Problems with ruel rails
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From: San Antonio, Tx
Problems with ruel rails Ok so I have some decent aluminum rails that I was going to add a FPR to. I ordered some summit brand 3/8 to -6 AN for the end of the rails and went to put them on. Problem they do not screw in more than a turn. I am confused on why that is considering the instructions say that the end of the rail is 3/8 pipe(edelbrock rails).
So my question is are those the right fittings, or is it that the summit stuff is crap? I had another brand 3/8 to -6 AN and it screwed in about 3 turns, which still does not go very far in for my taste. shouldnt they pretty much seat on the rail?
What is everyone using as far as brand and exact size or part?
Also my FPR says to us -6 o-ring style an fiittings. Which do I need to go to a -6?
So my question is are those the right fittings, or is it that the summit stuff is crap? I had another brand 3/8 to -6 AN and it screwed in about 3 turns, which still does not go very far in for my taste. shouldnt they pretty much seat on the rail?
What is everyone using as far as brand and exact size or part?
Also my FPR says to us -6 o-ring style an fiittings. Which do I need to go to a -6?
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Savannah, TN
O ring style is straight threads fittings, pipe is tapered.( i use AN to AN on the straight stuff just put an oring on the regulator. ) They make a fitting for the port to an but it is twice the price. http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%27s/361/981506/10002/-1 is what i use with an o ring. http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/13210K/10002/-1 this is what you are told to use both will work . On the rails i have always welded an AN fitting on the rail but if you dont have a welder that will cause you to have to use the screw fittings an as for the threads you can use a pipe tap to tap the threads deeper in the rails. I have run into this befor it can be fixed with a 3/8 pipe tape and a little time cut the threads and screw it in check for depth tap a little deaper , recheck, when you get it half way in mesurefro the end of the tap to the rail and use that a refrence to do the other 3 ends. when you put sealent on it and screw it untile it gets tight it will seal off. i hope this helped.
It sounds like you have two different kinds of fittings:
NPT - National Pipe Thread, or "pipe thread" - this stuff is an interference-style fit. It gets tighter as you thread the two pieces together. Most of your household plumbing uses this type of connection.
AN - Army/Navy - this stuff threads together consistently from start to finish, and is usually actually sealed with something else, like an O-ring in between the two ends.
I don't think NPT stuff and AN stuff are compatible. If you want to use AN fittings (which is the better route) you want to get a 3/8" NPT to -6AN adapter screwed onto your fuel rails. This will allow you to use your AN hose fittings.
I am guessing your rails are from Speed Inc ?
-Dave
NPT - National Pipe Thread, or "pipe thread" - this stuff is an interference-style fit. It gets tighter as you thread the two pieces together. Most of your household plumbing uses this type of connection.
AN - Army/Navy - this stuff threads together consistently from start to finish, and is usually actually sealed with something else, like an O-ring in between the two ends.
I don't think NPT stuff and AN stuff are compatible. If you want to use AN fittings (which is the better route) you want to get a 3/8" NPT to -6AN adapter screwed onto your fuel rails. This will allow you to use your AN hose fittings.
I am guessing your rails are from Speed Inc ?
-Dave
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11 Second Club
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From: San Antonio, Tx
It sounds like you have two different kinds of fittings:
NPT - National Pipe Thread, or "pipe thread" - this stuff is an interference-style fit. It gets tighter as you thread the two pieces together. Most of your household plumbing uses this type of connection.
AN - Army/Navy - this stuff threads together consistently from start to finish, and is usually actually sealed with something else, like an O-ring in between the two ends.
I don't think NPT stuff and AN stuff are compatible. If you want to use AN fittings (which is the better route) you want to get a 3/8" NPT to -6AN adapter screwed onto your fuel rails. This will allow you to use your AN hose fittings.
I am guessing your rails are from Speed Inc ?
-Dave
NPT - National Pipe Thread, or "pipe thread" - this stuff is an interference-style fit. It gets tighter as you thread the two pieces together. Most of your household plumbing uses this type of connection.
AN - Army/Navy - this stuff threads together consistently from start to finish, and is usually actually sealed with something else, like an O-ring in between the two ends.
I don't think NPT stuff and AN stuff are compatible. If you want to use AN fittings (which is the better route) you want to get a 3/8" NPT to -6AN adapter screwed onto your fuel rails. This will allow you to use your AN hose fittings.
I am guessing your rails are from Speed Inc ?
-Dave
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Savannah, TN
I have the 3/8 ntp to -6 AN style fittings for the ends of the rail like the edelbrock fuel rail instructions call for. The problem is they dont go in. I think I got bad fittings or something. Going to order a better brand and run a tap through the rail ends to ensure the same thing does not happen again.
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11 Second Club
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From: San Antonio, Tx
good luck the issue i have had with those rails is the depth of the threads in the rails. The tap will do wonders rap the rails in a towel are get two peices of wood and put over the jaws of a vice to hold the rails and keep running the tap a little father and re checking . It will work out for you.
8 Second Club
Joined: May 2004
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From: Savannah, TN
Ok just got my new fittings that are a diff brand than summit and wow! They wrk great. Must of been something wrong with the summit brand crap. Any who I did buy a tap and checked the rail but it went in just fine. Used the vise method and there in there nice a deep this time so hopefully it wont leak. Should have the return setup done today. Thanks for the help.
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11 Second Club
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From: San Antonio, Tx
All finished. I did have one leak at rail though. Just took it back off and used Teflon tape but was careful not to make it sloppy and protrude in the fuel system. Worked great. I have one injector o-ring that is missing a chunk out of it so it slightly wet after driving it, but I am getting new ones soon so no big deal.
I'll take some pics tomorrow of how it came out. I used the evap as the return and it was stupid easy. The hard part was making both pumps fit in the bucket. Just need to wire the second pump to come on under boost.
I'll take some pics tomorrow of how it came out. I used the evap as the return and it was stupid easy. The hard part was making both pumps fit in the bucket. Just need to wire the second pump to come on under boost.
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From: San Antonio, Tx
All right here is how it came out. I did not take pictures during the install since I just copied other instructions on here that helped. Might change how it is run, but for now this is how it is.
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From: San Antonio, Tx
At first I had lots of probs, but not anymore. I just tighten the hell out of them. Havent pop at 14psi yet.(knock on wood)
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From: San Antonio, Tx
Man that fpr works great. No more leaning out even with these little injectors at 14psi. I still dont even have the second pump coming on yet. Boost referrenced FPR are deff the way to go on a FI setup. Just wish I did this earlier.
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From: San Antonio, Tx
Is there not enough room to have it right on the rail? I don't know what fitting it is though. EDIT: See below post
Now you can see the last worm gear clamp on my throttle body that would blow off. I've got a t bolt clamp on there now.
Now you can see the last worm gear clamp on my throttle body that would blow off. I've got a t bolt clamp on there now.
Last edited by 98Camarod; Apr 5, 2009 at 07:55 AM.
I'll change the post so we don't have bad info, your right, it does have an o-ring. Either way, that one fitting would be better than having it out 3 in or so.