Fueling & Injection Fuel Pumps | Injectors | Rails | Regulators | Tanks

Whats needed to make a return system

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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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Default Whats needed to make a return system

I'm having trouble with my fuel rails getting extremely hot. I am thinking about going with a return system.
Do you have to do away with the intank regulator?
Has any one used the sleeve that goes on the filler neck that allows the return line to connect there?
Could you use the vapor line from the tank as a return line?
Basically I don't want to drop the tank to do this or have to replace the pump at this time.
If I do have to drop the tank I'll run a new feed line and use the stock feed line for the return. I will also look at a new pump set up. Whats recommened for pumps? I have the Racetronix plug and play presently
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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Give me a call to discuss.

The correct way is to pull the sender & modify it by removing regulator.

I can get you all components that you need to do this conversion, plus any pump upgrades that you may need.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Ok Thanks. Will call when I'm ready.
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 04:57 PM
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Do you have access to the fuel pump area, such as the trap door mod or something? Doing a return will have to have that access or you would have to drop the tank.

I have the trap door and only had to lower the tank a little to run a new feed line. I converted the stock feed to a return line. Fortunately at the back there is a T that already works as a return to the tank. In running the new feed I kept the old return and removed the stock fuel filter. I cut the end off the small line that connects the T to the filter and welded it so it would cap that part of the connection.

You can then get a 6an to 3/8" hard line compression fitting adapter that you can run the AN line to the stock feed.

If you would like I can give you my parts list that I used to run my system. Line, fittings, filter only cost about $500 (Not including fuel rails) at the time I ordered it. This was using Aeroquip AQP braided line for the feed and aeroquip an fittings, an aeromotive regulator sitting on top of the stock feed line as part of the return, and a few adapters for the stock fuel bucket outlet.

If you already have aftermarket fuel rails then you should be ok there. I bought the Edelbrock ones and regretted it. I had to do some fabrication to mount them to the intake manifold since they don't come with the right mounts for the stock style intakes.

I did have to pull the fuel bucket to remove the stock regulator since the Aeromotive unit up front takes care of it much better.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 05:54 AM
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Let's talk more about the actual problem vs. Unnecessary upgrades.. rails too hot? What is the symptom? Think something is going on different with your car vs everyone else with a 255 pump? Sensitive skin??
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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The rails are getting heat soaked. They get really hot. Since they are now alum. they seem more sensitive to the engine compartment heat. The headers are not ceramic coated any more and my be causing the rails to heat soak. I don't have a cross over between the rails and each rail is fed from a y off the stock feed line. The ends of each rail dead head. Pass side to a fuel solenoid, the drivers to a fuel press. sending unit. I have the parts to make the cross over. I'll try doing it first.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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Aster the parts list for the tank side would be cool. MM the sympton is that the car misses at low speeds and steady state cruising. It's like the car loads up and when you give it more throttle the miss goes away. You would have to ride in it to get a better idea. We think the fuel is turning to vapor in the rail due to the heat. Think back to the old carb days with vapor lock. When we give it more gas the rail fills back up with fresh fuel and the problem goes away. Its gotten better now that the air temps have dropped. The cross over may solve it.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 04:25 PM
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Well...the problem with going back to the old carb days is that they were run a MUCH lower pressure than the ~58 psi at the rails on these cars. The pressure should help keep the fuel from boiling...

You also need to think about returning hot fuel back to the tank with the regulator/return line up front - raising fuel temps in the tank will lead to more evaporative emissions, and if it gets too hot, your fuel pump will be hating life. I haven't had any issues so far with mine, but it is definitely something to think about.
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