I understand correctly I buy some nylon tubing rolls, about 6-10 fittings and I run the nylon feed line from the engine to the filter and from the filter to the tank.
Same thing for the return line, I just run it from the tank to the engine.

No cutting and joining nylon lines to the actual steel fuel pipe right? I can put it in the scrap metal bin yes?
Old 08-23-2011 | 12:53 AM
  #35  
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That's what I did. Just be sure to run it in such a way that it doesn't rub on anything or get close to exhaust. Clamp it in several places to make sure it doesn't move. I also put a length of thick rubber hose over some areas for insurance against rub-through.
Old 08-23-2011 | 02:22 AM
  #36  
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Why are u replacing existing metal line? And is there a reason to not use 3/8 brake line?
Old 08-23-2011 | 12:35 PM
  #37  
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Thanks for replying.
i was going to put rubber hoses for insurance wherever it would rub.

Still not decided to replace the metal line or just modify it. I will choose the easier way, just have to plan ahead for the tools and parts.
I was thinking of replacing the metal line in case it is easier.
Old 08-23-2011 | 01:27 PM
  #38  
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I wouldn't think it was easier and only slightly less expensive. I'd use your existing hard lines wherever possible. On my car, there was no existing system at all and the body was off the chassis, so it was much easier. I still could've run steel line (and even bought the SS tubing to do it) but I came across this method and plumbed the whole system in less time than it would've taken to bend one line.
Old 08-23-2011 | 01:44 PM
  #39  
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Sweet!!! This is awesome. Now I know how I'm going to finish my return line!
Old 08-23-2011 | 04:17 PM
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The existing hard lines usually have lots of 90* bends you can run the nylon without any sharp bends it will flow a lot better I put the caddy lines on my car and did not have to cut and splice anything so I have $7 for the fuel lines and $15 for a new filter you can't beat that and for people that say 3/8 feed is not big enough I have ran deep in the 9's @140 and know quite a few others that have ran the same with 2 bosch pumps pushing through 1 3/8 fuel line and stock 5/16 return


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