chevydriverz28

I'm going to build the Sticky double pumper setup (Great Write-up by the way) for my 96 SS.

Is there any worry damaging/over-working the on rail fuel pressure regulator by running both pumps all the time without a hobbs?

I'm putting this on my Supercharged 383 Stroker with a 10lb pulley. What hobbs switch brand and psi to you recommend?

Each Walbro pump pulls 10.6 Amps per pump sooo according to standards that requires 12 gauge wiring for each pump and 8 gauge if running power for both over one wire. Do you HAVE to run the main power from the + on the Alternator like the Racetronix Hotwire Kit recommends or can I just run it to the + side of the battery and make sure all my connections are top notch.

Last but not least. My stock pump setup is in a bucket. What does the bucket do. The pump intake just sticks throught the bottom of the bucket and pulls from the outside. Does the pump need to stay submerged for overheating purposes?

Thanks in advance,
Brandon

XtremeDime

iTrader: (16)

From what I understand you dont want both pumps to run because they can cause overheating, I know several people that run both full time w/o issue. I would set up the hobbs to kick in at about 7psi as that should be getting the 1st pump over 80%. Im going to be running both my pumps to the battery, Im not sure if the alternator is better or not but I dont see why the battery wouldnt work. The bucket is just there for easy removal of the pump and all the components. The pump tends to overheat if it isnt submerged but just dont let it get below 1/4 tank.

chevydriverz28

Thanks Xtreme Dime! I have a few more questions if you get a chance to look them over. This is my thought process on how to wire it all up. I know I'm on the right track but need someone to fill in a few blanks:

I've done the research. The pumps are gonna run at 10.6 amps each, requiring 8 gauge wiring for the main wiring harness from the battery, I can use two relays mounted under the rear. Plus I'm going to wire in a 7 psi hobbs switch to engage the secondary pump. Check my thinking though because the Sticky doesn't fill in all the blanks. Should I use 12 volts passing through the hobbs switch to engage a seperate relay for the second pump? I just have one question about how a relay works though. Do I just run 12 volts from my positive connection in the engine bay to one side of the hobbs switch, then run the "switched" side wire to the "engage" side of the relay and ground it on the other side. Then running the heavy gauge wiring to the recieving side of the relay and the other to the power of the additional pump. This is where my experience level has left me stumped because I see a BIG problem with my good concept bad design. I need a 12 volt signal to be delivered to the relay, not a relay melting short which is what I feel i just described. So my second idea is to take the factory signal wire, splice into it, run it to the front to the hobbs switch, then back to the second relay and so on.

Can anyone use they're electrical genius to combine my two half baked wire builds into what they should be. If you could draw me an idea i read broken crayon pretty well, lol.

Thanks in advance,
Brandon

code4

iTrader: (30)

Here is how i do some of mine, works perfect.

chevyz2801

iTrader: (20)

where are you guys getting your hobbs switch and whats the best brand?

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Hobbs hands down:

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=HPS-4&eq=&Tp=

+

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...HK-004&eq=&Tp=