Dual pumps wiring Picture added... like this correct?
09-09-2011, 07:44 AM
#1
Dual pumps wiring Picture added... like this correct? I plan on running a dual pump setup and do it myself. I'm going to run a power wire from the battery to a relay. Then go to the second pump. To trigger the relay, I'll tap into the factory power that goes to the main pump and run it to the secondary pumps relay. Both pumps will run all the time but that's ok with me since I will be FI. My only concern is the wiring In the tank it's self. It makes me neverous that the only thing protecting the wire connections will be heat shrink. I don't want gasoline to eat the heat shrink then b exposed to bare wiring in the tank. Am I worrying about nothing?
Last edited by allout06; 09-09-2011 at 05:49 PM.
09-11-2011, 11:03 AM
#5
I wouldnt run whats drawn in the diagram, but it will run
Instead of tapping the OEM pump wiring, tap the dk grn/wht PCM trigger wire for the relay
Next, dont tie the grounds together for the pumps. OEM wiring is enough for one pump, but severely underrated for double the current of two. Run an external ground tied to the chassis. If you're worried about a good connection, use two rings
Your intank splices can be done with common heat shrink. I too worried over this and spent quite some time researching fuel safe heat shrink. Turns out the cheapo dorman colored shrink is PVC (fuel safe) and cheapo harbor freight bulk stuff is polyolefin (also fuel safe)
Instead of tapping the OEM pump wiring, tap the dk grn/wht PCM trigger wire for the relay
Next, dont tie the grounds together for the pumps. OEM wiring is enough for one pump, but severely underrated for double the current of two. Run an external ground tied to the chassis. If you're worried about a good connection, use two rings
Your intank splices can be done with common heat shrink. I too worried over this and spent quite some time researching fuel safe heat shrink. Turns out the cheapo dorman colored shrink is PVC (fuel safe) and cheapo harbor freight bulk stuff is polyolefin (also fuel safe)
09-11-2011, 02:14 PM
#6
I wouldnt run whats drawn in the diagram, but it will run
Instead of tapping the OEM pump wiring, tap the dk grn/wht PCM trigger wire for the relay
Is this all in the same harness that goes to the factory pump?
Next, dont tie the grounds together for the pumps. OEM wiring is enough for one pump, but severely underrated for double the current of two. Run an external ground tied to the chassis.
So come off the second pump with its own ground wire?
If you're worried about a good connection, use two rings
Your intank splices can be done with common heat shrink. I too worried over this and spent quite some time researching fuel safe heat shrink. Turns out the cheapo dorman colored shrink is PVC (fuel safe) and cheapo harbor freight bulk stuff is polyolefin (also fuel safe)
Instead of tapping the OEM pump wiring, tap the dk grn/wht PCM trigger wire for the relay
Is this all in the same harness that goes to the factory pump?
Next, dont tie the grounds together for the pumps. OEM wiring is enough for one pump, but severely underrated for double the current of two. Run an external ground tied to the chassis.
So come off the second pump with its own ground wire?
If you're worried about a good connection, use two rings
Your intank splices can be done with common heat shrink. I too worried over this and spent quite some time researching fuel safe heat shrink. Turns out the cheapo dorman colored shrink is PVC (fuel safe) and cheapo harbor freight bulk stuff is polyolefin (also fuel safe)
thanks for the help. Will a Y-block fit in the stock bucket? Ive heard no and yes. I was just gonna use a T-Fitting...
09-11-2011, 02:21 PM
#7
I also used t-fitting but i ran one pump to the oem harness with hotwire kit. For the second pump i used a painless wiring fuel pump relay along with a hobbs switch for activation
