Fueling & Injection Fuel Pumps | Injectors | Rails | Regulators | Tanks

Need help fuel psi drops under accel!

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Old 04-04-2009, 11:56 AM
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I have an in tank pump, not load at all.
Old 04-04-2009, 12:01 PM
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Heres my current setup:

Fuel cell, with pickup.


Walbro pump and inline filter, you can also see my return line coming back. The lines are securely mounted under the car and is pushloc -6.


From pump to driver side rail


Crosses over to pass rail and exits at rear into stainless braided -6 line


Travels all the way to the aero fpr, right side.


Then exits through the return line on bottom, that is my aero guage which is still reading a pressure from last night, but was 20psi lastnight.


When i had it setup the old way, idle had 60 psi... dont think my guage is broke either. the pump is loud, not sure if its suppose to be. was a new pump.
Old 04-04-2009, 12:35 PM
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if its holding that psi, will it have something to do with the tank venting? i have so many questions sorry.

*EDIT*
I just did a test drive and i got it to idle at 58-60psi before leaving.. it still feels stumbly, and wont do much after 3k.. but stumble off and feel loaded down. i got back in my drive way and did not hear the loud pump that i normally hear. so i killed the ignition while leaving the fuel pump running.. and it gradually winded back up to its normal whine. and the fuel psi at that time was 0psi.... until the pump wound back up. any ideas? voltage maybe?

Last edited by camaroIroc; 04-04-2009 at 02:08 PM.
Old 04-04-2009, 04:47 PM
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If I read this correctly, you have the filter between the tank and pump???
What micron rating is that filter?

Engine running.. what's the volts at the pump?
Where's the pump grounded?
Fuel filter in backwards?
Fuel and return lines crossed at the tank?
Also, it's not recommended to use clamps on pushlock fittings. The pressure can cut the inner liner by pushing it against the barbs on the fitting. It appears you have barb fittings in the pump. You can buy -6 fittings for that pump, and use AN hose ends. MUCH SAFER!
Old 04-04-2009, 05:25 PM
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will do on the fittings. my filter is between the pump and tank... figured i could protect the pump from trash, should i switch it? the pump is frame/body grounded, as well as the motor and battery(frame/body grounded). i will double check the filter direction and what is the recommended micron? i will get those voltages. the lines arent crossed. also, what guage wire do you recommend for wiring the walbro pump? my project has mostly recreated wiring harnesses.. everything else seems to be fine except the fuel system.

Last edited by camaroIroc; 04-04-2009 at 05:35 PM.
Old 04-04-2009, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by camaroIroc
will do on the fittings. my filter is between the pump and tank... figured i could protect the pump from trash, should i switch it? the pump is frame/body grounded, as well as the motor and battery(frame/body grounded). i will double check the filter direction and what is the recommended micron? i will get those voltages. the lines arent crossed. also, what guage wire do you recommend for wiring the walbro pump? my project has mostly recreated wiring harnesses.. everything else seems to be fine except the fuel system.
a prepump filter of at least 40 micron, and a 10 micron before the rails.
I use 10 ga for the pump. 12 will work fine. Pos and neg to be the same size wire. NO cheap crimp terminals.. 30A continous rated relay, with power directly off the alt, fused for 30A. [Unless battery is in the rear.] Then off the engine side of cutoff, thru the fuse, then the relay.
BTW, that rollover vent has to be run outside the body. I use a line and a bulkhead in the trunk floor.
The cell HAS to be grounded , also.
Old 04-04-2009, 05:57 PM
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okay. by cell grounded, do you mean the sender? or the housing itself?

i definentely dont have 10ga on my pump itself, and im not running from alt. by battery is closer to the rear and i went off of it. i have a relay(30a) but its up by the toggle switch. i also have an inline 30amp fuse for circuit protection, its on the power wire for the pump.

schematic: LOL
Old 04-04-2009, 06:34 PM
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Voltage drop test:
With engine off, pump running i got 10.8 volts.
With engine runinng, pump running i got 13.6 volts. Wires must be good....

I also found this, with the engine off. this is probly why it is always running, and whining.
question: new pump?

http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e8...0404091920.flv

Last edited by camaroIroc; 04-04-2009 at 07:11 PM.
Old 04-04-2009, 08:12 PM
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There must be something wrong with the pump or try moving the pump closer to the tank.

I would disconnect the line at the pump and see how the flow looks. If its the same it might be the pump or pick up.
Old 04-04-2009, 08:17 PM
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yea, i will do that tomorrow then. i just got my new o2 on for the passenger side... and what a difference... i can feel 3000rpms and up to 5500.. b4 the o2 it just died out. but yea still gotta fix the fuel problem.
Old 04-04-2009, 08:22 PM
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I would be hesitant to have that external pump that far away and having it suck it through the pickup. From my understanding, the external pumps are supposed to be used on sumped tanks because they push a hell of a lot better than they pull. Looks to me you are asking alot out of it to pull the fuel out of the tank.
Old 04-04-2009, 08:41 PM
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looks like i'll be buying alot of stuff at the autofair tomorrow. i was hoping not to have to change my tank.
Old 04-04-2009, 09:29 PM
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I don't have a setup like yours. I would step back and do some researching about that to find out what is the proper way to do it before you go and blow a wad of cash. You may be able to get by with some simple modifications. The fuel lines and return appear to be correct.

I just never thought it would be ok to sump an external pump. You also have the pump quite a ways away. So its overworking its self. It seems odd that when you started driving it that it went up to 60 psi. Did it stay there since then or what?

I'd say the reason that you were having trouble once you started driving is because you also have to change your tune for the regulator after the rails. Your IFR has to be the same value from the 0 all the way across since you are getting constant pressure. You have to do the same to the offset table. Copy the value in the 0 column to all the other columns.
Old 04-05-2009, 12:07 PM
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i dont know how to access the tables myself. i may need to send my pcm in to my tuner. i can get a good deal on a sumped cell, then i will move my pump closer to the tank as well. i found nothing at the autofair.
Old 04-05-2009, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by camaroIroc
i dont know how to access the tables myself. i may need to send my pcm in to my tuner. i can get a good deal on a sumped cell, then i will move my pump closer to the tank as well. i found nothing at the autofair.
Is your pressure good now or what does it do?

Where your regulator is now, you have to change the tune. Do you know anyone local that can change the tune?
Old 04-05-2009, 04:59 PM
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im near moorseville, i think i should be able to find a tuner. also the psi acts funny, at idle to start with, im at 60 psi... after driving and witnesses the underpower.. and hesitations, i find that it is almost at zero.. but when i stop, i can hear the pump winding back up and the guage slowly creeps back up to 60 psi-where i adjusted it too. my pump still constantly whines, it never ceases once psi is reached.

it runs better than the night b4 last, because i changed my unswitching o2.
Old 04-05-2009, 05:08 PM
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I wouldn't drive it if you don't have to until you get that tune fixed.
Old 04-05-2009, 05:25 PM
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i went with pcmforless, there is a shop in mooresville that i went to a week ago. he adjusted my idle, and found the bad o2... he also mentioned that my fuel pressure was cutting out when in demand... not much help after that, just mentioned maybe upgrading to a sump tank. then he nit picked my project which is not even close to being done. guess it wasnt a shiny *** expensive corvette, you know.

i just want to find out what to replace and get it over with, so i can finally drive the car... then i will be motivated to continue the build.. i.e. paint, suspension. its either the pump, tank, or both. gonna start at the tank, where-as im not impresses with where i located it too.

if my pump is not making any noise after whining, then it must have built pressure. when i came to a complete stop and it idled, it started to whine again and the guage goes 0-60 psi slowly. im so F'n confused and i dont feel that my current option of a tuner will be a smart move, since he doesnt seem to want to touch my car. by the way my tune was a originally a mail order tune.
Old 04-05-2009, 05:45 PM
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Try the local sections and see if anyone on the forum will be able to help you out. It's a pretty simple change for the regulator. They just have to license it if they have hp tuners, or they may already have it licensed depending on the year of the pcm.

With that pump, if its not burnt up, the sumped tank and the pump closer to the tank will be a good step forward.
Old 04-05-2009, 06:27 PM
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im such an idiot..

my filter was clogged, and i think its made for a carb setup.. with the screen out, the pump held psi and cut off like normal. i drove down the street burning tires and my stall felt wonderful. im happy. im gonna upgrade to a high fuel pressure filter...

cant believe i didnt think to check it... it was new soo you know. lmfao


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