Racetronix Hot Wire - Best way to feed wire to fuel pump w/ trap door
02-21-2014, 12:15 AM
#21
Teching In
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Orlando
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
racetronix hot wire kit I'm planning on doing this soon also. Just had my car dyno'd for the first time since my lt4 swap and fuel pump wasnt keeping up. Ha, its original as far as i know. So the racetronix kit is the one to get? How much harder is it really to drop the tank vs cut window? The cutting has me worried.
good quality kit btw 
02-22-2014, 12:27 AM
#24
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NearHouston, TX
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm planning on doing this soon also. Just had my car dyno'd for the first time since my lt4 swap and fuel pump wasnt keeping up. Ha, its original as far as i know. So the racetronix kit is the one to get? How much harder is it really to drop the tank vs cut window? The cutting has me worried.
02-23-2014, 10:20 PM
#25
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NearHouston, TX
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did the entire Racetronix fuel pump and live wire assy mod today. I let Ractronix know that I wasn't happy with the live wire assy, it mounts the relay near the gas tank in the back wheel wells. I'm old school and just like everything neat under the hood near fuse and relay boxes. But they did the research and they made the rules for their pumps, I'm just playing by them.
So install: As I noted earlier, I already had a section cut out above fuel pump - I mentioned that I cut too much due to watching an old youtube clip, no worries if you do it, I just patched it bigger as seen in pics. Once I got the pump out, I just went step by step by step in the Racetronix instructions, it went fast. the Harness - different story. I did mine a little different. Some mount their fuse down right next to Alternator - no way I'm doing that. I repair med equip for a living and I just like things neat, labelled and easy access. I mounted fuse near relay box and labeled. I put the front on ramps, worked my way down. Got mid way and turned car around and put rear wheels up on ramps, finished it.
STARTED FIRST CRANK! yep, I was a happy modder. What freaked me out about the 'in tank' pump that I did not know - it is openly submersed in Gasoline, wires, contacts, etc. I'm thinking that this thing is going to catch on fire!!! lol. Here is the deal: The 12volt wires are crimped and are in constant contact with gasoline! yep. One google search and I learn that it is designed to work that way - there is not enough oxygen to cause it to ingite, burn or explode. I also saw a post by a rally racer that had arc burns on his contacts - submersed in a gasoline tank!!! No hollywood explosion, no burning gas tank. Yes weird, but we learn something new every day!
got LUCKY! I ran the harness through the extra area I cutout by mistake - well that mistake actually turned out to be a plus. I only loosed 1 gas tank bolt nearest where the relay will mount. You can pull down the tank a bit, it won't fall down since it is strapped. you only need a hair more room to wiggle the plugs through the straight line gap between tank and carriage. And the fuel pump booster is accesible and placed neatly for anyone in future that owns car and wants to access that. I'm not a mechanic, I'm a med equip guy that mods stuff everyday, I got it to work, customer (me) is happy.
Noticed a problem! the fuel gauge sensor is an electrical dial, very basic using the float sensor and the electrical contacts are hair thin, they were broken, I saw them hanging on. It makes sense now, sometimes I would see my gas gauge surging up and down! I recommend ordering and replacing it while you do this mod. I removed broken hair wires, and bent the pieces in, this corrected the gap in the reading, or basically allowed for an electrically sensing by using the meat of the sensor instead of it's wires. I know is vague, pull it out and you will see it. I cleaned the entire dial place with a qtip and it took off some black stuff, now the tank sensor doesn't surge, but I may order and replace anyway!
I used a high quality silicon to put another bead down for my aluminum panel to sit on, then used metal tapping screws. There are 2 places that I saw needed shorter screws, I found 2 in my stash, marked the locations for future reference. Note: have a vacuum ready for anything can can slip into gas tank. I put a music cd jewel case over hole in tank while it was open - fit nice. PM me if you have any questions.
Note: Ebay has the GM style gas level sensors (GM p/n. 25316321) made by a third party (Herko) for $14.00 free shipping. the GM part is $78 and up. I will try the Herko part, if it doesn't work - its $14 bucks lol. My stocker does work better now that removed the broken wire sensors and bent it in, but for $14 I will try a new one
So install: As I noted earlier, I already had a section cut out above fuel pump - I mentioned that I cut too much due to watching an old youtube clip, no worries if you do it, I just patched it bigger as seen in pics. Once I got the pump out, I just went step by step by step in the Racetronix instructions, it went fast. the Harness - different story. I did mine a little different. Some mount their fuse down right next to Alternator - no way I'm doing that. I repair med equip for a living and I just like things neat, labelled and easy access. I mounted fuse near relay box and labeled. I put the front on ramps, worked my way down. Got mid way and turned car around and put rear wheels up on ramps, finished it.
STARTED FIRST CRANK! yep, I was a happy modder. What freaked me out about the 'in tank' pump that I did not know - it is openly submersed in Gasoline, wires, contacts, etc. I'm thinking that this thing is going to catch on fire!!! lol. Here is the deal: The 12volt wires are crimped and are in constant contact with gasoline! yep. One google search and I learn that it is designed to work that way - there is not enough oxygen to cause it to ingite, burn or explode. I also saw a post by a rally racer that had arc burns on his contacts - submersed in a gasoline tank!!! No hollywood explosion, no burning gas tank. Yes weird, but we learn something new every day!
got LUCKY! I ran the harness through the extra area I cutout by mistake - well that mistake actually turned out to be a plus. I only loosed 1 gas tank bolt nearest where the relay will mount. You can pull down the tank a bit, it won't fall down since it is strapped. you only need a hair more room to wiggle the plugs through the straight line gap between tank and carriage. And the fuel pump booster is accesible and placed neatly for anyone in future that owns car and wants to access that. I'm not a mechanic, I'm a med equip guy that mods stuff everyday, I got it to work, customer (me) is happy.
Noticed a problem! the fuel gauge sensor is an electrical dial, very basic using the float sensor and the electrical contacts are hair thin, they were broken, I saw them hanging on. It makes sense now, sometimes I would see my gas gauge surging up and down! I recommend ordering and replacing it while you do this mod. I removed broken hair wires, and bent the pieces in, this corrected the gap in the reading, or basically allowed for an electrically sensing by using the meat of the sensor instead of it's wires. I know is vague, pull it out and you will see it. I cleaned the entire dial place with a qtip and it took off some black stuff, now the tank sensor doesn't surge, but I may order and replace anyway!
I used a high quality silicon to put another bead down for my aluminum panel to sit on, then used metal tapping screws. There are 2 places that I saw needed shorter screws, I found 2 in my stash, marked the locations for future reference. Note: have a vacuum ready for anything can can slip into gas tank. I put a music cd jewel case over hole in tank while it was open - fit nice. PM me if you have any questions.
Note: Ebay has the GM style gas level sensors (GM p/n. 25316321) made by a third party (Herko) for $14.00 free shipping. the GM part is $78 and up. I will try the Herko part, if it doesn't work - its $14 bucks lol. My stocker does work better now that removed the broken wire sensors and bent it in, but for $14 I will try a new one
Last edited by RJDio; 02-23-2014 at 11:13 PM.
12-17-2016, 07:51 PM
#26
I cut the trapdoor a few days ago. I took the tank straps loose a bit to let the tank down a little and did my cutting with an angle grinder and cut off wheel. I'm supporting the cover with some 1/8"x1" AL that I pop riveted to the car.
I did the pump and hotwire kit install today. Pump went assembly went well and I installed it back in the tank via trap door. Instructions to replace the pump were very good. The pump kit itself is great and the hotwire kit is great. The hotwire kit could use some instructions though, sure I figured it out along with many other folks. But access to a few detail would be great. I even registered for the Racetronix forum yesterday and still haven't been approved. Little late now. My car fired up and runs great. I'm very happy with the pump and kit.
Then I went to run the hotwire kit only to discover that I had to replace the connector on top of the pump assembly along with the upgraded pump wires. After I figured that out things went pretty smooth.
I was wondering why I ended up with two packs of "silicone lubricant". Nowhere in the instructions, videos or write ups have I come across anything saying to apply this stuff "here".
I did the pump and hotwire kit install today. Pump went assembly went well and I installed it back in the tank via trap door. Instructions to replace the pump were very good. The pump kit itself is great and the hotwire kit is great. The hotwire kit could use some instructions though, sure I figured it out along with many other folks. But access to a few detail would be great. I even registered for the Racetronix forum yesterday and still haven't been approved. Little late now. My car fired up and runs great. I'm very happy with the pump and kit.
Then I went to run the hotwire kit only to discover that I had to replace the connector on top of the pump assembly along with the upgraded pump wires. After I figured that out things went pretty smooth.
I was wondering why I ended up with two packs of "silicone lubricant". Nowhere in the instructions, videos or write ups have I come across anything saying to apply this stuff "here".
